Elizabethan Doublet #1
Soo, I haven't posted in a loooong time (went and got married and moved, so my projects got pushed aside). But now I've started a new dress project. It's a late 16th century middle class doublet/kirtle. It's been very slow going, and I'm a little nervous to post it publicly, but here you go. I haven't been doing a good job of taking pictures thus far because I've been kind of 'in the zone', but there are a few. This is cross-posted to my own LJ.
This project started because I was FINALLY gutting my studio and organizing all my crap following the move. While organizing my fabric stash I came across a piece of gorgeous rust and ivory tapestry fabric that I got at the thrift store forever ago. This idea popped into my head and I haven't been able to shake it. It's scary because I have just under 1 yard of this stuff, and it's in a weird shape... so far so good though! First I drew up this sketch in photoshop:
It will of course be more interesting then just the sketch, details in the sleeves and such. Also, I'm making the kirtle (black underdress) out of diamond quilted cotton. I don't know if making a full kirtle out of it is period, or a few other details, but I know quilting was super common due to the cold temperatures of the age, and the fact that plain fabric often could not have held up to the obscene amount of decoration the 'bethans put on their clothing. Also I am fully romanced by the idea of the texture, so I'm just doing it :-P
I started this one differently then usual. I used math (GASP!!!) to draft the pattern rather than draping. My dress form is not at all squishable, and not the right shapes for period clothing, so it was always tricky and super complicated getting it to fit like the history books say. I drafted the pattern and made a toille, and that fit so well that I'm saving it as my master bodice pattern for Elizabethan garb!
I cut out the black cotton liner, some thick ugly corduroy as a stiffening layer, and then spent a few hours deliberating the best way to cut out the top fabric to leave enough for sleeves. This was made trickier by the fact that 3 of the sides are bordered with a different weave then the center of the fabric (you'll see it on the doublet's center-front). Then I pieced the layers together and added a few zip-tie bones through the front and sides.
Then I spent a weekend stitching bias tape down the front opening, and closing the front and bottom seams. Then I stitched a million hooks and eyes into it, and this is where things stand right now:
One of the hook and eyes' is too far apart, making it pucker slightly near the top, so I have to redo that pair, and I have to add one more hook and eye at the very bottom to stop it popping open like you can see in this one:
And the back:
You'll see some slight wrinkling on the sides because I have not trimmed down and closed the armscyes yet. All that's left on the build of the doublet is doing that, adding the collar and creating the sleeves, both parts of which will have a lot more of the trim. The trim is all stitched by hand, because this tapestry stretches easily, it's rather loosely woven. Hence all the interior structure, and hand quilting the trim all the way through the layers. It seems to be keeping its shape and stability very nicely now.
I also picked up the quilted black fabric for the kirtle. I did have to go to THREE stores to find the fabric though! It's a common common item, so I have no idea why it was so hard to find! But once the doublet is done, I'll use my awesome bodice template to make the kirtle too.
I have started the sleeves, but I'm working through some design quicksand, and will post again with those pieces when I'm sure what direction exactly they'll go.
I am still figuring out details, embellishments and more trim placements, but so far I'm pretty pleased since it's been almost 2 years since I made something! What do you think?
This project started because I was FINALLY gutting my studio and organizing all my crap following the move. While organizing my fabric stash I came across a piece of gorgeous rust and ivory tapestry fabric that I got at the thrift store forever ago. This idea popped into my head and I haven't been able to shake it. It's scary because I have just under 1 yard of this stuff, and it's in a weird shape... so far so good though! First I drew up this sketch in photoshop:
It will of course be more interesting then just the sketch, details in the sleeves and such. Also, I'm making the kirtle (black underdress) out of diamond quilted cotton. I don't know if making a full kirtle out of it is period, or a few other details, but I know quilting was super common due to the cold temperatures of the age, and the fact that plain fabric often could not have held up to the obscene amount of decoration the 'bethans put on their clothing. Also I am fully romanced by the idea of the texture, so I'm just doing it :-P
I started this one differently then usual. I used math (GASP!!!) to draft the pattern rather than draping. My dress form is not at all squishable, and not the right shapes for period clothing, so it was always tricky and super complicated getting it to fit like the history books say. I drafted the pattern and made a toille, and that fit so well that I'm saving it as my master bodice pattern for Elizabethan garb!
I cut out the black cotton liner, some thick ugly corduroy as a stiffening layer, and then spent a few hours deliberating the best way to cut out the top fabric to leave enough for sleeves. This was made trickier by the fact that 3 of the sides are bordered with a different weave then the center of the fabric (you'll see it on the doublet's center-front). Then I pieced the layers together and added a few zip-tie bones through the front and sides.
Then I spent a weekend stitching bias tape down the front opening, and closing the front and bottom seams. Then I stitched a million hooks and eyes into it, and this is where things stand right now:
One of the hook and eyes' is too far apart, making it pucker slightly near the top, so I have to redo that pair, and I have to add one more hook and eye at the very bottom to stop it popping open like you can see in this one:
And the back:
You'll see some slight wrinkling on the sides because I have not trimmed down and closed the armscyes yet. All that's left on the build of the doublet is doing that, adding the collar and creating the sleeves, both parts of which will have a lot more of the trim. The trim is all stitched by hand, because this tapestry stretches easily, it's rather loosely woven. Hence all the interior structure, and hand quilting the trim all the way through the layers. It seems to be keeping its shape and stability very nicely now.
I also picked up the quilted black fabric for the kirtle. I did have to go to THREE stores to find the fabric though! It's a common common item, so I have no idea why it was so hard to find! But once the doublet is done, I'll use my awesome bodice template to make the kirtle too.
I have started the sleeves, but I'm working through some design quicksand, and will post again with those pieces when I'm sure what direction exactly they'll go.
I am still figuring out details, embellishments and more trim placements, but so far I'm pretty pleased since it's been almost 2 years since I made something! What do you think?