Ladder Laced Update: Sleeves part two... almost there!
I realized that there's been rather a lot of sewing since my last update so I figured it was time to check in and toss up some pictures (all pictures are gargantuan).
I've been working on the top third of my sleeves for something like three weeks now. In this time I have individually flatlined all of the panes for the upper sleeves, constructed the tabs for the shoulder, and completed the gold-work on the sleeve panes. My current stop-up is deciding how best to hold together the armscye of the sleeve but I think I've finally made a decision on that.
The sleeve panes
I used the last set of panes I worked on as illustration of the technique:
Here is the inner back of the pane. I am shaping the shell fabric to the interlining
Here is the inner back after the seam allowance of the shell has been shaped to the interlining
Here is the lining pinned into place with seam allowances folded under but not stitched yet
Here are the completed panes from the back
Here are the completed panes from the front
Those were the last (and smallest) of the 12 panes I had to put together.
Here are all of the panes completed and roughly whip stitched together at the edges so that they would not get mixed up and out of order.
The full sleeve
Here is the effectively completed sleeve with the panes stitched to the top edge of the sleeve body
Here is the (rather wrinkled) sleeve with the gold-work completed ready to be closed up into the classic sleeve shape.
Here are two of the shoulder tabs which were basically made as stubby flattened tubes (rather then turn and face all of them as well). There are ten in total, which will have lines of gold-work applied along the dark blue stitching and then will be folded in half (as illustrated by the tab on the right) and sewn to the very top edge of the sleeve, with the tops angling in towards the neck.
All that remains (ha!) at this point is to:
attach the sleeve together at the top edge
do the gold-work on the tabs
attach the tabs
create the lacing points to attach the sleeve and shoulder strap.
I have been wrestling with the next step for a while, but I think I will make a turned tube of the same white silk from the lower sleeve to attach the sleeve edge all together. This should be strong and unobtrusive, though I may try to find some white twill tape or the scrap linen from my chemise to use instead to make it REALLY hard to see.
Edit: Jackpot (I hope)! While searching for the twill tape I found some super narrow (4mm) white silk ribbon I had gotten for another project and since completely forgotten about. This may be exactly the sort of super strong but super inconspicuous material I needed. Now lets just hope there's enough!
All posts regarding this project are listed here on the initial post.
I've been working on the top third of my sleeves for something like three weeks now. In this time I have individually flatlined all of the panes for the upper sleeves, constructed the tabs for the shoulder, and completed the gold-work on the sleeve panes. My current stop-up is deciding how best to hold together the armscye of the sleeve but I think I've finally made a decision on that.
The sleeve panes
I used the last set of panes I worked on as illustration of the technique:
Here is the inner back of the pane. I am shaping the shell fabric to the interlining
Here is the inner back after the seam allowance of the shell has been shaped to the interlining
Here is the lining pinned into place with seam allowances folded under but not stitched yet
Here are the completed panes from the back
Here are the completed panes from the front
Those were the last (and smallest) of the 12 panes I had to put together.
Here are all of the panes completed and roughly whip stitched together at the edges so that they would not get mixed up and out of order.
The full sleeve
Here is the effectively completed sleeve with the panes stitched to the top edge of the sleeve body
Here is the (rather wrinkled) sleeve with the gold-work completed ready to be closed up into the classic sleeve shape.
Here are two of the shoulder tabs which were basically made as stubby flattened tubes (rather then turn and face all of them as well). There are ten in total, which will have lines of gold-work applied along the dark blue stitching and then will be folded in half (as illustrated by the tab on the right) and sewn to the very top edge of the sleeve, with the tops angling in towards the neck.
All that remains (ha!) at this point is to:
attach the sleeve together at the top edge
do the gold-work on the tabs
attach the tabs
create the lacing points to attach the sleeve and shoulder strap.
I have been wrestling with the next step for a while, but I think I will make a turned tube of the same white silk from the lower sleeve to attach the sleeve edge all together. This should be strong and unobtrusive, though I may try to find some white twill tape or the scrap linen from my chemise to use instead to make it REALLY hard to see.
Edit: Jackpot (I hope)! While searching for the twill tape I found some super narrow (4mm) white silk ribbon I had gotten for another project and since completely forgotten about. This may be exactly the sort of super strong but super inconspicuous material I needed. Now lets just hope there's enough!
All posts regarding this project are listed here on the initial post.