Debut 3/3 - Moon Ballerina
Every year the Costume Program at The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandizing participates in the fashion show Debut. This year our theme was the masquerade scene from Phantom of the Opera. Each student was given a budget, and three costumes to build for the show (One principal, two ensemble) I made costumes for the Diva Carlotta, a moon ballerina and Pierrotte.
This is the second costume I built from scratch For the Debut Show, and probably my favorite of the three. Modeled by the talented Asha Lannin of http://www.justasha.com/. Crystals were graciously donated by Swarovski in Clear, Aurora Borealis, and white opal in several sizes and shape including the large rectangular ones on the bodice.
Initial design:
Fairly early on in the design process I decided I wanted to make a ballerina. This was because I liked the technical challenge of making a tutu; but also because they are cannon for Phantom since Christine was first a dancer in the company. The rest of the design process was pretty organic since I had already been drawing a lot of inspiration from Alphonse Mucha’s The Moon and Stars Series; as well as movies like Everafter, animation like Sailor Moon, and this photo series: http://moonywolf.deviantart.com/gallery/8276083#/d1tyd9z
Bodice:
The Bodice is one layer of brocade coutil (Dyed blue) boned with 1/4" spiral steels finished top and bottom with bias binding. Over that I layered blue silk charmeuse, and various nets in bias strips. Once they were pinned in place I hand basted them all to the coutil and gathered the strips at the bottom into points, except in the back I left a wild "tail". At the ends of the points I added a cluster of crystals and I ended up adding more strips to the tail to make it fuller. The back has a silver zipper to facilitate quick changes.
Puff Sleeves:
The pattern was adapted from my 1840's ballgown bodice (Because it was off the shoulder) and finished with elastic at the top so it grips the arm. Decorated with the same strips and crystals as the bodice.
Tutu:
To make my life easier I purchased a classical tutu kit from http://tutu.com/index.html. If you have the money I recommend the kit, it came with everything I needed plus instructions book, patterns and decorative extras (I got the snow queen kit). Because of time constraints I ended up having to construct it the quick and dirty way, using machine gathers instead of hand pleating. I also only scalloped the top 3 layers instead of the whole tutu. I made the panty and the basque out of power mesh to help make changes quicker, and it snaps up the back.
In the end I decided not to hoop my tutu, I like the sort of wilder feel it has to it, and I think it lends to the playfulness of the costume. If the tutu begins to sag later I can always add it then. After the dress rehearsal I ended up adding some of the white opal crystals to the outer edges of the tutu (Not pictured).
Tights:
I took some basic white dance tights and tinted them silver, then sprayed them with gold glitter and fixed them. Then I glued on metallic fabric stars, and crystals.
Headdress:
This is how far I got on the headdress for the fitting, and it shows the construction the best. One layer buckram with millinery wire, that was then covered with batting and silver leather. Silver Croque and peacock feather were combined and stitched to a large metal jewelry piece. The back has a silver elastic band.
Once the fitting was over I finished the edges of the leather (Silver puff paint) and began beading and adding the crystals and chains. Once that was done I finished the interior with felt and added hair clips.
Wings:
I custom ordered crescent shaped wings from: http://www.etsy.com/shop/EnchantedHearth then embellished and altered the color to match my costume. The wings snap to the back of the bodice on the inside, and their is an elastic belt around the waist. Their is a cluster of crystals at both moon points, as well as the edges (on both sides) having a line of white crystals.
Bracelets:
These were made by combining jewelry findings from one of the bead stores downtown. I made the wrist elastic (For quick changes) but the made-to-order version in my store has a chain clasp: https://www.etsy.com/listing/95804292/silver-filigree-hand-bracelet-cuff-glove?listing_id=95804292&listing_slug=silver-filigree-hand-bracelet-cuff-glove
Tambourine:
I got lucky and managed to find one that was crescent shaped. I spray painted it silver, then tied on the left over bias strips from the bodice and added some crystals.
Dress Rehearsal:
By Brandise Danesewich:
Asha is a real dancer, and part of her choreography for the performance included ballet when she was on a less crowded part of the stage. I am really happy Brandise was able to get these shots of her stretching backstage.
