DOUBLE STRAPPED BABY MARY JANES CROCHET PATTERN
http://www.1dogwoof.com/2014/09/double-strapped-baby-mary-janes-crochet-pattern.html
This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not claim this pattern as your own, or sell or distribute it. If you would like to share this pattern, please link to this site and do not repost the pattern on your site. You can sell finished items made from this pattern, but please link back and give credit to One Dog Woof. Thanks!
SUPPLIES:
G/4mm size crochet hook
*
small amount of worsted weight yarn, in two colors (I used worsted weight yarn and a G hook to make a shoe sized for 6-12 months. The other hook I found was an F hook, so I used that with fingerling baby weight yarn and made shoes suitable for 0-3 months. I imagine some combination of hook size and yarn and gauge will give you a pair of shoes sized for 3-6 months, all using the same pattern.)
two buttons
embroidery needle
scissors
crochet thread for the buttons (I used a scrap of Lion Brand Yarn 601-630 Bonbons Yarn, Beach
* in red)
sewing needle to attach the buttons
* affliate links.
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch: chain stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
yo: yarn over
hdc2tog: half double crochet two together - a decreasing stitch -> yo, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.
dc2tog: double crochet two together - a decreasing stitch -> yo, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through 1st two loops on hook. yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through 1st two loops on hook, yo, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
sl st: slip stitch
standing start: with a slip knot on hook, insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop. yo, pull yarn through loops on hook. 1 sc created.
PATTERN:
Note: The first stitch following a chain in each round is worked into the same stitch as the chain (chain does not count as a stitch), except for Round 7, where the hdc is worked into the next stitch (ch2 is considered a stitch).
Round 1: Ch 14. Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Work 1 sc in each of next 8 stitches. Hdc 1 in each of next 3 stitches. Hdc 6 in last stitch. Hdc 1 in each of next 3 stitches, working down the opposite side of chain. Work 1 sc in each of next 8 stitches. Sc 3 in last stitch. Join with sl st to first sc. (32)
Round 2: Ch 2. Work 1 hdc in each of next 12 stitches. *hdc 2 in next stitch, hdc 1 in next stitch, hdc 2 in next stitch*. Repeat from * once more. Working down the other side, hdc 1 in each of next 12 stitches. 3 hdc in each of next 2 stitches. Join with sl st to first stitch. (40)
Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (40)
Round 4: Ch 1. Turn your work clockwise so that you are facing the wrong side (inside) of the sole. Insert hook into the space below the last sc you made in the previous round and work 1 sc. Work 1 sc in each stitch around by inserting hook into the space between rounds 2 and 3 and working the sc AROUND the stitches from round 3. Since you are facing the wrong side of the sole, this round will be worked in the opposite direction as previous round. You will also end up with 1 extra stitch (41). At the end of the round, join to the first sc with a sl st and fasten off.
Round 5: {NEW COLOR} Turn your work again so that the right side (bottom) of the sole is facing you. With the body color yarn, work a standing start into the last stitch of the previous round. Work 1 sc in each of next 14 stitches. Sc 2 in each of next 7 stitches. Work 1 sc in each of next 19 stitches. Join to first sc with sl st. (48)
Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as stitch). Work 1 sc in each of next 14 stitches. *hdc 1 in next stitch, then hdc2tog the next 2 stitches*. Repeat from * once more. Hdc2tog twice. *hdc2tog the next 2 stitches, then hdc 1 in next stitch*. Repeat from * once more. Work 1 sc in each of next 18 stitches. Join to first sc. (42)
Round 7: Ch 2. Hdc 1 in next stitch (see Note above). Work 1 sc in each of next 10 stitches. Hdc 1 in next stitch, then dc2tog the next 2 stitches. *Skip 1 stitch and dc into next stitch*. Repeat from * 3 more times. Skip 1 stitch then dc2tog next 2 stitches. Hdc 1 in next stitch. Work 1 sc in each of next 10 stitches. Hdc 1 in each of next 5 stitches. Join to the 2nd chain of starting chain using a sl st. (35)
Round 8 (Left shoe) : Work 1 sl st in each of next 12 stitches. Ch 20, sl st in 5th chain from hook, ch 15, then sl st in same stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 9 stitches. Ch 2, skip 2 stitches, then sl st in next stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 12 stitches. Join and fasten off with the invisible join.
Round 8 (Right shoe) : Work 1 sl st in each of next 8 stitches. Ch 2, skip 2 stitches, then sl st in next stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 9 stitches. Ch 20, sl st in 5th chain from hook, ch 15, then sl st in same stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 15 stitches. Join and fasten off with the invisible join.
Finishing: For both shoes, insert the strap through the hole made in the last round. Sew on a button on the same side as the beginning of the strap, and place it wherever you need to towards the back of the shoe. I placed mine about 6 stitches in from the center of the heel. The loop you made when sl st in the 5th chain from hook is the button loop. Make sure you choose a button that will fit that loop.
Ah, yes, those elephant buttons. Aren’t they the cutest thing? I luuuurve them, and have been holding (hoarding) onto them for a while, ever since I picked them up in Taiwan. I also have star shaped ones, duckies, and puppies. Oh the cuteness abounds!
