Nov 13, 2012 23:05
How much do I love turkey necks? A lot, that's for true! I love 'em smothered in ghetto-rific rich gravy that them neckbones give up all by themselves. Oh, when our Louisiana street corner groceries boil 'em in crab boil spices, that's some mighty fine eating -- shredding the tender dark meat off those fragile bones. I will devour turkey necks anywhere I see them, and I love them with grits. A soul food classic!
Naturally, as a hoops player for life, I am a very competitive person, but I always appreciate what everybody does. Like I say, I haven't had any bad turkey necks, but what could I do as a so-called fine dining chef to make the best dang turkey necks that I can do? Well...
Well, turkey necks make a devastatingly good gravy. So I decided to give them a little mirepoix help (onions, celery & carrots) plus turnips & garlic browned in the pot after searing off them necks, with tomato paste & Marsala wine. Let simmer about two hours covered to braise in the oven. Tender meat, pulling off with a gentle tug, dark rich and a whisper of dry Marsala sweetness caressing the meat; vegetables just holding their shape. Good times, agreed? Well, then let's add black truffles. Because even a humble turkey neck, so dark & tender, deserves the opulent aroma of truffles. Blue jeans & diamonds, you know?
Then to just mess with your mind, we confront you with extraordinary grits. Actually, are they grits? See, we started passing jasmine rice through a home brew grinder to turn them into the same coarse, sandy texture as corn grits. Cooked this way, the resulting white, creamy porridge looks like a dead ringer for grits but swings the unmistakable aroma & touch of shiny sweetness of rice right at you, but it's baffling to the senses bcuz we are all so conditioned to think of grits as they always are. Our "rice grits" stop you in your tracks, both familiar & positively alluring in its unusual yet obvious rice flavor.
I was asked to think about celebrating Thanksgiving ideas in a locally sourced food (Locavore is the coined word!) universe, so I immediately decided to call it "What If the Pilgrims Had Landed in New Orleans?!" Feast, and we debuted a bunch of dishes tonight at Serendipity. I had run these turkey necks before, and it's funny how often I get stopped in grocery stores or out & about and asked about when we will feature them necks again. Haha it might be a hot summer day, and I will say "just wait for the late spell of Autumn or our "somewhat imaginary" winter times in Nola.' So we sold a good number of necks tonight and I hope we keep rolling them out. I love to win vs my ideas about what awesome things I can create. Turkey necks in Marsala & black truffles served with our hypnotic jasmine rice grits. Now i can check that off the 'bucket list' of my dream dishes perfected & ready to seduce minds, installing memories that make us love New Orleans even more.
Enjoy this story behind my longstanding love of soulful turkey necks. Catch y'all soon @ Serendipity. Not to mention the rest of the holiday menu, such as our Three Sister Stew, and our bourbon-fueled brown butter on pan-seared Gulf Fish for our 'Old-Fashioned Whiskey Menuiere' sauce, served with real oyster dressing. Turning cocktails like the timeless Old-Fashioned into food...yeah you right! Make a reservation at (504) 407-0818!
PS We all mourn the passing of legendary drummer, bandleader, raconteur and New Orleans treasure trove of music as Bob French passed after a long illness. He was instrumental in the revival of our booming brass bands, and was a great ambassador for our jazz & culture. I loved listening to him as a deejay on WWOZ 90.7FM, even when he was cranky! Truly a legend and take a moment to say praise in Bob's deep gifts he gave to us here in New Orleans. Our thoughts go out in mercy to the family, especially to the musicians he raised -- in his own talented offspring and to the musicians Bob French mentored. Our New Orleans is a better place bcuz of his skill, passion, and fierce dedication to the soul of New Orleans. Stay tuned to WWOZ, especially today (Wed. Nov 14) at 11 AM, for celebrations of the music & legacy of Mr Bob French! It's gonna be a great funeral for a local hero...