Gentleman's Dress Accessories
In honor of Telsacon (which I cannot wait for) I have decided to post a few fashionable review :
(Can be found here - http://crimsonbooksinc.storesecured.com/items/book-publishers/shire/victorian/gentlemen-s-dress-accessories-e-eckstein-and-j-g-firkins-srpsli205-detail.htm )
Gentlemen’s Dress Accessories - E Eckstein and J&G Firkins
“…great importance placed on being dressed correctly for every occasion, combined with the fear of committing a faux pas… a very strict etiquette dictated fashion.”
In the early Victorian era it was considered vulgar for a gentleman to put much thought into his dress. The rising middle class found comfort in a unfiform like conventions of dress. But in the 1860s a change occurred when an increase in the popularity and sport led to specific fashions being developed to worn while hunting, playing cricket, riding, etc.
With time elements of these more casual garments worked their way in to day to day dress. Today’s suit can be dated back to when the weekend wear of the 1860s (with pants and jacket made of matching material) moved into the office in the 1890s.
One of a gentleman’s most important accessories was his watch. In this pre-wrist watch era how a man wore his watch chains said a great deal about him. The ‘albert’ style, named after Victoria’s consort who pioneered the look, featured the chain being worn horizontally, and was probably the most popular look. From the chain a man might dangle tokens of various professional organizations he belonged to, as well as emblems from any sporting societies he might have joined.
The style, substance, and button-hole anchor for the chain were all subtle ways for a Victorian gentleman to express his individuality. Very sporting fellows would supplement their watches with high-tech equipment like barometers, and altimeters, showing off their habit of ballooning on weekends.
A well-dressed man generally carried a metal pencil and a matching Vesta case (or match holder), usually made of precious metals or one of the new scientific materials like vulcanite or bakelite.
The greatest variety of style would be found in the areas of stick pins (tie clips existed, but were not yet widely popular) and cuff-links, where even serious minded Victorians could be found to engage in a touch of whimsy. In one of the collections pictured there are pins topped with birds made out of mother of pearl, a silver bust wearing a fez, and a very, almost disturbingly, detailed house fly cast in silver.
For those looking into crafting, or who simple want to be very exacting in their costuming, the author include a page of diagrams detailing the shapes of button studs, the shanks on the different styles, and the construction of various types of cufflinks.
A gentleman of the period would have had a full-set of matching, personal grooming items, made of ebony if he could afford it, and ebonised wood if he couldn’t. A standard kit would probably include a set of stud dishes, a cleaning brush, a jar for pomade, a glove stretcher, a mirror, and a set of nail files.
In addition to a detailed text, this book features many wonderful carte de visite photos of gentlemen turned out in their best. The gentleman on page twenty-nine wearing walking clothes is my personal favorite, and I am going to have to try and make a copy of his hat.
Anyone looking for a new costume idea, or to figure out what that peculiar item that they just saw at the antique store (Hat stretcher? Napkin holder? A liontine, perhaps), was used for, will find this book both useful and delightful.
(Can be found here - http://crimsonbooksinc.storesecured.com/items/book-publishers/shire/victorian/gentlemen-s-dress-accessories-e-eckstein-and-j-g-firkins-srpsli205-detail.htm )
Gentlemen’s Dress Accessories - E Eckstein and J&G Firkins
“…great importance placed on being dressed correctly for every occasion, combined with the fear of committing a faux pas… a very strict etiquette dictated fashion.”
In the early Victorian era it was considered vulgar for a gentleman to put much thought into his dress. The rising middle class found comfort in a unfiform like conventions of dress. But in the 1860s a change occurred when an increase in the popularity and sport led to specific fashions being developed to worn while hunting, playing cricket, riding, etc.
With time elements of these more casual garments worked their way in to day to day dress. Today’s suit can be dated back to when the weekend wear of the 1860s (with pants and jacket made of matching material) moved into the office in the 1890s.
One of a gentleman’s most important accessories was his watch. In this pre-wrist watch era how a man wore his watch chains said a great deal about him. The ‘albert’ style, named after Victoria’s consort who pioneered the look, featured the chain being worn horizontally, and was probably the most popular look. From the chain a man might dangle tokens of various professional organizations he belonged to, as well as emblems from any sporting societies he might have joined.
The style, substance, and button-hole anchor for the chain were all subtle ways for a Victorian gentleman to express his individuality. Very sporting fellows would supplement their watches with high-tech equipment like barometers, and altimeters, showing off their habit of ballooning on weekends.
A well-dressed man generally carried a metal pencil and a matching Vesta case (or match holder), usually made of precious metals or one of the new scientific materials like vulcanite or bakelite.
The greatest variety of style would be found in the areas of stick pins (tie clips existed, but were not yet widely popular) and cuff-links, where even serious minded Victorians could be found to engage in a touch of whimsy. In one of the collections pictured there are pins topped with birds made out of mother of pearl, a silver bust wearing a fez, and a very, almost disturbingly, detailed house fly cast in silver.
For those looking into crafting, or who simple want to be very exacting in their costuming, the author include a page of diagrams detailing the shapes of button studs, the shanks on the different styles, and the construction of various types of cufflinks.
A gentleman of the period would have had a full-set of matching, personal grooming items, made of ebony if he could afford it, and ebonised wood if he couldn’t. A standard kit would probably include a set of stud dishes, a cleaning brush, a jar for pomade, a glove stretcher, a mirror, and a set of nail files.
In addition to a detailed text, this book features many wonderful carte de visite photos of gentlemen turned out in their best. The gentleman on page twenty-nine wearing walking clothes is my personal favorite, and I am going to have to try and make a copy of his hat.
Anyone looking for a new costume idea, or to figure out what that peculiar item that they just saw at the antique store (Hat stretcher? Napkin holder? A liontine, perhaps), was used for, will find this book both useful and delightful.