Apr 30, 2004 23:23
all i can say about todays surf was awesome, as soon as i left school i hit the road and was at the beach at 3:45, it was wierd because in english we where reading this poem about things you do that make you happy and how chemicals are releassed giving you a natural high, well i def feel high after a good surf session, i love powerful surf i can pull so much more off instead of just pumping all the way, well i was out and ended up surfing with this girl christie shes realy good she won the bilabong jr pro girls division that was pretty fun than i got out around 7 and the drive home was so awesome because itr was lightning out and it just looked amazing