Other:
This has been cross-posted to my own journal, and on my Facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/Anachronism.In.Action
Thank you for reading!
This is the second costume I built from scratch For the Debut Show, and probably my favorite of the three. Modeled by the talented Asha Lannin of http://www.justasha.com/. Crystals were graciously donated by Swarovski in Clear, Aurora Borealis, and white opal in several sizes and shape including the large rectangular ones on the bodice.
Initial design:
Fairly early on in the design process I decided I wanted to make a ballerina. This was because I liked the technical challenge of making a tutu; but also because they are cannon for Phantom since Christine was first a dancer in the company. The rest of the design process was pretty organic since I had already been drawing a lot of inspiration from Alphonse Mucha’s The Moon and Stars Series; as well as movies like Everafter, animation like Sailor Moon, and this photo series: http://moonywolf.deviantart.com/gallery/8276083#/d1tyd9z
Bodice:
The Bodice is one layer of brocade coutil (Dyed blue) boned with 1/4" spiral steels finished top and bottom with bias binding. Over that I layered blue silk charmeuse, and various nets in bias strips. Once they were pinned in place I hand basted them all to the coutil and gathered the strips at the bottom into points, except in the back I left a wild "tail". At the ends of the points I added a cluster of crystals and I ended up adding more strips to the tail to make it fuller. The back has a silver zipper to facilitate quick changes.
Puff Sleeves:
The pattern was adapted from my 1840's ballgown bodice (Because it was off the shoulder) and finished with elastic at the top so it grips the arm. Decorated with the same strips and crystals as the bodice.
Tutu:
To make my life easier I purchased a classical tutu kit from http://tutu.com/index.html. If you have the money I recommend the kit, it came with everything I needed plus instructions book, patterns and decorative extras (I got the snow queen kit). Because of time constraints I ended up having to construct it the quick and dirty way, using machine gathers instead of hand pleating. I also only scalloped the top 3 layers instead of the whole tutu. I made the panty and the basque out of power mesh to help make changes quicker, and it snaps up the back.
In the end I decided not to hoop my tutu, I like the sort of wilder feel it has to it, and I think it lends to the playfulness of the costume. If the tutu begins to sag later I can always add it then. After the dress rehearsal I ended up adding some of the white opal crystals to the outer edges of the tutu (Not pictured).
Tights:
I took some basic white dance tights and tinted them silver, then sprayed them with gold glitter and fixed them. Then I glued on metallic fabric stars, and crystals.
Headdress:
This is how far I got on the headdress for the fitting, and it shows the construction the best. One layer buckram with millinery wire, that was then covered with batting and silver leather. Silver Croque and peacock feather were combined and stitched to a large metal jewelry piece. The back has a silver elastic band.
Once the fitting was over I finished the edges of the leather (Silver puff paint) and began beading and adding the crystals and chains. Once that was done I finished the interior with felt and added hair clips.
Wings:
I custom ordered crescent shaped wings from: http://www.etsy.com/shop/EnchantedHearth then embellished and altered the color to match my costume. The wings snap to the back of the bodice on the inside, and their is an elastic belt around the waist. Their is a cluster of crystals at both moon points, as well as the edges (on both sides) having a line of white crystals.
Bracelets:
These were made by combining jewelry findings from one of the bead stores downtown. I made the wrist elastic (For quick changes) but the made-to-order version in my store has a chain clasp: https://www.etsy.com/listing/95804292/silver-filigree-hand-bracelet-cuff-glove?listing_id=95804292&listing_slug=silver-filigree-hand-bracelet-cuff-glove
Tambourine:
I got lucky and managed to find one that was crescent shaped. I spray painted it silver, then tied on the left over bias strips from the bodice and added some crystals.
Dress Rehearsal:
By Brandise Danesewich:
Asha is a real dancer, and part of her choreography for the performance included ballet when she was on a less crowded part of the stage. I am really happy Brandise was able to get these shots of her stretching backstage.
Other:
This has been cross-posted to my own journal, and on my Facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/Anachronism.In.Action
Thank you for reading!