Waistline in 18th century stays

[florialparis]

Hi all,

I'm having some problems understanding 18th century stay patterns regarding the waistline. Is it directly at the top of the tabs, or is it slightly above it? Some sources say it's at the top of the tabs and some pictures prove that as well:

Comments

re: stays

[ext_4545987]

Something I know!! I can expand a bit on why different extant examples of stays have different lengths and different waistlines. As the other commenter noted, stays design shifted over the course of the eighteenth century.

A good example of the beginning would be the first picture you attached--note how they're long and extremely conical. If you look into early 18th century dress, long, rigid, conical torsos were the style at the time.

Throughout the 18th century the conical shape was in fashion, but as it progressed, stays became shorter, until there's a very noted difference in length. The second picture you attached would be a good example of later 18th century stays.

That answers the question of why there's such a difference.

As for the pattern, I wouldn't be able to tell for sure without a grid for scaling or context, but in many stays the tabs are meant to flare out over the hips. In shorter ones this might not necessarily be the case, but either way the tabs are meant to flare out--that's why they're there and it's not just a solid piece of fabric. The narrowest part of your body in stays is not generally supposed to by at the end of the tabs, as far as I know, because that just. Doesn't make sense, you know? Their cut and design is there specifically to flare out and smooth the lines of the body because the displaced fat from the waist has to go Somewhere.

So, I'd say your assumption that the "waistline" (not sure if that's the proper term when discussing 18th century wear but idk) is around where the tab boning intersects with the rest of the bones is fairly accurate.

I'd encourage you to look at what part of the 18th century your pattern is from in order to help figure out how it should fit you.

Sorry if my wording is a little wonky, it's like... 2:30 AM?

(If you want some historical fashion blogs that go over stays in more detail I can link them for you!)

Re: stays

[florialparis]

Thank you for the reply! Yes, I'd love to get more detailed information about stays! The pattern is from the book Fashion, a history from the 18th to the 20th century volume 1 and it's taken from an actual corset (Kyoto Costume Institute)which is dated 1760-1770.