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Jan 01, 2006 22:46


So there, I am, in Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon, at about 3 o'clock in the morning, looking for one thousand brown M&Ms to fill a brandy glass, or Ozzy wouldn't go on stage that night. So, Jeff Beck pops his head 'round the door, and mentions there's a little sweets shop on the edge of town. So - we go. And - it's closed. So there's me, and Keith Moon, and David Crosby, breaking into that little sweets shop, eh. Well, instead of a guard dog, they've got this bloody great big bengal tiger. I managed to take out the tiger with a can of mace, but the shopkeeper and his son... that's a different story altogether. I had to beat them to death with their own shoes.



I'm making a documentary film.

I've decided to do this because of my own collection of surf films. I own quite a few. They all center around the usual....professional surfers on amazing trips to exotic locations with picturesque waves, contests with sponsor machines ripping unbelivably on always new equiptment, waves so big that they seem to require mountain climbing gear to conquere. Great to watch, entertaining, amazing, but they don't have something. They don't have that thing that I can connect to. That other people like me can connect to.

My film is going to be about life for the average Californian surfer. The bad winds, the less then ideal waves, the cold water, the long drives, the old boards, the day jobs. The friends and the stories. I want to make something that anyone who's ever put 2 dollars on pump 4 so they could get to the closest beach just to get wet can watch and say "been there". And I want to do it to show that it doesn't matter, as long as you're loving it. That there is no standard to live up to, and there is really no such thing as failing. We can all be just as stoked.

I am about to learn all about the term "low budget film" I think. I know that when it's over no one will see it but me and a few people I know, but it will be fun to do.
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