Chanel Sheer Illuminating Fluid vs... Rimmel Colour Mousse Eye Shadow in 005 Glitz & 006 Get Fresh!
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(Картинки взяты с официальных сайтов. Образцы указанных оттенков теней (я имею в виду, конечно, не тот цвет, что на картинке) можно посмотреть по кликабельной второй картинке - они переданы достоверно).
Неожиданное сравнение, правда?
И недостаточно корректное, наверное, но объединяет эти продукты одна идея: использование их для проставления бликов на лице жидким/кремовым средством, идущим под тональником. Первый продукт именно для этого и предназначен, а второй - притянут за уши в силу некоторого сходства результата.
Жидких бликующих средств, в отличие от пудр, у нас не так уж и много, а точнее - почти нет здесь, у нас, хотя эффект их мне нравится, пожалуй, больше пудровых, поскольку их можно положить точнее, и они не мигрируют по лицу в течение дня, в отличие от пудровых хайлайтеров, т.е. лежат там, куда их положишь.
Оба сравниваемых средства довольно легко размазываются по коже, но шанель - легче, потому что она по консистенции является густой жидкостью, в то время как риммель - как явствует из названия, - мусс. Густой мусс. Но у шанели при этом получается равномерный благородный теплый глянец, а у риммеля - холодный металлический фрост с отдельными мерцалочками, и бойтесь переборщить с ним! Набирать его нужно самую малость - четверть спичечной головки на зону скул, например! Впитываются и подсыхают они примерно с одинаковой скоростью, то есть работать нужно быстро. Отдельно лежащий размазаный продукт дает пятно, если смотреть под углом 45 градусов. Заметнее всего это пятно - от риммеля 005 Glitz. Далее следуют шанель и риммель 006. Но не нужно забывать, что сверху пятна будут обработаны кистью с тональником, что сильно сгладит как собственно пятна, так и переходы к просто коже! Кстати, холод риммеля тоже погасится тональником. Я тональник стиплила, по обыкновению, и какие результаты получатся при других способах нанесения - не знаю. Так вот, если блик нанести на скулы и на спинку носа, не захватывая его кончик, ну и чуть - на "лук Купидона", а потом обработать тональным, начиная с неблестящих участков лица (т.е. со всех остальных), чтобы не перенести глянец на ненужные участки, то получим красиво подчеркнутые и незапудренные (это может быть важно для сухой кожи) выпуклые фрагменты костной лицевой структуры. Резких границ, которые случаются при нанесении пудровых шиммеров на скулы, тут не получится, и, повторюсь, жидкий шиммер не сползет вниз по щеке, как это случается с пудровыми, поскольку он намертво прилипает к коже (при условии, что сам тональник не мигрирует, конечно!). А если и сползет, то не так быстро и не так явно. Скулы при этом красиво выделяются под тональником, в случае с риммелем - с присовокуплением мелких блесточек - явление, которое описывают дурацкой метафорой "свечение изнутри" (Уэйн тоже на эту тему высказался, кстати). И хорошо, если при этом отсутствуют "лапки" вокруг глаз - будь то от молодости или хотя бы ботокса/диспорта.
Теперь сравним цены: шанель - точно не помню, но я ее брала примерно за $70, в то время как риммель у нас распродается чуть больше чем по $5. При более или менее сопоставимом эффекте разница ощутима для тех, кому нравится пользоваться жидкими бликующими продуктами или хочется их попробовать.
В тему хочу процитировать статьи о том, что стоит и чего не стоит делать с блестелками:
6 MAKEUP SHIMMER DO’S
February 16, 2008
In the article published on January 18, 2008, entitled 10 Wrong Ways to Use Shimmer in Makeup, … well, I made it sound as though there was noright way to use shimmer in makeup.
Not true. Shiny products have the ability to bring out the best (as well as the worst). It only takes a little caution and a lot of restraint. As pretty as the shiny stuff looks in the container, or on your hand, or on 17-year old skin, women of our age need to learn exactly how to add iridescence to our faces.
