To begin with, the basic pattern for the Original Half is presented below. Most of the basics follow the guidelines on Doctorwhoscarf.com, which is really a wonderful resource for people starting out.
The pattern is in garter stitch (all rows knit), with the last stitch on each row slipped knit-wise, and is cast on 66 stitches. As on Doctorwhoscarf.com, the number on each section of the pattern is for the row count, meaning it takes two rows to make one visible ridge of garter stitch.
The pattern calls for needles to hit a gauge of 66 stitches = 11 inches wide, or 6 stitches an inch. Because every person knits with different degrees of tightness or looseness, the needle size one uses may vary. Most people seem to do fine with US Size 5 (3.75 mm width) needles, but because I am cursed with an uneven knitting tension, I went for US Size 6 (4.00 mm width).
On color changes in the original scarf, three to five stitches of the previous color were used on the next row before stitching to the new color.
As an average, I opted for four stitches.
Also, I highly suggest the method for weaving in the yarn ends on the Tips page of
http://doctorwhoscarf.com.
Doctorwhoscarf.com is constantly updating their suggestions for suitable yarns. For the Original Half, I used most of the suggestions from its Light Worsted combination:
Red: Cascade 220 Superwash - 823 (Burnt Orange)
Purple: Cascade 220 Superwash - 880 (Marionberry)
Green: Universal Deluxe Worsted - 12181 (Bronze Brown)
Yellow: Universal Deluxe Worsted - 12182 (Gold Spice)
Tan: Universal Deluxe Worsted - 41138 (Brown Sugar)
Brown: Knit Picks “Wool of the Andes” - 23893 (Amber Heather)
Grey: Knit Picks “Wool of the Andes” - 25073 (Bramble Heather)
Alternatively, if you want to get knitting as quickly as possible, you could do what I did on my first scarf and use the color chips that are suggested on
http://wittylittleknitter.com’s Color Matching page as a guide. (I taped them to a section of cardboard to keep them all together.) It’s also nice to have as something to compare any suggested yarns to.
The sections on the pattern labeled Join 1, Join 2, Join 3, and Join 4 are sections where the pattern deviates from being purely garter stitch.
In follow-up posts I’ll explain how from pictures of those sections, I’ve altered the pattern to attempt to copy the appearance of those sections.