My latest creation.
This is the back of the first cut. I had tried on my mother in laws dress with the same cut, and thought to do no mockup. Oh, the shame.
The back was well cut to start but what the hell is up with that front? Grainline was completely wonkey, and was missing about three inches to get coverage, and that wasn't leaving any room for overlap for something like, say, a CLOSURE. Bah.
The slashes were carefully taped into a more grain correct position for this lovely shot. did I mention that i love painters tape? No? I love painters tape. Those gaps were noted for a re cut of the underlining/ mockup. Good seamstress finally gets a cookie.
The second cut is looking better. Still not wool- worthy. The darts needed to be manipulated, and there was still gaping at the sideseam, leaving wiggles all around the back and side waist.
Armscyes were determined by trying to pin myself in and ripping the fragile underlining fabric. Hey, at least I know it's correct in location.
This is the little pinch taken out to bring the back in closer and remove some of the wiggles. Time for a re- cut!
The re cut is below, showing in the underlining of cotton sateen sheeting. The original and hopeful pattern of underlined wool lays atop to illustrate the necessity of mockups. It's sorta mocking me by being all Too Small. Please note that i also include some under lap for a closure. The excitement!
This is the comparison of the armscye of the new cut number three. She has room captain!
Cut number three is a cut above! Two cuts above the first one literally too. I'm trying it on with hoops, to make myself feel better about the overall image. I'm not sure how making my hips looks bigger is the solution, but I'm trying it out.
This is the finished product sans hoops. This gown was labored over lovingly by the seamstress and one stray over sized mouse with a lactose intolerance. That same mouse also picked out the antique brass looking buttons out of a one gallon jug he picked out for me for that purpose. The mouse also likes thrift shopping and reading to his sweetie in the car. Like I say, he's an oversize mouse.
With the hoops this is quite a lovely effect.
This is where the seamstress realizes she got a little over excited with the piping. You don't need to pipe the coat sleeve seams apparently. Crash course in Civil War still seems to be going well.
I used a new sewing procedure to put in the hooks and eyes. I need a little more room on the hook side, maybe a half an inch. But damn, it lays so nicely! The darts should be re worked to get rid of the ripples. And I really need to get a waistband in there.
I need to re- gauge the skirt because the pleats are uneven. Also, the weight of the skirts (3 and 1/2 yards of 60") lengthened the bodice by about 3/4". Now I get the pleasure of re- basting the piping and facing on the waist! Yippie. In similar form the skirt also grew. The up close shot reveals that somehow I managed the fantastically difficult skill of spilling on my own upper arm, though the one on my bust line shouldn't surprise anyone. I'll probably wash it in the cold water and hang to dry before I attempt to measure the required distances.
I had a lovely time meeting up with the unit my in laws play with. They are a fun loving bunch, with such a good sense of humor. Always on the lookout for more boys to hold out guns they asked if my husband was planning on joining. I'll see to it that the mouse has some pants and a shirt that will suit, but I'm not waiting around for miracles either. They were a generous lot, and very hospitable. It makes me want to cook over a fire like at An Tir.