Culinary Tidbits---Zuppa Inglese

Aug 03, 2004 04:31

I know... I have been very bad about doing this on a daily basis. Been a bit busy between the job and the garden and assorted other household chores so I have been on the computer very little.

Anyway... Today's Culinary Tidbits are brought to you by the letter "Z"

Today's Culinary Lingo

Zuppa Inglese
[ZOO-puh ihn-GLAY-zay]
Literally translated as "English soup," this Italian dish is, in fact, a refrigerated dessert similar to the British favorite, TRIFLE. It's made with rum-sprinkled slices of sponge cake layered with a rich custard or whipped cream (or both) and candied fruit or toasted almonds (or both).


Trifle
[TRI-fuhl]
Originally from England, this dessert consists of SPONGE CAKE or LADYFINGERS doused with spirits (usually sherry), covered with jam and custard, topped with whipped cream and garnished with candied or fresh fruit, nuts or grated chocolate. Trifle is refrigerated for several hours before serving.

Sponge Cake; Spongecake
This light, airy cake gets its ethereal texture from beaten egg whites, which are folded into a fluffy mixture of beaten egg yolks and sugar. They get their leavening power entirely from eggs. Sponge cakes are further characterized by the fact that they do not contain shortening of any kind. The cakes can be variously flavored with anything from lemon ZEST to ground almonds.

Zest
The perfumy outermost skin layer of citrus fruit (usually oranges or lemons), which is removed with the aid of a citrus zester, paring knife or vegetable peeler. Only the colored portion of the skin (and not the white pith) is considered the zest. The aromatic oils in citrus zest are what add so much flavor to food. Zest can be used to flavor raw or cooked and sweet or savory dishes.

Ladyfinger
A light, delicate sponge cake roughly shaped like a rather large, fat finger. It's used as an accompaniment to ice cream, puddings and other desserts. Ladyfingers are also employed as an integral part of some desserts, such as CHARLOTTES. Ladyfingers can be made at home or purchased in bakeries or supermarkets.

Charlotte
[SHAR-luht]
This classic molded dessert begins with a mold lined with SPONGE CAKE, LADYFINGERS or buttered bread. The traditional Charlotte container is pail-shaped, but almost any mold is acceptable. The lined mold is then filled with layers (or a mixture) of fruit and custard or whipped cream that has been fortified with gelatin. The dessert is chilled thoroughly and unmolded before serving. Charlotte russe, said to have been created for the Russian Czar Alexander, is a ladyfinger shell filled with the ethereal Bavarian cream, and decorated elaborately with whipped-cream rosettes. The classic apple Charlotte is a buttered-bread shell filled with spiced, sautéed apples. Unlike other charlottes, this one is baked and served hot.

All of the above are © Copyright Barron's Educational Services, Inc. 1995 based on THE FOOD LOVER'S COMPANION, 2nd edition, by Sharon Tyler Herbst.

Today's Recipe

ZUPPA INGLESE
The origin of this luscious dessert, which resembles an English trifle (the name translates as "English soup"), is most likely with the homesick Victorians who fled the cold English climate for the warmth of Italy. In this signature Neapolitan version, the sponge cake is soaked with rum and layered with chocolate-cinnamon and vanilla-orange custards. If you can't find sponge cake, two pound cakes can be used. For a decorative touch, pipe a whipped cream border around the edge of the dessert before serving.



Pastry Creams
4 cups milk (do not use low-fat or nonfat)
1 cup plus 6 tablespoons sugar
10 large egg yolks
2/3 cup all purpose flour
3 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon grated orange peel

Syrup
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup dark rum

1 9-inch-diameter sponge cake (3 inches high)

2 cups chilled whipping cream
Chocolate shavings (optional)
Chopped candied fruit (optional)

For Pastry Creams:
Bring milk and 1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar to boil in heavy large saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat. Whisk yolks with remaining 1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar in large bowl to blend. Sift flour into yolk mixture and whisk to blend. Gradually whisk in hot milk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan and whisk over medium heat until custard boils and thickens, about 2 minutes. Divide custard between 2 medium bowls. Add chocolate and cinnamon to custard in 1 bowl and stir until chocolate melts. Add vanilla and orange peel to custard in second bowl and stir to blend. Press plastic wrap onto surface of each custard and chill until cold, at least 4 hours.

For Syrup:
Stir 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water and sugar in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat and bring to boil. Cool. Mix in rum.

Cut sponge cake vertically into 3/8-inch-thick slices. Arrange enough cake slices on bottom of 16-cup glass bowl to cover in single layer. Brush 6 tablespoons syrup over. Spread half of orange cream over cake. Top with another layer of cake slices. Brush with 7 tablespoons syrup. Spread remaining chocolate cream over. Top with another layer of cake slices. Brush with 7 tablespoons syrup. Spread remaining orange cream over. Top with enough remaining cake slices. Brush with 7 tablespoons syrup. Spread remaining chocolate cream over. Top with enough remaining cake slices to cover. Brush 7 tablespoons syrup over. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.

Whip 2 cups chilled cream in medium bowl to soft peaks. Spread cream over cake. Garnish with chocolate shavings and candied fruit, if desired.

Serves 12.

© Copyright Bon Appétit--May 1995

Today's Culinary Tip
Wrap your grater with plastic food wrap when grating citrus zest (or ginger and similar fruits or vegetables). The zest will cling to the wrap when you pull it off.
Thomas Keller, from 1,001 Secrets of Great Cooks, by Jean Anderson; The Berkley Publishing Group: 1995).
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