Sarah's Ballgown bodice mockup

May 28, 2007 20:32

The first mockup of the bodice for Sarah's gown is done. Considering I've never worked from a hand-drafted pattern before, I'm pretty happy with my first try.

For starters, here's a reference photo of the bodice. I'm making sleeves from a pattern and will attach them in some way, but haven't determined how just yet.



The bodice pattern started with a duct-tape dummy as pictured below. I think less layers of tape might have helped with the bunching at the waist but we didn't really know how much to use. We drew in the lines for the pattern pieces for later use.  Many thanks to
madjester for his assistance in "taping me up". :)





After cutting the ducktape dummy off, I cut up the pieces for one side. I traced them onto poster paper and then made mirror image pieces for the other side. I then added in a 5/8" seam allowance all around using my french curve.





I cut out the pattern pieces, sewed them together, punched some tentative holes for the laces with my awl and sewed in boning where I planned to use it (mostly in the front and back for support). I also put in a waist tape. I just used bones I had on hand so they're not all the right length. I'll order some more and cut them to fit once I have the final mockup done.



In the front you can see that I definitely need to add some bust gores. There's no room for my "bountiful bosom" and they're projected up and over or flattened in the mockup. Also, the front and hips are too long. I'll shorten them up to be more in line with the back and to allow a full "poof" of the skirt. I'm not sure what to do about the bunching at the waist. I'll probably add some more bones but I don't think that will take care of all of it. How do I draft that out of my pattern?



The seam on the right side popped so that's why it's poking out like that. I used a basting stitch mostly since I make so many mistakes. :o The top is too tall and I'm going to drop an inch or so from the bottom too. Again, there's bunching at the waistline that I don't know how to fix. The final version will have grommets and a modesty panel since I'm planning to be slightly thinner when I wear this in September. I'm planning to have a 1-2" gap in the back as well. I'll deduct that from the entire pattern as I've read is the best method.



The side is too tall under the arm but I've noted that too and will draft that out. You can really see the waist bunching here.

Overall, I feel pretty good about the outcome. As I said, I have no experience working outside of patterns. And I've had little training in sewing in general. Too bad my execution isn't as good as what's in my head. Practice, practice, practice!

Any and all tips are welcome.

dragon*con, costuming, sarah's gown

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