Which construction is best suitable for this corset?

[Yvonne De Rooij]

Over the last few weeks I have learned (theoretically) some different ways to construct a corset with the help of Linda Sparks's book and some internet websites.
I'll sum them up for you;

Comments

[mala_14]

I started out making rather heavy duty corsets with multiple layers, but have made lighter corsets as I became more experienced and really like them better. Victorian-era corsets (which were worn everyday and made by people who made corsets for a living) are usually much lighter than modern corsets. I find single layer of something really stable like coutil (or using coutil plus a thin fashion fabric on top to make it look prettier, but treating them as one layer) more comfortable and much easier to construct

[starrynight]

Out of curiosity, do you have a preference with layers? I personally like three or four because it supports me well. Then again, I have a big bust.

I also like the sandwich method for boning so my bones won't show on the outside.

[mala_14]

I make corsets for historical costuming, so I frequently skip a lining because I'm wearing a chemise underneath, which gets rid of one layer. But mostly my corsets are two layers, either two thinner layers (I've been experimenting with mixes of other thinner stable fabrics like poplin and pillow ticking.) or one of coutil with a light fashion fabric over it for looks. I tend to treat them as one layer though because I find it easier to construct that way, not having to match up the outer layer and inner layer. I've also made a couple underbusts that were just one layer

[starrynight]

I do historical costuming as well! I still include linings in corsets just for the heck of it, lol. Plus I am lazy about making chemises, it gets tedious as every time period has a different silouette and that gets reflected in chemises as well as stays and corsets.

[mala_14]

Cool! Historical costuming is so fun. I don't blame you for being lazy with chemises. They are SO boring to make. I only have a couple, like as few as possible to get by.

[starrynight]

Haha yeah, chemises are boring and totally not as fun to make as bodices or pretty skirts.

[ext_3749756]

Firstly thank you for the advice. Nice to know it can be done with less than 4 layers.
And oh my goodness that link you posted, that lady has a serious reduction so it seems when she is corseted.
And I checked the description of the individual corsets and it looks like 50/50 on single layer corsets and double layer corsets/fashion layer corsets.
I wonder if those corsets can hold up if they are worn 3 days a week.

And hand basting does seem like a chore, much easier to put two layers together and treat them like a single layer.

Do you use waist tape?

I was planning to use a combination of flat steel and spring steel bones; flat steel around the CF and CB and spring steel around curvier areas.
That's what I saw most people advise at least.

Thank you for the boning placement tip.

[mala_14]

I used a waist tape once and it seemed to give a more defined shape at the waist. But that may have been the design of the corset. The rest of my corsets do not have waist tapes. However, I have only been wearing my corsets for a few hours or one day at a time. It might be good for you to use a waist tape because you're planning on wearing your corset so frequently

[ext_3749756]

Sorry for the late reply, I wanted to thoroughly read all of the links you gave me before commenting. I had read some of the foundations revealed free articles before posting in this community, but not as many as you presented

[mala_14]

The tricky thing about corseting is that there really is no one right answer. It really depends on personal preference and what is comfortable for you and you can only figure that out by making and wearing corsets

[ext_3749756]

Indeed flat felling is a good idea. I'm not sure how much I can clip without weakening the seam and the boning channel though, google hasn't been very forthcoming and my book doesn't address it

[mala_14]

I just meant that you should grade the seams, like make it so the seam allowance underneath is smaller than the one you will be turning over top to form the boning channel. It will eliminate bulk and make it easier to sew the channels on the curved seams. See here:
https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/standard-flat-felled-seam

That sounds good for the roll pinning. I hope you keep us updated when you start making your corset!

[ext_3749756]

I understand what grading a seam means, it's just that what goes for garments that have no boning and not as much pressure put on the seams might not go for corsets that do.
In the example you showed me they clipped the seam allowance underneath so much that not even the top stitching would catch it.
I'm not sure that provides enough strength and stability for a corset.
Is this a method you have used, flat felled seam used as a boning channel I mean?
Did it work well? Or did you have trouble with stability and seams being a tad weak?

I've got most of the important details down now, so I'll be out of your hair soon enough and starting the pattern stage.

[mala_14]

Sorry, I didn't mean to get too simplistic with explaining things. I just wasn't sure if I was describing things clearly. I think I've always graded my seams when using the seam allowances for boning casings or even just felling the seams and using something else as casings. The coutil is very tightly woven, so you won't have to worry about it fraying into the seam. And a single layer of it is more than enough to keep the boning secure. I think the weakest point of a corset with this sort of seam is the stitching, not the fabric. Felling would increase stability because there are more lines of stitching, but you will probably see the strain on the initial stitching of the seam.

Seeing the questions that new corset makers have is always really interesting! It makes me re-think how I put things together and think about different ways of doing things. :)

[ext_3749756]

That was exactly what I needed to hear. Thanks :)

My background is in sewing many dresses, blouses and skirts for myself.
In fashion school we learned to draft and sew all kinds of garments, including trousers and coats.
I can't remember ever having to worry about strain on the seams, and we never even addressed boning of any type. Not even when I did an internship at a bridal atelier.

But corsetry is just so different.

I'll post progress shots if that is not against community policy.
I still have to do a lot of steps before I get to that point though.
Thank you again for your help.