(no subject)

[delta_forc3]

I think now

I wanna train to be able to surf

Waimea Bay and/or Nor Cal w/ the Mavericks

then Peahi

or the Jaws w/ the Strapped Crew

then, Tahiti

and try and ride one of thsoe f***in amazing waves

I was watchin the movie Riding Giants

this wave that I think it was Laird Hamilton rode...

it was wierd...

See most of the time when you ride a wave and you want to ride in a tube

you go the left of it, and on ur left side

is the wall of the wave

and that's wat u touch

well this guy, was touching behind his back with his right hand

it was f***in amazing

and then the way the wave crashed... jsut

surreal almost