Luckily, today’s technology can create particles of shimmer that are so finely ground that the effect is more illuminating than frosty. Still, as you’ll see below, I find it difficult to find the perfect sheer highlighting product. I always favor lotions because powders are much harder to control and can not be applied with as much precision.
Choose NOT MORE than 2 of the following
1. A small area of shimmer on the center of the upper eyelid, near the eyelashes, blended with a neutral matte eye shadow over the entire lid is a look that works. It will add some nice depth and interest to the eye in a very subtle way.
2. A tiny area of pale shimmer cream at the very inner corner of the eye can have a youthful glow, the way light hits a child’s face. I apply it with a cotton swab. At the inner corner of the eye, you can extend the product very slightly up along the inner rim of the upper lid, but do not extend it along the lower lid or you’ll highlight any creasing there. Pearl or oyster white or pale gold works well.
3. In a circle that begins on the round part of the cheek and is carried back and up toward the ear and temple, a little shimmer is attractive. Do not allow it near the entire area under the eye where the skin creases. Also, do not drag it down low on the cheek. Keep it along the apple of the cheek and along the top edge of the cheekbone.
4. Along the top of the collarbones (this one can be combined with any of the other suggestions), shimmer can be pretty when coordinated the same product high on the cheeks.
5. In a pale lip gloss, better worn either on its own or over a neutral lipstick, and with no shimmer elsewhere on the face, this is an understated way to enhance the mouth. Do not wear this with colorful lipstick since sparkle with strong color is theatrical. For women with thin lips, a light shimmery gloss can make the lips a little more prominent in a tasteful way. You can blur the real edge of the lip line so the lips appear a little more generous.
6. Just above the bow of the upper lip, in the little valley near the lipline, just a small spot of shimmer is subtle and very attractive.
The best illuminators
Now, here comes the really tricky part : finding a good product. You would think, with the beautiful effects they can create these days and the flood of shiny product out there, that it would be easy to find a great highlighting product. I think it’s quite challenging.
I’m presently using Paula’s Sheer Shimmer Illuminating Liquid in Bronze and Opal. I have both and they are just fine. The Opal is one of the few good off-white shimmer products out there. Both colors are very sheer and will not add significant color. You will look a little ‘enlightened’, never a bad thing. They are in the clearance section so I assume the product is being discontinued. At $5.48, you will not beat this deal. I hope something newer and better is on its way.
Clinique Uplighting Liquid Illuminator is more like a sheer blush. This is not a bad product, but more neutral colors are needed to use it in the various areas of the face listed above.
Kevyn Aucoin White Liquid Shimmer has one of the few sheer white highlighters. A sheer white is the best for the inner corner of the eye and the bow of the lip, though it can be a little too bright on the cheeks.
It causes me pain to tell you that I have not personally seen Kevyn’s makeup. I hope to rectify that situation soon. I cannot imagine that it would be anything less than superb. I think it looks spectacular online. His sense of color was undeniably inspired.
It is not reviewed in Paula’s Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me, nor is it in Beautypedia.com. I am not sure why it was excluded. So Paula, if you read this, please tell us why you didn’t review this most interesting and promising line. I am aching to own some of it. Check out the colors of any of the products. It’s not a huge line but it doesn’t need to be, and the colors are fantastic.
MAC makes Cream Color Base . It works pretty well. It is a cream in a compact and easy to blend. Hush, Pearl, Luna, and Shell are decent pale colours to give a glow to the area they’re applied. I prefer this consistency to powder of any sort, but its creaminess prevents it from drying as well as the liquid products. It can move from where it was applied, it can migrate into creases, and it does not last well around eyes or mouth.
10 WRONG WAYS TO USE SHIMMER IN MAKEUP
January 18, 2008
Shimmer in products is one of the top 3 beauty mistakes that women make. It’s not entirely our fault, since over half of what’s out there has a shimmer in it. It sure looks nicer in the container that the flat matte choice does. Once it’s on your face, it can make your worst feature the focal point of your face. It looks terrible under fluorescent (office) or natural (outside) lighting.
