http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bd/Hans_Memling_020.jpg This is the dress I want to make for Prova. It dates to around the end of the 15th Century (~1473) and the artist was Hans Melming from Flanders. I like the houppelande type shape but this dress doesn't have as much bulk I think. Also, the sleeves are narrow and so won't be as much of a pain to wear after a few minutes of looking stately. I'm thinking a black gown with white edging and a blue underdress or a blue gown with white edging and a black underdress. My guess is that the original is wool, it has that kind of bulky drape, but I don't want to wear wool around central California at any time of year so I'm thinking linen for all layers with maybe silk for the edging to dress it up a bit. I may not do the white band around the bottom since that's asking for trouble, but if I do, it'll probably be Scotchgard-ed.