don't call it a comeback: the objective
First off, the dream route: The Beckey-Chouinard, on the West Buttress of South Howser Tower, in the Bugaboos range of British Columbia. The object of my desire.
This route initially captured my imagination on my first trip to the Bugaboos in 2006 with the ICC, when I talked to a couple of climbers staying in the Kain Hut with us who had just gotten back from their climb. At the time, I didn't really understand what the route meant, but I knew it was well beyond my abilities and wondered if I would ever be the kind of climber who could accomplish something like that. In 2008 I went back to the Bugaboos, and we talked about climbing the B-C, before downgrading our objectives considerably. The following year Ambrose pushed to tackle the route, but my bum wrist and (more importantly) bum confidence nixed the plan and we wound up spending the week in Squamish instead. Last year I did not even consider it.
It has been on my mind the whole time.
Grade V, 18 pitches up to 5.10a, topping out at 11,150 feet. The route ascends the ridge crest to the the large flat spot that appears to be 2/3 height, then moves briefly right and left, before tackling the upper Great White Headwall directly.
I have butterflies in my stomach.
This route initially captured my imagination on my first trip to the Bugaboos in 2006 with the ICC, when I talked to a couple of climbers staying in the Kain Hut with us who had just gotten back from their climb. At the time, I didn't really understand what the route meant, but I knew it was well beyond my abilities and wondered if I would ever be the kind of climber who could accomplish something like that. In 2008 I went back to the Bugaboos, and we talked about climbing the B-C, before downgrading our objectives considerably. The following year Ambrose pushed to tackle the route, but my bum wrist and (more importantly) bum confidence nixed the plan and we wound up spending the week in Squamish instead. Last year I did not even consider it.
It has been on my mind the whole time.
Grade V, 18 pitches up to 5.10a, topping out at 11,150 feet. The route ascends the ridge crest to the the large flat spot that appears to be 2/3 height, then moves briefly right and left, before tackling the upper Great White Headwall directly.
I have butterflies in my stomach.