Hibachi Buffet
Billed as elegant on the website, the Hibachi Buffet is a sight to see. Following a remodel to remove some of the more unusual features--including a monstrous water display at the entrance--the restaurant reopened to a bustling crowd. Although the menu has been revamped, the décor is still in dire, dire need of a 'make under'.
As we are being led to our table, gentle, lilting flute melodies give way to a piano score. The dining room is worn and slightly tattered, but not horrible. What stands out most here is the massive and ostenatious crystal chandelier hanging above the eight balloon-festooned buffets. The tray ceiling in this part of the dining area is illuminated with garish neon lights...lights made tragically more 1980s thanks in part to the nearby faceted mirrored columns and bands of black and white checkered tiles. (Vans shoes, anyone?). Toward the back stands a partition wall of ever-changing neon fiber optics enclosed in heavy acrylic cylinders. If I didn't know better, I would think I'd been transported back in a time to a three-decades ago roller-rink.
But that's not what important, right? I'm here to talk about the food. Let's start with the good stuff. For starters, there is an impressive green and composed salad section and a handsomely iced and garnished raw bar. Don't miss the robustly spiced black pepper chicken. It's really good. Or the baked salmon. Also worth noting in the fresh fruit and dessert selection. What we come for is mostly the sushi though. Oh, and those Chinese donuts. Don't miss them. They can be found on the back buffet, amid more savory entrees. Each bite of these donuts is like a revelation. Seriously. Get there early, and it's like devouring a warm, enveloping cloud of fragrant cinnamon and nutmeg.
Least liked was the spears of pollock masquerading as crab.....chalky and plain bad. And don't bother with the mushroom caps or stuffed shrimp. The rest of the entrees ranged from passably good to mediocre. Because I'm not one to end on a bad note, I will say that service was attentive and great care seems to be taken in insuring everything remains filled to the brim. Not only that but the the staff seems fastidious about cleaning the buffets.
Bottom line is if you wish to go, it's worth seeking out a coupon in the monthly promotional circulars. Our lunch visit was only $5.99 per person, plus drinks.
1273 N Brightleaf Blvd, Smithfield
(919) 938-1668
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