Tatooooosh!
Heading into this trip, the forecast looked grim - 4-14" of snowfall Saturday, high of 20 degrees, low overnight of 12 degrees. However, sure that we would soon be stuck in worse conditions climbing something bigger, we decided to go anyway and make the best of it. Oh, the surprises that lay ahead!
Does it get any better than this?
More photos (plus notes) in this set.
Pretty OK Campsite:
Liz & The Castle:
Denny & The Castle:
Badass Climbing Partner!
Coming Down the Mountain!
The avalanche forecast was Moderate, and our north-facing shovel test on Saturday had its first failure at 17, a fairly solid rating. Good to go on <35 degree slopes was my assessment. Later on we saw a small skier-triggered slab on a 50ish-degree slope.
This was my first time routefinding on my own in unfamiliar territory, by map, compass, and altimeter. It went pretty well :) We were able to make good decisions and change plans appropriately as we went, and only got into trouble once. Early Sunday morning heading up in very flat light, I pointed us across a bowl (shortcut!). We almost stepped off a short, but steep, snow slope. Continuing on skirting into the bowl, I heard my first scary-as-fuck WHOOMP. Bad, bad sign. Back we went, and up a different way. Whew. As we continued up, we saw a natural slab avalanche on a ~50 degree north-facing slope, about 10" deep and 20' across, that ran out 300'. Note to self - avoid steep north-facing aspects today, and keep doing snowpit tests on the aspects you'll be travling on or below.
Liz proved once again that she's a great climbing partner. She has endless enthusiasm in the mountains, and we provided each other with many 'entertainment opportunities' (fuckups). We got along very well, were patient with each other when we each had difficulties, and offered lots of encouragement. "Things are looking up", so she says, and I think she's right.
Pretty much the only things missing from this trip were one Little Penguin, and my voice, which seems to have chased after the full moon Saturday night and not come back.
Oh yeah, and the Fleet Foxes were amazing Friday night. How am I so lucky to be living this life?
Does it get any better than this?
More photos (plus notes) in this set.
Pretty OK Campsite:
Liz & The Castle:
Denny & The Castle:
Badass Climbing Partner!
Coming Down the Mountain!
The avalanche forecast was Moderate, and our north-facing shovel test on Saturday had its first failure at 17, a fairly solid rating. Good to go on <35 degree slopes was my assessment. Later on we saw a small skier-triggered slab on a 50ish-degree slope.
This was my first time routefinding on my own in unfamiliar territory, by map, compass, and altimeter. It went pretty well :) We were able to make good decisions and change plans appropriately as we went, and only got into trouble once. Early Sunday morning heading up in very flat light, I pointed us across a bowl (shortcut!). We almost stepped off a short, but steep, snow slope. Continuing on skirting into the bowl, I heard my first scary-as-fuck WHOOMP. Bad, bad sign. Back we went, and up a different way. Whew. As we continued up, we saw a natural slab avalanche on a ~50 degree north-facing slope, about 10" deep and 20' across, that ran out 300'. Note to self - avoid steep north-facing aspects today, and keep doing snowpit tests on the aspects you'll be travling on or below.
Liz proved once again that she's a great climbing partner. She has endless enthusiasm in the mountains, and we provided each other with many 'entertainment opportunities' (fuckups). We got along very well, were patient with each other when we each had difficulties, and offered lots of encouragement. "Things are looking up", so she says, and I think she's right.
Pretty much the only things missing from this trip were one Little Penguin, and my voice, which seems to have chased after the full moon Saturday night and not come back.
Oh yeah, and the Fleet Foxes were amazing Friday night. How am I so lucky to be living this life?