Surfing

Dec 30, 2007 15:21

I've gotten some really good waves the past two days. This morning I paddled out at about 10 and has a 2 hour surf session. I've really been surfing good lately and I've totally been concentrating on getting better at airs and trying to pull some 360's. Anyway, it was really good the past two days, like head high sets w/ really nice fast walls. I had some really nice full rail turns and landed an Ok air today and it really made me feel like I used to right after high school when I used to be good. Its really crazy that I've been surfing since I was 16, thats like 1/2 my life...haha.

Anyways, this is a totally rambling post and I'm really tired. Surfing for 2 hours totally kicks your butt. So tonight, I think I'm going to stay home AND drink a bottle of wine tonight and relax so I can hit some more waves tomorrow. No need to go out and waste my time and money at the bars when there's good waves to be had in the morning. :)

PIC- Summer time surf session. Ahhh, the memories of warm water....LOL!!!


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