Search for the Spider Pool
Awhile back a friend posted a link (NSFW) to the urban archaeological find known as the Spider Pool. Located somewhere in the Hollywood Hills, it was the site of numerous pin-up photo shoots from the late 40s to the early 60s with it’s chief feature being a large wall mosaic of a spider. What better a setting for these dangerously sexy women?
The place of course has quite a lore, even beyond its possible claim as the origin of the California porn industry - built by an eccentric actor out of old movie sets, site of famed Harold Lloyd pin-up of Tura Santana (Faster Pussy Cat Kill Kill). But for me, the thrill was in the fact that this place, or at least the spider wall portion still existed, a forgotten monument of Hollywood sin.
So having done a bit of research I had a vague notion of the general location of the site. Many of the online source fall sort of revealing it’s exact location to prevent it from becoming over run (by people like me) and cause it’s potential damage or increased security as getting there requires trespass. I packed a messenger bag with printouts of certain blogs and pin-up photos, binoculars, camera, laptop, and a sparkling water (hey this is a Hollywood adventure after all).
My first destination was Lake Hollywood, where I knew certain portions of the spider wall could be visible from a ridge above the reservoir. Winding through some residential streets I finally came to a clearing where I had a spectacular view of the Hollywood sign. I think I may have stumbled across one of it’s access roads. I stepped out of my car to take some pics and scan the hills when a car drove up. As I stood next to the no trespassing sign, I felt a wave of relief that I had not proceeded up the hill. I was certain it was LAPD.
But I was wrong. It was a cab. An older woman and what I presume were her 20-something daughter and husband stepped out of the car and started conversing in rapid French while the cab driver got on the radio speaking some other language in which every third word seemed to be Hollywood. Having lived in Southern California most of my life, I had forgotten that the Hollywood sign is a tourist destination of its own. Actually this was a recurring theme of my adventure, as I seemed to be visiting many of the off-the-beaten-track Hollywood tourist destinations. While I was peering through my binoculars searching for some glint of spider pool tile, the person next too me was hoping to catch a glimpse of Angelina Jolie or some other star.
In any event, while the site by the sign afforded great views of the sign, I really couldn’t see well into the next valley - I did however spot a nice overlook over Lake Hollywood which I knew must be the place of the first Spider pool sighing. I got back in my car and proceeded on. I parked across from what must be the most glamorous dog park in the world - large expanse of grass just under the Hollywood sign. I’m sure if I went there I would certainly meet the next Lassie or Rin Tin Tin - perhaps a future trip for Thurston, but myself, I headed up to the overlook.
Again I was greeted by an odd mix of tourists - yes looking for Angelina Jolie, apparently she owns a house visible from here - no mention though if it featured a spider mosaic. I also listened in on a private tour guide pointing out the places visible that were featured in Chinatown and other films. It dawned on me that Hollywood has its own brand of archeology. Instead of tombs buried under centuries of dust, there are movie locations stripped bare of their tinsel. there is the site of a famous battle, here is the site where the famous battle was recreated and staged.
With binoculars and camera I scanned the opposite hill sides for any clues of the Spider pool, but unfortunately it was a rather hazy and glare-filled day and had a hard time making out major structures let alone Hollywood ruins. Still I had an idea where the place might be - somewhere in those opposite hills. So I set off again.
Now I started realizing the limitations of my high-tech tools. I thought Google maps on my cell phone would be sufficient to guide me through the convoluted roads, but the hilly terrain made my cell phone useless, so I just ambled through residential neighborhoods with the additional challenge of being narrow steep pathways wide enough for only one car at a time. There were few places to stop, get out and survey the surrounds.
After being dumped out in Hollywood proper - and snapping a few pics of the man admonishing me to repent - I thought I’d stick to the main thoroughfare and get a sense of location from it. So Mulholland drive it was. You know, I don’t think I’ve ever taken this road before and I found it to be another delightful tourist indulgence with periodic turn-offs and view spots, I got a few great glances of Downtown LA and the San Fernando Valley.
Here’s where the blog printouts and pin-up photos helped. (imagine if you will, a scenic overlook - tourists pointing out the buildings of Universal Studios below while a middle aged man sits in his car looking at 1950’s nudy pics). It was clear the Spider pool overlooked the San Fernando Valley, at a point south of universal studios. Those neighborhoods I was driving through may well have lead to the Spider Pool, but I would need to conduct more research and identify some more landmarks to close in on my quest.
So I returned home, not defeated but satisfied that I had established a base camp for my quest so that next time I can be better prepared and maybe have assistants to help guide the way