Headlamp/Bulb Replacement on the 2003 KIA Rio
This is not in any of the manuals. However, it is pretty easy to perform and will pay for the better bulbs you are about to install.
What you will need;
I am replacing my wife's blown headlight bulbs with Sylvania Silver Star Ultra's. You do not need to replace both in pairs if you are sticking with the standard dim as dark OEM bulbs.
Since we are going from those dim as dark cheap older OEM lamps to a newer style lamp with brighter output and much better road performance we will be replacing both... and seeing as only one of the bulbs are blown we will keep this working OEM lamp as an emergency backup. Headlight tickets in this part of town cost around $94, so it's worth holding onto the old lamp.
You will also need a 10mm nut driver or socket & ratchet and some clean rags or paper towels.
Important note here:
DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE GLASS BULB. IF BY CHANCE YOU DO CONTAMINATE THE GLASS SURFACE, MAKE DAMN SURE YOU CLEAN IT OFF PRIOR TO INSTALLING OR ELSE THE BULB WILL FAIL INSTANTLY OR MOST CERTAINLY AFTER A FEW HOURS OF OPERATION.
1. As already indicated our new bulbs are Sylvania SilverStar Ultra's and I must say they are the only way to go. I put a set of SilverStar's in my Jeep Cherokee and it made a huge difference in night time visibility. Yes, they cost a pig and goat more then a cow. However, the point is to improve the ability at night time to see the road an side markers, and outside of installing a pair of HID lights at the cost of several hundred bucks this is the only way to go.
2. Let's start with the easy side. The passenger side is so easy I am barely going to mention it here besides to just point out the location and tell you that a quick CCW twist on the round cap will open the back of the lens up to gain access to the bulb for replacement.
3. Now the drivers side and the need for the 10mm nutdriver or socket set.
4. I have marked the two 10mm screws that need to be removed, then pull straight out on the lens, if needed wiggle the lens from side to side to help pull it loose from the latch located on the bottom part of the lens holding it to the car's frame (see below photos for latch location and type).
Here is the latch located on the frame.
Arrow shows lens assy' going into the latch.
Bob's Your Uncle, lens assy' pulled out from car.
5. At this point you should have the lens pulled out from the car. These next series of photos show you how to get inside the lens unit to remove the bulb.
CCW to open the cap, CW to seal it back up.
Note that the o-ring came out of the groove on the top part of the cap, make sure to wipe off the o-ring and groove area on the cap prior to re-installing.
Gently wiggle and pull off the bulb power connector.
Power connector pulled off and wire spring latch unhooked, releasing the bulb from the lens housing.
Remove the old bulb, holding the bottom of these bulbs at the power connector will help keep finger oil and grease off of the glass. (Sorry for the blur?!?!)
OK, that was all pretty easy right? Now all you have to do is reverse all these steps to install the new bulbs and then reinstall the lens assy' back into the car.
You just saved yourself about $50-70 bucks in labor and kept those dim as dark cheap OEM bulbs out of the car.
Notes:
* DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS ON THE BULB. I cannot stress this enough.
* Pay attention to getting that o-ring properly back into place on the cap and make sure the small latch on the bottom backside of the lens assy' gets back into it's slotted groove before you push the lens back into the car.
As Always! Take your time and do it right the first time. It should take you no more then about 20-30 min to complete both sides.
Nice and bright!
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.
What you will need;
I am replacing my wife's blown headlight bulbs with Sylvania Silver Star Ultra's. You do not need to replace both in pairs if you are sticking with the standard dim as dark OEM bulbs.
Since we are going from those dim as dark cheap older OEM lamps to a newer style lamp with brighter output and much better road performance we will be replacing both... and seeing as only one of the bulbs are blown we will keep this working OEM lamp as an emergency backup. Headlight tickets in this part of town cost around $94, so it's worth holding onto the old lamp.
You will also need a 10mm nut driver or socket & ratchet and some clean rags or paper towels.
Important note here:
DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE GLASS BULB. IF BY CHANCE YOU DO CONTAMINATE THE GLASS SURFACE, MAKE DAMN SURE YOU CLEAN IT OFF PRIOR TO INSTALLING OR ELSE THE BULB WILL FAIL INSTANTLY OR MOST CERTAINLY AFTER A FEW HOURS OF OPERATION.
1. As already indicated our new bulbs are Sylvania SilverStar Ultra's and I must say they are the only way to go. I put a set of SilverStar's in my Jeep Cherokee and it made a huge difference in night time visibility. Yes, they cost a pig and goat more then a cow. However, the point is to improve the ability at night time to see the road an side markers, and outside of installing a pair of HID lights at the cost of several hundred bucks this is the only way to go.
2. Let's start with the easy side. The passenger side is so easy I am barely going to mention it here besides to just point out the location and tell you that a quick CCW twist on the round cap will open the back of the lens up to gain access to the bulb for replacement.
3. Now the drivers side and the need for the 10mm nutdriver or socket set.
4. I have marked the two 10mm screws that need to be removed, then pull straight out on the lens, if needed wiggle the lens from side to side to help pull it loose from the latch located on the bottom part of the lens holding it to the car's frame (see below photos for latch location and type).
Here is the latch located on the frame.
Arrow shows lens assy' going into the latch.
Bob's Your Uncle, lens assy' pulled out from car.
5. At this point you should have the lens pulled out from the car. These next series of photos show you how to get inside the lens unit to remove the bulb.
CCW to open the cap, CW to seal it back up.
Note that the o-ring came out of the groove on the top part of the cap, make sure to wipe off the o-ring and groove area on the cap prior to re-installing.
Gently wiggle and pull off the bulb power connector.
Power connector pulled off and wire spring latch unhooked, releasing the bulb from the lens housing.
Remove the old bulb, holding the bottom of these bulbs at the power connector will help keep finger oil and grease off of the glass. (Sorry for the blur?!?!)
OK, that was all pretty easy right? Now all you have to do is reverse all these steps to install the new bulbs and then reinstall the lens assy' back into the car.
You just saved yourself about $50-70 bucks in labor and kept those dim as dark cheap OEM bulbs out of the car.
Notes:
* DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS ON THE BULB. I cannot stress this enough.
* Pay attention to getting that o-ring properly back into place on the cap and make sure the small latch on the bottom backside of the lens assy' gets back into it's slotted groove before you push the lens back into the car.
As Always! Take your time and do it right the first time. It should take you no more then about 20-30 min to complete both sides.
Nice and bright!
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.