This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not claim this pattern as your own, or sell or distribute it. If you would like to share this pattern, please link to this site and do not repost the pattern on your site. You can sell finished items made from this pattern, but please link back and give credit to One Dog Woof. Thanks!
SUPPLIES:
G/4mm size crochet hook
*
small amount of worsted weight yarn, in two colors (I used worsted weight yarn and a G hook to make a shoe sized for 6-12 months. The other hook I found was an F hook, so I used that with fingerling baby weight yarn and made shoes suitable for 0-3 months. I imagine some combination of hook size and yarn and gauge will give you a pair of shoes sized for 3-6 months, all using the same pattern.)
two buttons
embroidery needle
scissors
crochet thread for the buttons (I used a scrap of Lion Brand Yarn 601-630 Bonbons Yarn, Beach
* in red)
sewing needle to attach the buttons
* affliate links.
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch: chain stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
yo: yarn over
hdc2tog: half double crochet two together - a decreasing stitch -> yo, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.
dc2tog: double crochet two together - a decreasing stitch -> yo, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through 1st two loops on hook. yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through 1st two loops on hook, yo, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
sl st: slip stitch
standing start: with a slip knot on hook, insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop. yo, pull yarn through loops on hook. 1 sc created.
PATTERN:
Note: The first stitch following a chain in each round is worked into the same stitch as the chain (chain does not count as a stitch), except for Round 7, where the hdc is worked into the next stitch (ch2 is considered a stitch).
Round 1: Ch 14. Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Work 1 sc in each of next 8 stitches. Hdc 1 in each of next 3 stitches. Hdc 6 in last stitch. Hdc 1 in each of next 3 stitches, working down the opposite side of chain. Work 1 sc in each of next 8 stitches. Sc 3 in last stitch. Join with sl st to first sc. (32)
Round 2: Ch 2. Work 1 hdc in each of next 12 stitches. *hdc 2 in next stitch, hdc 1 in next stitch, hdc 2 in next stitch*. Repeat from * once more. Working down the other side, hdc 1 in each of next 12 stitches. 3 hdc in each of next 2 stitches. Join with sl st to first stitch. (40)
Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (40)
Round 4: Ch 1. Turn your work clockwise so that you are facing the wrong side (inside) of the sole. Insert hook into the space below the last sc you made in the previous round and work 1 sc. Work 1 sc in each stitch around by inserting hook into the space between rounds 2 and 3 and working the sc AROUND the stitches from round 3. Since you are facing the wrong side of the sole, this round will be worked in the opposite direction as previous round. You will also end up with 1 extra stitch (41). At the end of the round, join to the first sc with a sl st and fasten off.
Round 5: {NEW COLOR} Turn your work again so that the right side (bottom) of the sole is facing you. With the body color yarn, work a standing start into the last stitch of the previous round. Work 1 sc in each of next 14 stitches. Sc 2 in each of next 7 stitches. Work 1 sc in each of next 19 stitches. Join to first sc with sl st. (48)
Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as stitch). Work 1 sc in each of next 14 stitches. *hdc 1 in next stitch, then hdc2tog the next 2 stitches*. Repeat from * once more. Hdc2tog twice. *hdc2tog the next 2 stitches, then hdc 1 in next stitch*. Repeat from * once more. Work 1 sc in each of next 18 stitches. Join to first sc. (42)
Round 7: Ch 2. Hdc 1 in next stitch (see Note above). Work 1 sc in each of next 10 stitches. Hdc 1 in next stitch, then dc2tog the next 2 stitches. *Skip 1 stitch and dc into next stitch*. Repeat from * 3 more times. Skip 1 stitch then dc2tog next 2 stitches. Hdc 1 in next stitch. Work 1 sc in each of next 10 stitches. Hdc 1 in each of next 5 stitches. Join to the 2nd chain of starting chain using a sl st. (35)
Round 8 (Left shoe) : Work 1 sl st in each of next 12 stitches. Ch 20, sl st in 5th chain from hook, ch 15, then sl st in same stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 9 stitches. Ch 2, skip 2 stitches, then sl st in next stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 12 stitches. Join and fasten off with the invisible join.
Round 8 (Right shoe) : Work 1 sl st in each of next 8 stitches. Ch 2, skip 2 stitches, then sl st in next stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 9 stitches. Ch 20, sl st in 5th chain from hook, ch 15, then sl st in same stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 15 stitches. Join and fasten off with the invisible join.
Finishing: For both shoes, insert the strap through the hole made in the last round. Sew on a button on the same side as the beginning of the strap, and place it wherever you need to towards the back of the shoe. I placed mine about 6 stitches in from the center of the heel. The loop you made when sl st in the 5th chain from hook is the button loop. Make sure you choose a button that will fit that loop.
Ah, yes, those elephant buttons. Aren’t they the cutest thing? I luuuurve them, and have been holding (hoarding) onto them for a while, ever since I picked them up in Taiwan. I also have star shaped ones, duckies, and puppies. Oh the cuteness abounds!