Back gutter, phase 1a
I had the whole weekend but did not complete phase one of the back gutter.
Now that I know how to do rivets (rivet sizes, how the rivet gun works), I should do better.
I also did not follow my own instructions correctly. I was supposed to take the two separate gutter pieces and join them BETWEEN rafter tails, but instead joined them at a rafter tail. When I tried to snap the gutter into place onto brackets it was evident why not following my instructions was a problem: the rivets on the bottom of the gutter which joined the gutter to the bridge piece were not flat, making it impossible to snap the gutter to the brackets. My instructions were somehow prescient: I had not considered the rivets, was more concerned that the brackets would not attach to the top lip of the gutter (which probably would have also been a problem).
It was good that the end brackets did work correctly (where there were no rivets or "lip" problems).
In phase 1b I will:
1. take down the gutter
2. remove the middle bracket
3. install the other brackets at rafter tails with just one screw each
4. snap the gutter into the brackets
5. take down the gutter again,
6. put in the other gutter screws if everything is okay or remove each new bracket, reset placement and go to step 3.
7. add top pieces.
8. add sealant to every seam, especially outlet (which I had riveted in four places but really needs sealant)
While adding screws to the brackets is not easy, it is not very complex:
1. place bracket in correct position and hold there with right hand
2. bring up self-driving hex screw with left hand and hold bracket with that hand while grasping the screw with thumb and index finger over a hole
3. with right hand bring up hammer and pound in the screw until it is into the wood enough to hold itself and the bracket.
4. put down the hammer.
5. with the left hand position the bracket and hold.
6. take hex screw driver and hold firmly onto the head of the screw, pushing it while simultaneously turning right. Screw the head until it is tight against the bracket.
7. hammer in each other screw and tighten in the same way when it comes time to put in the final screws.
So the remainder of my work only requires:
1. hammer
2. screws
3. brackets and braces
4. hex driver with ratchet
5. sealant.
I thought the sealant was a glue and used it to hold the end caps. Don't think it worked well.
If the endcaps don't hold I will have to find a good glue: there is no way to rivet these: not enough metal overlap.
A really good crimper might also be helpful.
I tried to adapt the old downspout to the new gutter. It almost worked, but not quite.
It will be interesting to see how I do phase 2---which is the rainbarrel and downspout. Part of the problem is that the house exterior at the corner, where the downspout goes, is falling down and will need to be replaced later anyway. I want to do something that will stay for a while. It may need nothing more than:
1. remove all siding at corner.
2. cut 2x4 to go to the fascia board and go all the way down to the foundation.
3. Screw in 2x4.
4. Paint 2x4.
Then I will be ready to add downspout pieces and the rainbarrel diverter.
Even though my 4 inch gutter is only up there temporarily, I am happy with how it looks and believe when I am finished it will function well.
I learned a lot:
* follow the instructions!
* rivet size is based on hole diameter for the rivet, not on the skinny part which is the throw-away part that the rivet tool hangs onto and breaks off.
* rivets must be used to hold different gutter sections together: glue won't do...and don't even use it until the rivets are in.
* never join gutter sections together at a rafter tail!
This should have gone much faster, but I was worried about doing the wrong things, which I did, but at least what I did wrong I can work around: I got new rivets for the outlet and I can do without one rafter tail bracket as along as I do all the other rafter tails.
Now that I know how to do rivets (rivet sizes, how the rivet gun works), I should do better.
I also did not follow my own instructions correctly. I was supposed to take the two separate gutter pieces and join them BETWEEN rafter tails, but instead joined them at a rafter tail. When I tried to snap the gutter into place onto brackets it was evident why not following my instructions was a problem: the rivets on the bottom of the gutter which joined the gutter to the bridge piece were not flat, making it impossible to snap the gutter to the brackets. My instructions were somehow prescient: I had not considered the rivets, was more concerned that the brackets would not attach to the top lip of the gutter (which probably would have also been a problem).
It was good that the end brackets did work correctly (where there were no rivets or "lip" problems).
In phase 1b I will:
1. take down the gutter
2. remove the middle bracket
3. install the other brackets at rafter tails with just one screw each
4. snap the gutter into the brackets
5. take down the gutter again,
6. put in the other gutter screws if everything is okay or remove each new bracket, reset placement and go to step 3.
7. add top pieces.
8. add sealant to every seam, especially outlet (which I had riveted in four places but really needs sealant)
While adding screws to the brackets is not easy, it is not very complex:
1. place bracket in correct position and hold there with right hand
2. bring up self-driving hex screw with left hand and hold bracket with that hand while grasping the screw with thumb and index finger over a hole
3. with right hand bring up hammer and pound in the screw until it is into the wood enough to hold itself and the bracket.
4. put down the hammer.
5. with the left hand position the bracket and hold.
6. take hex screw driver and hold firmly onto the head of the screw, pushing it while simultaneously turning right. Screw the head until it is tight against the bracket.
7. hammer in each other screw and tighten in the same way when it comes time to put in the final screws.
So the remainder of my work only requires:
1. hammer
2. screws
3. brackets and braces
4. hex driver with ratchet
5. sealant.
I thought the sealant was a glue and used it to hold the end caps. Don't think it worked well.
If the endcaps don't hold I will have to find a good glue: there is no way to rivet these: not enough metal overlap.
A really good crimper might also be helpful.
I tried to adapt the old downspout to the new gutter. It almost worked, but not quite.
It will be interesting to see how I do phase 2---which is the rainbarrel and downspout. Part of the problem is that the house exterior at the corner, where the downspout goes, is falling down and will need to be replaced later anyway. I want to do something that will stay for a while. It may need nothing more than:
1. remove all siding at corner.
2. cut 2x4 to go to the fascia board and go all the way down to the foundation.
3. Screw in 2x4.
4. Paint 2x4.
Then I will be ready to add downspout pieces and the rainbarrel diverter.
Even though my 4 inch gutter is only up there temporarily, I am happy with how it looks and believe when I am finished it will function well.
I learned a lot:
* follow the instructions!
* rivet size is based on hole diameter for the rivet, not on the skinny part which is the throw-away part that the rivet tool hangs onto and breaks off.
* rivets must be used to hold different gutter sections together: glue won't do...and don't even use it until the rivets are in.
* never join gutter sections together at a rafter tail!
This should have gone much faster, but I was worried about doing the wrong things, which I did, but at least what I did wrong I can work around: I got new rivets for the outlet and I can do without one rafter tail bracket as along as I do all the other rafter tails.