Simple Twist
I wanted to love Simple Twist. I really did. After all, we're huge believers in championing nearby small businesses, especially restauranteurs that are committed to sourcing locally. But the truth is, food here is wildly inconsistent.
The 'Simple Cheeseburger'
Inside is warm and inviting. Walls are a welcoming blue, trim is rustic hewn wood, corrugated metal wainscoting echoes the pressed tin ceiling tiles. Flooring is a serviceable laminate made to look as if the planks might have been harvested from an old factory. Tucked in the back corner is a faux fireplace, embellished with a salvaged mantle and stacked stone panels reaching to the ceiling. Music festival posters are framed down the legth of the wall. In addition to the tables in the main dining area, there is also a dog friendly patio, covered by a large pergola. During peak times be aware that wait staff clogs the bar area and the main dining room can get a little loud.
This being my third trip, it's seemed necessary to try the reimagined signature guacamole I'd read so much about. While I did not expect a mega-molcajete to appear on our table, the small dish we received had no more than a few heaped tablespoons in it. What's worse is that the near flavorless mixture ($6) was paved with flaccid, cold bits of bacon and a liberal sprinkling of Danish blue cheese. While I'm a HUGE lover of blue cheese, it felt disjointed...as if the avocado had suffered some sort of identity crisis. A roasted tomatillo salsa with a sharp bite also accompanied the tortilla chips on our plate, but that alone was not enough to save the appetizer.
It was another 'Girls Day', so I recommended to Mom a Cohiba Havana sandwich ($9.50) we'd had on a previous visit. My thinking was that it would be reliably good. D had enjoyed it...a split length of bread, generously dressed with roasted pork, Black Forest ham, pickles, mustard, jalapenos and melded together with Swiss. Despite my misgivings she also opted for the fries as her side. In the past, the fries been so aggressively seasoned that at least one patron sitting near us had sent them back. Bottom line is that the sandwich this time was a disappointment. The fries, I'm happy to say, have been corrected.
Another sandwich I'd had high hopes for was the Roast Beast ($10.50). One can only hope a festive sounding Seussian-inspired entree would be lavished in top sirloin, sluiced with horseradish cream, blanketed in Havarti, grilled mushrooms and caramelized onion. Sadly, that was not the case. There was a disproportionate amount of bread to filling and what was inside was very timidly seasoned.
All is not lost, though. The burgers as a whole seem flavorful, nicely charred, thoughtfully dressed and cooked-to-order. The Twist ($7.50 for a small) did have a decidedly strange take on pimento cheese, though. Maybe I'm a purist, but I believe there is a culinary ethos that deigns sharp cheddar needs to be used.
As much as I hate to say it, seems like the eclectic menu might too ambitious for their chef. *sigh*
227 E Market St, Smithfield
(919) 938-0377
Related Smithfield/Selma restaurant reviews:
* Crazy Taco, Smithfield
* Holt Lake BBQ and Seafood, Smithfield/Four Oaks
* Gandolfo's Deli, Smithfield (Now Gotham Deli, same management)
* Zack's Char-Grill, Smithfield
* La Cocina #2, Smithfield
* White Swan Restaurant, Smithfield/Wilson's Mills
* The Chicken Barn Golden Fried, Smithfield
* Heidi's Two Wheel Café, Smithfield
* Millie's Hotdogs, Smithfield
* Sweet Frog, Smithfield
* El Sombrero, Smithfield (partial review)
* Hills of Snow, Smithfield
* Popcorn Haven, Smithfield
* Anna's Gourmet Banana Bread, Smithfield
* Hibachi Buffet, Smithfield (Now closed)
* Boathouse Seafood and Grill, Smithfield (Now closed)
* Hula Girl Ice Cream and Grill, Selma (Now closed)
* Edelweiss Deli and Sweetened Celebrations, Selma (Now closed)
* Sami's Pizza, Selma
* Lucky Chicken, Selma (Peruvian ceviche only)
The 'Simple Cheeseburger'
Inside is warm and inviting. Walls are a welcoming blue, trim is rustic hewn wood, corrugated metal wainscoting echoes the pressed tin ceiling tiles. Flooring is a serviceable laminate made to look as if the planks might have been harvested from an old factory. Tucked in the back corner is a faux fireplace, embellished with a salvaged mantle and stacked stone panels reaching to the ceiling. Music festival posters are framed down the legth of the wall. In addition to the tables in the main dining area, there is also a dog friendly patio, covered by a large pergola. During peak times be aware that wait staff clogs the bar area and the main dining room can get a little loud.
This being my third trip, it's seemed necessary to try the reimagined signature guacamole I'd read so much about. While I did not expect a mega-molcajete to appear on our table, the small dish we received had no more than a few heaped tablespoons in it. What's worse is that the near flavorless mixture ($6) was paved with flaccid, cold bits of bacon and a liberal sprinkling of Danish blue cheese. While I'm a HUGE lover of blue cheese, it felt disjointed...as if the avocado had suffered some sort of identity crisis. A roasted tomatillo salsa with a sharp bite also accompanied the tortilla chips on our plate, but that alone was not enough to save the appetizer.
It was another 'Girls Day', so I recommended to Mom a Cohiba Havana sandwich ($9.50) we'd had on a previous visit. My thinking was that it would be reliably good. D had enjoyed it...a split length of bread, generously dressed with roasted pork, Black Forest ham, pickles, mustard, jalapenos and melded together with Swiss. Despite my misgivings she also opted for the fries as her side. In the past, the fries been so aggressively seasoned that at least one patron sitting near us had sent them back. Bottom line is that the sandwich this time was a disappointment. The fries, I'm happy to say, have been corrected.
Another sandwich I'd had high hopes for was the Roast Beast ($10.50). One can only hope a festive sounding Seussian-inspired entree would be lavished in top sirloin, sluiced with horseradish cream, blanketed in Havarti, grilled mushrooms and caramelized onion. Sadly, that was not the case. There was a disproportionate amount of bread to filling and what was inside was very timidly seasoned.
All is not lost, though. The burgers as a whole seem flavorful, nicely charred, thoughtfully dressed and cooked-to-order. The Twist ($7.50 for a small) did have a decidedly strange take on pimento cheese, though. Maybe I'm a purist, but I believe there is a culinary ethos that deigns sharp cheddar needs to be used.
As much as I hate to say it, seems like the eclectic menu might too ambitious for their chef. *sigh*
227 E Market St, Smithfield
(919) 938-0377
Related Smithfield/Selma restaurant reviews:
* Crazy Taco, Smithfield
* Holt Lake BBQ and Seafood, Smithfield/Four Oaks
* Gandolfo's Deli, Smithfield (Now Gotham Deli, same management)
* Zack's Char-Grill, Smithfield
* La Cocina #2, Smithfield
* White Swan Restaurant, Smithfield/Wilson's Mills
* The Chicken Barn Golden Fried, Smithfield
* Heidi's Two Wheel Café, Smithfield
* Millie's Hotdogs, Smithfield
* Sweet Frog, Smithfield
* El Sombrero, Smithfield (partial review)
* Hills of Snow, Smithfield
* Popcorn Haven, Smithfield
* Anna's Gourmet Banana Bread, Smithfield
* Hibachi Buffet, Smithfield (Now closed)
* Boathouse Seafood and Grill, Smithfield (Now closed)
* Hula Girl Ice Cream and Grill, Selma (Now closed)
* Edelweiss Deli and Sweetened Celebrations, Selma (Now closed)
* Sami's Pizza, Selma
* Lucky Chicken, Selma (Peruvian ceviche only)