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Thought this would give you a little background as to where I am staying...
Be surprised by Utrecht! scream the pamphlets advertising breaks to Holland's fourth largest city.
For hype-wary tourists, the slogans raise suspicions that the city will not live up to its promises. Ignore your instincts to search for a more modest destination - you will be surprised by Utrecht.
The city is what many disappointed tourists imagine Amsterdam to be like - pretty canals lined with cafés (the coffee'n'wine sort), streets crowded with bicycles and centuries-old architecture - minus the seediness.
Quay into history
The 2,000-year-old city has strong ties with England.
In 47AD, the Romans, eager to reinforce their empire along the Rhine, built a castle on the site of Utrecht's present cathedral square.
But the real city did not emerge until the English missionary Willibrord settled in the old fort in the 7th century.
Utrecht's canals date from this period and there can't be many cities that boast such numerous quayside paths. Created centuries ago, they provide access to cellars under the canalside buildings.
Restaurants now occupy many of these cellars and a highlight of any visit is eating a meal along one of the terraces. With tables at the water's edge and a three-course Italian dinner for e27.50, Zilli & Zilli (Oudegracht 73. Tel: 030 231 3291) is one of many well-priced options.
During the day, join the houseboats gliding along the canals by hiring a pedal boat for a water-level view of the cellars. Canal Bike (Oudegracht 167. Tel: 020 626 5574) rents pedal boats for e6 an hour per person.
A walking tour of Utrecht should begin at RomDom - a historic complex comprising the Domkerk (Dom Church), Domtoren (Dom Tower) and herbal garden. You can't miss it - at 112 metres, the 600-year-old Domtoren is the tallest tower in the Netherlands.
To climb the tower, head to the Tourist Information Centre across the Domplein (Dom Square) and book a guided tour. It's worth braving the 465 steps just for the views, but don't miss the carillon - a set of 50 musical bells - made by the Harmony brothers in 1664 and still in use.
As well as being a belfry, the tower has had some, well, surprising uses. In the 15th century a tower watchman ran a pub on the second level. It could only be reached by climbing up a ladder, so the more the punters drank, the more difficult it became to leave - hence the Dutch saying 'drunk as a ladder'.
Be surprised by Utrecht! scream the pamphlets advertising breaks to Holland's fourth largest city.
For hype-wary tourists, the slogans raise suspicions that the city will not live up to its promises. Ignore your instincts to search for a more modest destination - you will be surprised by Utrecht.
The city is what many disappointed tourists imagine Amsterdam to be like - pretty canals lined with cafés (the coffee'n'wine sort), streets crowded with bicycles and centuries-old architecture - minus the seediness.
Quay into history
The 2,000-year-old city has strong ties with England.
In 47AD, the Romans, eager to reinforce their empire along the Rhine, built a castle on the site of Utrecht's present cathedral square.
But the real city did not emerge until the English missionary Willibrord settled in the old fort in the 7th century.
Utrecht's canals date from this period and there can't be many cities that boast such numerous quayside paths. Created centuries ago, they provide access to cellars under the canalside buildings.
Restaurants now occupy many of these cellars and a highlight of any visit is eating a meal along one of the terraces. With tables at the water's edge and a three-course Italian dinner for e27.50, Zilli & Zilli (Oudegracht 73. Tel: 030 231 3291) is one of many well-priced options.
During the day, join the houseboats gliding along the canals by hiring a pedal boat for a water-level view of the cellars. Canal Bike (Oudegracht 167. Tel: 020 626 5574) rents pedal boats for e6 an hour per person.
A walking tour of Utrecht should begin at RomDom - a historic complex comprising the Domkerk (Dom Church), Domtoren (Dom Tower) and herbal garden. You can't miss it - at 112 metres, the 600-year-old Domtoren is the tallest tower in the Netherlands.
To climb the tower, head to the Tourist Information Centre across the Domplein (Dom Square) and book a guided tour. It's worth braving the 465 steps just for the views, but don't miss the carillon - a set of 50 musical bells - made by the Harmony brothers in 1664 and still in use.
As well as being a belfry, the tower has had some, well, surprising uses. In the 15th century a tower watchman ran a pub on the second level. It could only be reached by climbing up a ladder, so the more the punters drank, the more difficult it became to leave - hence the Dutch saying 'drunk as a ladder'.