First Bite: Heidi's Two Wheel Cafe

Aug 03, 2013 16:57




I'm always amused by the dichotomy of dive bars. They are generally rough and tumble places, packed with scrappy folks that often have a heart of gold. Walking into Heidi's this afternoon and it was really no different. Once we got past the belch of stale smoke--there is a covered patio adjacent to the main entrance where smoking is permitted--we stepped into the main dining area. Inside, a gruff-looking, leather-clad biker nursed a beer at the bar while a television in the corner softly played children's programming.

Heidi's is not fancy. Not one little bit. The low slung, shake-covered building is rudimentary at best. Imagine dingy popcorn ceilings, battered wood-plank flooring, mismatched seating, taxidermied game animals, and fading promotional posters. Colorful epithets of past patrons are scrawled across an entire section of orange wall, much like a high-school senior's yearbook. Banding the front is a narrow brick porch.

Decor is clearly not what keeps the regulars coming back. Nope, it's the food. And the sincerity. Our waitress today was so warm and personable. The owner, from what I can tell from the restaurant's Facebook page, seems to be very caring and genuine. She raises money regularly for charitable causes, appears to be universally loved and is a big animal advocate. In my mind, of course, I have her pictured as a stout, wiry-haired and heavily inked biker chick with a smoldering cigarette forever dangling from her lips. I picture she shouts out completed orders from the kitchen pass with the graveled rasp of a two-pack a day habit. The reality, of course, is probably far different but that's where my writer's mind goes with it....

Speaking of writing, Heidi's menu is funny. It makes it clear that although they welcome children--and indeed, as the day wears on more families come in--that the establishment is first and foremost a bar. You are told not to expect everyone to behave as if they are boyscouts and cautioned that while 'schmucks' are not tolerated, there may be instances where you might hear foul language and that political correctness is not always observed. Parents are cautioned not to leave their little ones unattended lest they wish them to be exiled into service as dishwashers. Heidi also makes it clear that everything is at her discretion, inclusive of taking phone orders. A sign on the airconditioner admonishes that if you are cold it is your responsibility to move. Basically, this place is full of good natured sass. If you have delicate sensibilities, well, it's probably not your kinda' stop.

Lunch today was good. Brew Town? Bottlecaps ($6 on the appetizer menu) were excellent. Essentially, they are rings of jalapeno pepper dipped in a spicy beer batter and deep fried. The ample servings come with a loose cup of ranch. I had the Black and Bleu Burger ($7.25) pictured above. It was made from freshly ground beef, on a split Kaiser roll. The patty was backyard barbecue hefty. I would've liked for the meat to be more heavily seasoned and the Bleu cheese spread was not as sharp or piquant as I might expect. Little disappointing. All sandwich entrees include fries, by the way. For an extra $1.00, you can opt for house made? pub chips or onion rings. Darryl had a delicious French Dip ($8.50) with melted swiss and au jus.

Overall? It's a place we'd definitely eat again.

1475 W Market St Smithfield, NC 27577
(919) 989-8389
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