Corset pattern drafting is a real challenge... and it might have to do with the pattern itself or the lacing style. Corsets are definitely best when laced to the center with *two* separate laces.. so that the hips/waist and the bust/waist each have their own tension. This helps adjust for the flesh displacement and keeps from tension/support being lost at the top (bust) or bottom (hips). Also. it may be how the bust-cup is formed and attached to the busk. Since busks are flat/straight, it is a bit o' magic that allows the breasts to get their lift and not fall south into the gap that may be created by the underbust space as the busk rides the silhouette which can let the body slump
( ... )
Long busks travel over the breasts... however, if a woman has large breasts they have trouble "taking the curve" when it comes to following from underbust to overbust... hence "the gap" that breasts may slouch into. Bras with underwires, for instance, are supposed to ride the ribcage and the front ends are supposed to sit *against* the skin at the breastbone...however most women do not wear bras that fit, and so the underwires ride OUT from the body in front, which makes large breasts "pool" in the cups instead of being supported by the cups
( ... )
I found this pic on wikipedia which (to me) shows a badly fitting corset where there is no definition of the bust area from the underbust/waist
( ... )
Originally I drafted the corset to be more cupped, but had to reduce it at the underbust and bust more and more until it became like this. Even cinching it as much as we could, she said the bust support was just enough.
Thank you very much! The cups ended up so big after taking it in at the underbust so much to try to get the support she needed. And they are so very "bug-eyed", but I ran out of time to experiment and fix it. Would I have to take it in even more at the underbust along with the bust? Logic tells me that what I take out from the bust, I should add to the back as well. It would probably help with the silhouette too..
Visuals would be very nice, if you don't mind.
All the mockups were made from duck canvas purchased from JoAnn's. I think I should find a different mock-up fabric though, because the final corset in coutil is 2 inches smaller than I would've liked, so I assume the duck canvas stretched a lot, and I transferred all the changes to the pattern without realizing that. Using coutil as a mockup fabric is not an option, it's way too expensive! Do you have any recommendations for this problem too?
Cinching at the top (at the "V", adding lacing) would pull those bug eyes a little together. Also, just a weird little biology thing to know... that at the underbust, along the breastbone there is the thoracic lymph duct that can be 'cut off' from the rest of the body by a too tight bra or corset, weakening your immune system during the time of wear. Real! A corset should feel like a firm, equally-squeezing hug
( ... )
That is very good to know, about the lymph duct! Thank you for telling me!
I'm a bit confused about not adding to the back. It already has a lot of back-fat spilling over, so if I were to take it in at the bust, wouldn't there be even more back-fat?
The Duck Canvas I use is 100% cotton, and I do prewash and dry on hot, and steam it to be sure again to be extra sure. It doesn't stretch when I pull it, at least barely. Could you explain the "snap" test?
The backfat is because the whole torso is likely being overlaced (tightened overly) just in an attempt to support the bust and make it tight THERE. If the bust fit better (tighter) you wouldn't need to overtighten the lacings just for support.. which should cut on the spillage of backfat and make it more comfortable to wear
( ... )
Oh I see! But, assuming I still want the same gap width in the back, would I need to add to the back? The snap test seems like it will come in really handy!
Nope, don't add to the back. If you do, you will get a "flare" at the top in the back and it will narrow the gap in the laces. The breasts need supporting by flattening your cup-curves just a bit. That way it will fit the bust well, AND fit the torso without overcinching.
I know why you're thinking you want to add it to the back... I get the logic that's tapping on your shoulder... but don't do it. The back looks great... which seriously means "leave it alone". The bust will redistribute with the reduced cupsize (which is miniscule, but will make all the difference) and the backfat is coming from having to overtighten the corset just to control the bust. Control the bust without overcinching, and the corset can be worn more gently (not so cinched) which will ease the overflow in back, make it more comfortable to wear, and keep her with a very sexy silhouette and an even-spaced backlacing.
I've made mistakes in every corset and bodice I've ever made... I feel like I'm inventing the wheel EVERYTIME, even when I *think* I thought it through SO WELL!
I'd recommend finding some of the corset/costume people around here... I really love JenThompson (find her in my friends list?) who does lovely work, including the occasional foundational garment.
Making MY OWN corset was hard enough. Making them for others? It's SO much harder. And, I think it's cool (and extra challenging) project for a male (SEAMister? ha!)sew-er to make!
Haha! I'm glad I'm not the only one! I wish there were classes on drafting a corset pattern (not from scale or photocopies, but actual pattern drafting), and all fit issues and how to fix them. I know Foundation's Revealed has a tutorial, but I haven't had much success with it, the ones I draft fro scratch seem to work better initially than the pattern I get from the tutorial, but that might just be me.
How do I access your friend list? I can't seem to click the button, haha.
It is pretty frustrating and challenging for me. I'm more into making structured garments, so corsets are just another step for me. It also doesn't help that I don't have a dress form... haha Thankfully I have a couple friends to help me learn!
I got into corsets through costuming, especially period costuming and fantasy costuming where corsets are pretty crucial. So that is where a lot of my info comes from. I can offer you some tips like:
Reply
Reply
Reply
Reply
front: https://tinyurl.com/ydacermt
back: https://tinyurl.com/yc5dqbee
Originally I drafted the corset to be more cupped, but had to reduce it at the underbust and bust more and more until it became like this. Even cinching it as much as we could, she said the bust support was just enough.
Reply
Reply
Visuals would be very nice, if you don't mind.
All the mockups were made from duck canvas purchased from JoAnn's. I think I should find a different mock-up fabric though, because the final corset in coutil is 2 inches smaller than I would've liked, so I assume the duck canvas stretched a lot, and I transferred all the changes to the pattern without realizing that. Using coutil as a mockup fabric is not an option, it's way too expensive! Do you have any recommendations for this problem too?
Reply
Reply
I'm a bit confused about not adding to the back. It already has a lot of back-fat spilling over, so if I were to take it in at the bust, wouldn't there be even more back-fat?
The Duck Canvas I use is 100% cotton, and I do prewash and dry on hot, and steam it to be sure again to be extra sure. It doesn't stretch when I pull it, at least barely. Could you explain the "snap" test?
Reply
Reply
The snap test seems like it will come in really handy!
Reply
I know why you're thinking you want to add it to the back... I get the logic that's tapping on your shoulder... but don't do it. The back looks great... which seriously means "leave it alone". The bust will redistribute with the reduced cupsize (which is miniscule, but will make all the difference) and the backfat is coming from having to overtighten the corset just to control the bust. Control the bust without overcinching, and the corset can be worn more gently (not so cinched) which will ease the overflow in back, make it more comfortable to wear, and keep her with a very sexy silhouette and an even-spaced backlacing.
Reply
Reply
I'd recommend finding some of the corset/costume people around here... I really love JenThompson (find her in my friends list?) who does lovely work, including the occasional foundational garment.
Making MY OWN corset was hard enough. Making them for others? It's SO much harder. And, I think it's cool (and extra challenging) project for a male (SEAMister? ha!)sew-er to make!
Reply
How do I access your friend list? I can't seem to click the button, haha.
It is pretty frustrating and challenging for me. I'm more into making structured garments, so corsets are just another step for me. It also doesn't help that I don't have a dress form... haha Thankfully I have a couple friends to help me learn!
Reply
Laughing Moon Patterns(Instructional DVD on sewing corsets SOLD HERE ( ... )
Reply
Leave a comment