After age 35, you can certainly use shiny stuff to your advantage but you have to be very careful about placement. Applying sparkle to any area will bring it out, so if the skin on some areas of your face is not as tight as it once was, applying shine to it will only serve to emphasize it.
The basis of your makeup products should be matte or satin. The idea is to bring out bone structure, to define features so they’re a little more noticeable, and to look a little more awake and energized. To achieve this, you need believable colors, blended softly so that they diffuse into your skin and your facial contours.
What to avoid in your everyday makeup essentials
1. If it‘s an eye or lip product called shimmer, frost, or pearl, leave it behind. No gold or silver either. Satin finish is as sparkly as we need to get .You can add the shimmer stuff later, by putting it only in certain places. These days, it’s hard to find products that aren’t shiny and part of this exercise is to force your eye to notice matte colors.
Shiny eyeshadow and frosted lipstick will only draw attention to every line and crease in your eyelids or around your mouth. Sparkle along with strong color is particularly unattractive. One of my least favorite looks is brownish-grey frosted lipstick. On whom does this look good?
One eyeshadow tradition that I’d like to see done away with is the ‘pale shiny eyeshadow just under the eyebrow’ look. A light color does go here, but the idea that it should be shiny ‘to lift the eye’ is old-fashioned. It’s an 80’s leftover. It looks hard and obvious. Use a pale matte eyeshadow or the light concealer.
2. If you mix shimmer into your foundation, you will look metallic. A face that is entirely iridescent is too artificial. If the shine continues onto the skin of the neck, chest, and arms, as a summer evening look, it can work but remember that applying shine to imperfect skin only accentuates the defect. This look is too contrived for women of our age.
There are concealers and foundations these days made with ‘light reflective particles to blur minor flaws’, or some such promise. If the shimmer particles are incredibly fine, it can leave the area looking moist rather than glittery, but you need to be very cautious about which product you buy and whether this look is good on you. It is usually made for a 20 yr old face.
3. Sparkly blush means a sparkly circle on your cheek. It’s weird and distracting. In some products, there is only a small amount of shimmer and it’s fine so you can get away with it, but again, be discriminating about what you buy.
4. Bronzer - same comments as Blush, but now it’s on your whole face. In daylight, it can make you look a bit like a robot.
5. Face powder - same comments as for Bronzer. Most pressed powders are nicely matte. Some loose powders have sparkle. Be careful.
6. Eyeliner is a more strongly pigmented product. Add some sparkle to it, and now it looks metallic. There is an association between metallic and hard. You also draw attention to the areas where your skin shows signs of age first.
Using a liner pencil with a little shimmer and going over it with a matte shadow to make the line soft can work, but liner is one of the few products left that you can easily find in a matte version so save yourself some work and just buy a matte pencil from the start.
7. Avoid shimmer down the center line of the face. On forehead, nose, chin, and just beside the nose, shimmer just looks like oily skin. It can be good down the bridge of the nose to make it look straighter, but too much shine or getting it too near the tip of the nose looks like you need to blot. Use a light concealer instead, the same one you use under your eyes, down the bridge of the nose.
8. On the outside half of the eye, color should be matte. This allows the inner corner of the eye to look a little shinier by contrast, and that does look nice on all of us. It imparts a definite youthfulness.
9. Never allow a glistening product near the area under the eye, on the whole crescent under the eye. It will put the accent where you least need it. If you use a cream shimmer on your cheeks, do not allow it to extend above the cheekbone or anywhere that the skin creases.
10. Use cream shimmer only. Powders are harder to control and if there’s a wayward fleck of glitter that gets away, it’s the only thing people will see all day.
The follow-up to this article will appear soon and will be linked here when it does. It is entitled 5 MAKEUP SHIMMER DO’S. Who knew it was so complicated?