I managed to find a US distributor who had copies of the long awaited recent posthumous publication of Janet Arnold's:
Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660.... and so I bought one (along with 30 yds of 3/4 inch white linen tape primarily for wrist ruffs for the red dress but secondarily for any construction needs I may have afterwards).
That was my first mistake. My second mistake was flipping slowly through the book to ogle the pictures. Soon I will complete the trifecta of bad moves by actually READING it.
This may result in a complete (very very very long term) stitch overhaul of the red dress as the details of the sewing complexity and skill shown in every single example in the book is absolutely staggering. As it was I was not entirely satisfied with the construction level, now I'm positively embarrassed.
It will most certainly generate an overhaul of my chemise.
I'm a little disappointed in how skewed towards post 1600 it is, but when you're working with extant examples you don't have a lot of choice I suppose.
The book is dazzling, but I may in fact go insane. Just warning everyone ahead of time.