My Mad Quest to Make a Perfect Season 16/17 Scarf: Duplicate Half
After knitting the Original Half, it’s time to switch to the Duplicate Half. The join where the two meet I’ll explain in my post for Join 4, but first I’d like to explain the differences in the base pattern between the two.
The row count for the duplicate is nearly the same as the Season 13 iteration of the Original Scarf. The red bars on the pattern signify the panels where the row count differs. However the duplicate scarf is narrower than the original, knit to be 60 stitches wide rather than 66.
The Duplicate scarf was made with similar, but subtly different colors. While the green, grey, and brown are almost exact, the yellow is brighter, the purple is brighter and lighter, the red is darker, and the tan is less saturated. This picture is the best screenshot I've found that shows the color difference, particularly in the yellow.
Due to this, while I continued to use the same yarn for the green, grey, and brown sections, for the others I switched:
Red: Hobby Lobby “I Love This Wool” - 170 (Terra Cotta)
Purple: Paton’s Classic Wool Merino - Plum Heather [heathered, not perfect]
Tan: Paton’s Classic Wool Merino - Sesame [an older lot, new ones are too saturated]
Yellow: Plymouth Galway Worsted - 60 (Golden Yellow)
As you can see, most of those yarns are fairly heavy worsted weight, which led to a problem with the next change: That this scarf was knit with even smaller needles than the Original. Small enough to make 60 stitches = 9 to 9.5 inches wide, or about 6.5 stitches per inch. For most people, including myself, that means US size 4 (3.5 mm width) needles.
The problem is that worsted weight yarn is really meant for a US size 7 (4.5 mm width) needles, and knitting with the Size 4, while not impossible, makes the resulting knitwork very tight and not drape as well. Also, the heavier worsted yarn doesn’t match as well with the other, lighter worsted yarns from the previous colors.
Still, these problems can be lessened by blocking and stretching the scarf.
Unlike the Original Half, on this half of the scarf one should knit all stitches in each row, rather than slipping the last stitch. Along with this, one shouldn’t knit any stitches of the previous color in the next row during color changes.
The problem I ran into with this is that this interrupts the method of weaving in the yarn ends that I adopted from Doctorwhoscarf.com, as well as just making the color joins look bumpy (though that might just be due to my flawed technique).
Consequently, though it’s not strictly screen-accurate, I ended up knitting one stitch of the previous color before color changes.
Join 4 up next.
The row count for the duplicate is nearly the same as the Season 13 iteration of the Original Scarf. The red bars on the pattern signify the panels where the row count differs. However the duplicate scarf is narrower than the original, knit to be 60 stitches wide rather than 66.
The Duplicate scarf was made with similar, but subtly different colors. While the green, grey, and brown are almost exact, the yellow is brighter, the purple is brighter and lighter, the red is darker, and the tan is less saturated. This picture is the best screenshot I've found that shows the color difference, particularly in the yellow.
Due to this, while I continued to use the same yarn for the green, grey, and brown sections, for the others I switched:
Red: Hobby Lobby “I Love This Wool” - 170 (Terra Cotta)
Purple: Paton’s Classic Wool Merino - Plum Heather [heathered, not perfect]
Tan: Paton’s Classic Wool Merino - Sesame [an older lot, new ones are too saturated]
Yellow: Plymouth Galway Worsted - 60 (Golden Yellow)
As you can see, most of those yarns are fairly heavy worsted weight, which led to a problem with the next change: That this scarf was knit with even smaller needles than the Original. Small enough to make 60 stitches = 9 to 9.5 inches wide, or about 6.5 stitches per inch. For most people, including myself, that means US size 4 (3.5 mm width) needles.
The problem is that worsted weight yarn is really meant for a US size 7 (4.5 mm width) needles, and knitting with the Size 4, while not impossible, makes the resulting knitwork very tight and not drape as well. Also, the heavier worsted yarn doesn’t match as well with the other, lighter worsted yarns from the previous colors.
Still, these problems can be lessened by blocking and stretching the scarf.
Unlike the Original Half, on this half of the scarf one should knit all stitches in each row, rather than slipping the last stitch. Along with this, one shouldn’t knit any stitches of the previous color in the next row during color changes.
The problem I ran into with this is that this interrupts the method of weaving in the yarn ends that I adopted from Doctorwhoscarf.com, as well as just making the color joins look bumpy (though that might just be due to my flawed technique).
Consequently, though it’s not strictly screen-accurate, I ended up knitting one stitch of the previous color before color changes.
Join 4 up next.