Milano - Special "No Foto" Edition

Jul 22, 2011 18:45

Today went to two of Milan's art galleries, the Brera and the Ambrosiana. Forewarned that photos would not be permitted, and following up on some advice from corbaegirl, I took a couple of extra sheets of paper to make notes about what I would have liked to take pictures of.

Pinacoteca di Brera
- in the Valle Romita polyptych, a Mary Magdalene whose dress is actually purple. Say what you like about purple, and whether a color that we moderns would call purple can be produced with period dyes, it doesn't really show up too often in period paintings of garments. This was a sort of dusky color, a bit too intense to be called lavender but not the deep jewel tone of a modern purple.
- a Saint Sebastian by Liberale da Verona (ca. 1445-1527) with lively scenes of everyday life in renaissance Venice behind the main subject - ladies with their hair piled up in the traditional Venetian fashion peering out from balconies, gentlemen riding around in gondolas, young men showing off their fancy hosen, etc.
- a Disputation of Saint Stephen by Vittore Carpaccio with various imaginary monuments in the background, including a thingy shaped exactly like the Eiffel Tower (only in stone, not steel)
- a Moses Saved from the Water by Veronese (first half of the sixteenth century) with quite a large number of the figures wearing striped garments
- the Pala Sforzesco, by an unknown artist. Having now seen it with my own eyes, I can accept that the painting of the striped dress with the prodigious number of peach-colored points does really exist, though I would still like to find out more about its back story.
- beautiful wood paneled library with cases of books going up two storeys.

Pinacoteca Ambrosiana
- early seventeenth century German anthropormorphic figures, made of seashells and insect parts, each in something about the size of a large sardine tin. Think Arcimboldo in 3D and you will be heading in the right direction. Only with actual bug parts. Yech!
- very large rosary of rhino horn beads (each about the size of the first joint of my thumb) interspersed with armillary spheres and zodiac signs.
- a Madonna of the Towers by Bramantino, with a great big dead toad on its back in the foreground (apparently it is supposed to represent the Devil, slain by the Archangel Michael)
- armillary spheres, an astrolabe, an automaton of Diana the Huntress, and a reliquary (nothing else to call it, really) with a lock of Lucrezia Borgia's beautiful blonde hair*, **
- gloves worn by Napoleon at Waterloo, and a dagger used by some guy to assassinate one of the renaissance Visconti or Sforza dukes.
- A LIBRARY
- the cast of "Girl Genius" would approve: Leonardo's notebooks included studies of various mechanisms and a page with "sketches on compound shadows and their motions; and curious sketches of twenty-three different hats" (emphasis mine)

*notwithstanding I see she is being played by a redhead in the current production of "The Borgias"
**I felt no more moved by it than I would by any other lock of hair of any color in an overly-fancy reliquary, but apparently George Gordon, Lord Byron was quite taken with it.

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