Oct 23, 2005 14:33
23 October 2005
Willamette University
Salem, Oregon
I spent too much time in Portland (Powell's) and only got as far as Salem Friday night. While getting my bearings and looking for a shower I noticed that the campus was overrun by dressed-up high school kids using words like "Aff", "Neg", "Warrants", "Case" etc. I realize that I've stumbled onto a debate tournament and search out the the coaches lounge to offer my services as a qualified judge. I camp next to the football field Friday night and spend all of Saturday judging very intelligent and high-strung teenagers. I make about $40, not much, but almost 4x my daily budget. Plus the judges lounge is loaded with deli-trays and other snacks. A good day.
Seattle (the second time)
12 Oct 2005
As I wrote earlier, I attended the final dress rehearsal of Seattle Opera's newest show: "The End of the Affair". Afterwords the the Fun House, a dive bar across the street from the seattle Center, to see a band Amanda was playing in. Amanda is a beautiful girl and old soul who gave me a book months ago at Allegro Coffee in the U-District. Improvisational Dissonance Noise is probably best way to describe the music. A drummer, Amanda on keyboard and two guitarists who spend most of the set crouched in front of their amps, backs to the audience. Amanda and I talk, two more bands play and I leave for the ferry to Bremerton. After a few miles I arrive at the ferry terminal just as the last ferry of the night is leaving. A State Patrol officer tells of an all-night coffee shop a few blocks away that I can wait at until the next ferry leaves.
Just down the street three drunks find me and decide to show me the ropes in Seattle. I can stay with them at detox! I just have to get some beer in me so I can blow positive for alcohol. Though tempting, I can't in good-conscience take a man's last beer just for a story. Especially after they scrounge their last $2.75 to buy a little bit of crack. Besides, the arc of Opera to Rock show to detox isn't very satisfying. Maybe some other time. I leave despite their protests and try to find the cafe.
The cafe doesn't seem to exist. None of the security guards or crack addicts--the only people in that part of Seattle at 3am--know what I'm talking about. So I slowly make my way back up to Bell-Town where I know the five point cafe is open 24/7. Tired and sore, I sit down and get one cup before the coffee maker breaks. The crowd is sparse and the waitress, Crystal, has also been up for almost 24 hours. With weak, microwaved coffee and an egg sandwich in my belly I study my atlas for awhile and try to stay awake.
As dawn approaches and the city starts to wake, I walk back down to the ferry, stopping at the Green Tortoise Hostel for a $3 shower and an orange. Clean and getting my second wind I pay my $6.10 for the ferry to Bremerton and get a about 20 minutes of sleep before being woken up by a ferry-worker.
Bremerton is a weird little town. Not unfriendly, but everyone walks around with a strange fear in their eyes. I leave quickly for Port Angeles and end up in Silverdale by 1pm. No one is picking me up though and my feet hurt and I've had 20 minutes of sleep in the last 32 hours. I walk down into town and sleep against a tree in the park for a few hours.
Waking about 5pm, I meet Jonathan, a 40ish man wearing dirty denim and reeking of earth and a thousand stale cigarettes. But he has kind eyes and is hunting for agates with his girlfriend on the beach. They live under a bridge and he tells me of a park I can camp in. "Up Silverdale Way about a mile", he says.
3 miles uphill later I find the spot and set up camp before walking down to a strip mall to get online at a gaming center. Fighting sleep I walk back to my camp and collapse into my hammock about midnight.
Next: Port Angeles and Neah Bay.