Ahhhhh....release
This morning I got up at 6:00am, and went surfing with Tina. I finally got to use my new surf board. I had so much fun, and I did pretty good out there considering I am learning, and it was my first time on this board. I felt so free, so relaxed and calm. Well besides the fact that I got taken down by a large wave and sucked under. I found the ground and I pushed myself up. I knew I was going in the right direction, and I should pop out any second, when I hit my board with my head. It hurt pretty bad, and I have a little indentation on my board where I hit. It was nothing too crazy, but it sure as hell shocked the shit out of me.
I find that surfing is a very therapeutic outlet. I think about it constantly, and want to go all of the time. I guess it is good because it drives me to get everything else done in my life that I need to, so that I can release some energy in the ocean.
It was beautiful this morning, I decided to be bold and paddle out farther(but not as far as the experienced surfers), and all of a sudden I saw little whirl pools less than 5 feet away from me. I knew that something was down there, but didn't know what. I was sitting on my board watching what was going on when all of a sudden these dolphins started jumping around Tina and me. At first I was a little frightened, because all that I saw was fins...I thought holy shit, a shark....(I've seen Jaws way too many times), but when I saw that they were dolphins I just couldn't help but see the beauty in it. I am going again on sunday, hopefully my little friends will be back.
I find that surfing is a very therapeutic outlet. I think about it constantly, and want to go all of the time. I guess it is good because it drives me to get everything else done in my life that I need to, so that I can release some energy in the ocean.
It was beautiful this morning, I decided to be bold and paddle out farther(but not as far as the experienced surfers), and all of a sudden I saw little whirl pools less than 5 feet away from me. I knew that something was down there, but didn't know what. I was sitting on my board watching what was going on when all of a sudden these dolphins started jumping around Tina and me. At first I was a little frightened, because all that I saw was fins...I thought holy shit, a shark....(I've seen Jaws way too many times), but when I saw that they were dolphins I just couldn't help but see the beauty in it. I am going again on sunday, hopefully my little friends will be back.