Remember that period illustrations will always show the ideal form, not the real one. The ideal form is not reality - if you compare 1905-10 fashion plates with museum garments, they are almost unrecognizable as the same thing, but they are. Just like women of the 1830s actually did have shoulders, women of the 1900s actually did have spines.
A lot of the shape is achieved with padding - a hip pad and a ruffled corset cover will give you a lot of oomph. This link is Jen Thompson/Festive Attyre's take on Natural Form, but she used a 1900s pattern for a hip pad. You can see how much difference the right underwear makes.
The waistband will sit at the narrowest part of the body - even if that's on a slant. It can't go anywhere else: every other part is too wide. You do need to cut the skirt so it rises higher in back, otherwise it will hang funny.
La Couturier Parisienne has some period skirt patternsI highly, highly, highly recommend checking out a copy of the Edwardian Modiste by Francis
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You slip the waistband of the petticoat under the corset hook. The hook is an inch long and it's all held down by other clothes. You're not going to be doing gymnastics - it's not going anywhere. You don't use the hook on the visible skirt.
If you don't think the hook will hold, you can also put your petticoats on a yoke. That way the waist is one one-two layers thick and the floof happens further down.
Honestly, Corsets and Crinolines isn't my favorite, definitely don't spend $90 on it. It's only got two patterns that would be relevant for your costume - one 1901 S-bend (the 1908 corset pattern at the bottom of the marquise.de page I linked has much the same shape and is free - I've used it, it works if you're willing to fiddle a bit), and a later-Edwardian pattern from 1911 (this guy, side note: I wish Bridges on the Body was still posting).
Jill Salen's Corsets skips that decade almost completely, she's just got a few ribbon corsets. Mandy Barrington's Stays and Corsets stops too early (also, she drafts all her patterns too tall. Got the book out of the library and definitely won't be buying it).
Tragically, the Edwardian Modiste has corset covers but no corsets.
Atelier Sylphe drafts patterns from her collection of antique corsets. There are some really cool ones in there and several are from the right period. They're a bit spendy but the quality is good. They are single-size
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Sorry - I woke up too early - no idea how the small hooks worked. Perhaps they were just intended for laces, not for holding petticoats down? The lace is under a lot of tension and presumably wouldn't slip out the way a heavy petticoat might do?
ETA: If you're worried about petticoats escaping the hook, put them on a yoke. They'll be a lot more stable.
I also found that pattern and saved it to my pc. I knew it was from corsets and crinolines, but to think it was the only early edwardian pattern in the book you have saved me a load of money
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Remember that period illustrations will always show the ideal form, not the real one. The ideal form is not reality - if you compare 1905-10 fashion plates with museum garments, they are almost unrecognizable as the same thing, but they are. Just like women of the 1830s actually did have shoulders, women of the 1900s actually did have spines.
A lot of the shape is achieved with padding - a hip pad and a ruffled corset cover will give you a lot of oomph. This link is Jen Thompson/Festive Attyre's take on Natural Form, but she used a 1900s pattern for a hip pad. You can see how much difference the right underwear makes.
The waistband will sit at the narrowest part of the body - even if that's on a slant. It can't go anywhere else: every other part is too wide. You do need to cut the skirt so it rises higher in back, otherwise it will hang funny.
La Couturier Parisienne has some period skirt patternsI highly, highly, highly recommend checking out a copy of the Edwardian Modiste by Francis ( ... )
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If you don't think the hook will hold, you can also put your petticoats on a yoke. That way the waist is one one-two layers thick and the floof happens further down.
Reply
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Honestly, Corsets and Crinolines isn't my favorite, definitely don't spend $90 on it. It's only got two patterns that would be relevant for your costume - one 1901 S-bend (the 1908 corset pattern at the bottom of the marquise.de page I linked has much the same shape and is free - I've used it, it works if you're willing to fiddle a bit), and a later-Edwardian pattern from 1911 (this guy, side note: I wish Bridges on the Body was still posting).
Jill Salen's Corsets skips that decade almost completely, she's just got a few ribbon corsets. Mandy Barrington's Stays and Corsets stops too early (also, she drafts all her patterns too tall. Got the book out of the library and definitely won't be buying it).
Tragically, the Edwardian Modiste has corset covers but no corsets.
Atelier Sylphe drafts patterns from her collection of antique corsets. There are some really cool ones in there and several are from the right period. They're a bit spendy but the quality is good. They are single-size ( ... )
Reply
Sorry - I woke up too early - no idea how the small hooks worked. Perhaps they were just intended for laces, not for holding petticoats down? The lace is under a lot of tension and presumably wouldn't slip out the way a heavy petticoat might do?
ETA: If you're worried about petticoats escaping the hook, put them on a yoke. They'll be a lot more stable.
Reply
Reply
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