Electric Update
Yesterday I spent a lovely, productive, information-laden two hours in props with Dot Young. I was only 15minutes late cos I thought on my way up "I'm here 15 mins early, I'll just pop into Boots and run off my photos..." errr. yeah. Still, it was worth getting them in hard copy for reference. Ended up with about 50 photos spread out across the props table, along with drawings, notes, and kneepad bowls.
Very handily I have a few relics from the London production of Starlight Express - literally this is stuff that was so old and worn-out it wasn't in wardrobe to be part of the wholesale destruction there. I have one of Gary Forbes' Rocky kneepads, a used loose kneepad bowl, a few Nationals belts, including "Milton Keynes"... all in a seriously old and broken down state. But as a costume maker, that's almost more interesting than pristine items, since the construction methods are clear to see!
So. What did Dot and I discuss... methods of making these pieces. The easiest job - touch wood - will be the latex wrist wheels. I need to make a positive mould from clay and found objects - maybe a nice bolt in the middle of the wheel, perhaps a pringles tube lid for the circumference... So once I have moulded that, I will make a plaster negative mould, from which I can make many many latex and foam castings! I'm thinking of embedding wadding into the latex rather than buying foam as such... then backing it onto calico. Then spray paint - et voila, one silver train wheel ready for attaching to a glove, or an elbow, or a skate cover....
Shoulder pads and chest and back boxes - vacuum forming. So I need to make moulds. Just using clay for moulds is fine for a single-use mould, but apparently the clay will get mushed in taking the plastic off. So while that'll work fine for the front box, the shoulders could do with being an identical pair, so I'll need a more permanent mould. erk. Also need to decide on the design and purpose of the back panel!!!
Kneepads- I have two options - I can either use the bowl I have straight off, pack the inside with clay to keep it cool, and vac form right on top of it. Or, I can use alginate to make a mould of the bowl, make a plaster positive mould from THAT, then vac-form it. I think I would prefer the lengthy process as it wil give me a permanent plaster kneebowl mould which I can re-use to my heart's content without relying on the existing bowl each time. This will produce the clear plastic kneepad bowls to tack in place over the decorated kneepads.
(Purdy's come to investigate - lots of paper for her to sit on. At least she's not got muddy paws right now...)
I also spoke to Jane Cowood about the skull cap- she reckons I could easily make it from Bockram which will give me flexibility in that it will not have to be an exact fit for each head - I can sew and elasticate it to make a snug fit.
Dot reckons I will need 6-8 days in the props workshop, to be sure - this'll be one of those 3 jobs at once procedures, finishing one bit while another is setting. Some of the matrerials I can use from the props workshop, and pay them back in kind - if I use £20 of stuff, I'll be sent out to get £20 worth of supplies they need, but unlikely to be what I have used... apparently it works out! But the more specific stuff like the vac-forming plastic and latex I need to supply for myself.
SO: To do next:
Budget and Schedule - work out each element then add it all up. then take to Caroline and say "Please can I have an extension?"
Look up props suppliers - see if I can find .75mm metallic red HI plastic, and 2mm clear.
toile up unitard and jacket - take into uni to sew as my machine's on the blink AGAIN.
Get machine fixed.
Look up kanekalon extensions
Very handily I have a few relics from the London production of Starlight Express - literally this is stuff that was so old and worn-out it wasn't in wardrobe to be part of the wholesale destruction there. I have one of Gary Forbes' Rocky kneepads, a used loose kneepad bowl, a few Nationals belts, including "Milton Keynes"... all in a seriously old and broken down state. But as a costume maker, that's almost more interesting than pristine items, since the construction methods are clear to see!
So. What did Dot and I discuss... methods of making these pieces. The easiest job - touch wood - will be the latex wrist wheels. I need to make a positive mould from clay and found objects - maybe a nice bolt in the middle of the wheel, perhaps a pringles tube lid for the circumference... So once I have moulded that, I will make a plaster negative mould, from which I can make many many latex and foam castings! I'm thinking of embedding wadding into the latex rather than buying foam as such... then backing it onto calico. Then spray paint - et voila, one silver train wheel ready for attaching to a glove, or an elbow, or a skate cover....
Shoulder pads and chest and back boxes - vacuum forming. So I need to make moulds. Just using clay for moulds is fine for a single-use mould, but apparently the clay will get mushed in taking the plastic off. So while that'll work fine for the front box, the shoulders could do with being an identical pair, so I'll need a more permanent mould. erk. Also need to decide on the design and purpose of the back panel!!!
Kneepads- I have two options - I can either use the bowl I have straight off, pack the inside with clay to keep it cool, and vac form right on top of it. Or, I can use alginate to make a mould of the bowl, make a plaster positive mould from THAT, then vac-form it. I think I would prefer the lengthy process as it wil give me a permanent plaster kneebowl mould which I can re-use to my heart's content without relying on the existing bowl each time. This will produce the clear plastic kneepad bowls to tack in place over the decorated kneepads.
(Purdy's come to investigate - lots of paper for her to sit on. At least she's not got muddy paws right now...)
I also spoke to Jane Cowood about the skull cap- she reckons I could easily make it from Bockram which will give me flexibility in that it will not have to be an exact fit for each head - I can sew and elasticate it to make a snug fit.
Dot reckons I will need 6-8 days in the props workshop, to be sure - this'll be one of those 3 jobs at once procedures, finishing one bit while another is setting. Some of the matrerials I can use from the props workshop, and pay them back in kind - if I use £20 of stuff, I'll be sent out to get £20 worth of supplies they need, but unlikely to be what I have used... apparently it works out! But the more specific stuff like the vac-forming plastic and latex I need to supply for myself.
SO: To do next:
Budget and Schedule - work out each element then add it all up. then take to Caroline and say "Please can I have an extension?"
Look up props suppliers - see if I can find .75mm metallic red HI plastic, and 2mm clear.
toile up unitard and jacket - take into uni to sew as my machine's on the blink AGAIN.
Get machine fixed.
Look up kanekalon extensions