The Modern Face of NYC Designers
Originally published at Chic-Chic-Store.com. Please leave any comments there.
This past fashion week we had the privilege of experiencing a variety of fashion industry events. This is the time of year to recognize the world of fashion and specifically its hardworking designers. Some, like the big name designers at the Bryant Park runway shows are gushed over by every media outlet, and others, like the design teams plugging away in the Garment Center for manufactures, retailers, and mainstream brands are often featured here on our little blog. However, today we’d like to focus on the independent designers who are trying to build a label and succeed (often with little corporate backing but immense talent) in New York City.
First up, we visited the Garment Center installation featuring a collective of emerging NYC designers. The show was called, Made in NYC: Past, Present, and Future. The lines of three local designers, Francoise Olivas, Gina De Silva, and Eva Khurshid (designs pictured in order above), all not only run their business from here, but pledged to continue producing their lines in the Garment Center. We only wish we had been able to spend more time here but we were very impressed with the message, as well as, the pieces. It was sad to see how tight the budget clearly was for this event and for designers in general in this city. The show was rightfully held in an old factory loft in our neighborhood, with Anna Sui and Nanette Lepore donating display pieces. Still it was evident that they unfortunately did not receive the big corporate sponsors they really do deserve. Launching, running, and producing a clothing line in this city is no longer easily accessible, and bravo to these designers for doing it. Additionally we must mention that at the event, they screened a part of the new HBO documentary, SCHMATTA:Rags to Riches to Rags, which is a fascinating look at the history of manufacturing in the Garment Center. Check out the teaser for the movie…
We were also honored to be invited to a private studio showing of Christian Francis Roth’s new collection, for his francis line. Christian (pictured below playing with some new fabric) is another talented and innovative New York based designer whose studio is located in the heart of the Garment Center. For you young-ins who may not remember, Christian was a huge star on the fashion scene in the 1990’s, and while in his early twenties he won the coveted CFDA “Perry Ellis Award for New Talent.” Many of his pieces are considered classics and are on display at the Met’s Costume Institute. Now he is back with his new eclectic and whimsical line, francis.
As we all too well know, in this industry, success is measured season by season, which makes it exceptionally hard for independent designers to compete. In this market, many of us have faced downsizing, company bankruptcies, cancelled lines and the outlook can feel bleak. However, Christian’s new line was a welcome reminder that as times change, new and often better opportunities can arise. Often we learn and cut our teeth in the early years of our careers and come back smarter and wiser. Take a look at the francis line here and I think you’ll agree that Christian has really hit on something wonderful.
Check out the images of Christian’s studio below and you will see a far different experience than many of us have in the corporate world of fashion. No cavernous showrooms, suited sales teams, beige conference rooms or monotonous cubicles here. Yet, familiarly there are body forms in place, walls labeled with mood board themes for the collection, and sketches posted about. There were also packages for China prepared, which makes Christian the perfect example of how many local designers find the expense to produce domestically too high for them to stay profitable. This situation is another reason to help support efforts being made to Save the Garment Center and make manufacturing affordable for our independent designers. And of course despite the fact that it was 8′oclock in the evening, no one blinked that people were still working on finishing product. For those of us who work in fashion, we know a 9-5 day is a fallacy.
Not only was meeting Christian and seeing his line a privilege but so was meeting up with several fabulous bloggers who we’ve been dying to meet like Midtown Girl, Jessica from What I Wore, and Alixrose. So thank you to the lovely Wendy Brandes for setting up this event and making sure champagne flowed, as we all enjoyed the company. After a scrumptious meal, (sans Christian who of course was working away) we got to spend some time with Jennine of The Coveted, Jordana of Clutch 22 (pictured below with Wendy trying on a stunning plaid francis frock), the Fasshonaburu ladies and more. For more on this event check out the francis blog, which Wendy B is so kind to run as well
Source: 39th and Broadway