I haven't forgotten about posting... I promise...
Hi everyone! (this is a long post... feel free to skim!)
I've had quite the busy few days. After I last posted (Monday), I walked outside (still soaked from my walk to the internet cafe) to see sunny weather. It figures... I walked to Birthright to say hello to the folks in the office there, who had also arranged for me to meet several people. Mikayel arranged for me to meet Sarhat, a PhD in architecture who knows absolutely everyone in architecture and restoration in Armenia. Sevan had arranged for me to meet Joe Levonian (it turns out Joe is Peace Corps Jill's ex-boyfriend... That'll only mean something to a few of you, but it's definitely worth mentioning. Armenia is so ridiculously small...) to see the Children's Hematology Institute, which the Hye Hop sponsored this year. They helped me make those contacts then sent me on my merry way. I also went book shopping on Republic Square and picked up some great books on Armenian architecture. I think I'll spend my special spending money on books rather than a rug... But we'll see.
In order to relive past experiences, I decided to have a late lunch at Square One. I was so excited for a milkshake, fries, etc., but was unfortunately sorely disappointed. Maybe I was so hungry for food from home last year that it didn't matter, but I was so sad after my lunch because we really enjoyed it last summer (Pifer was OBSESSED - and still is - with the tuna baguette).
Anyways, Tuesday I was all excited to spend the day at the museum, but apparently it was a worker's holiday so it was closed, which ruined the plans for the bulk of my day. But, I did enjoy a nice walk to the Cascade since the view of Ararat was perfectly clear, and I also enjoyed a sprinkled donut from YumYum's - at least that was still as good as I remember! I walked down Mashtots back to the main square, and then strolled back up towards my apartment. I caught a lunch of french toast at Artbridge (which also lived up to the memory!!!) and actually later went back to the same cafe to meet with Sarhat, the arch. PhD. He gave me so many contacts of architects and other organizations - it's sort of overwhelming! I'm just at the surface, but there's a ridiculous amount of people who do restoration work and also tons of info for me to discover. Anyways, he'll take me to the university's department of restoration and preservation of historical monuments on Friday. He's a young guy who finished his PhD on urban redevelopment in Shushi a couple years ago - really knowledgeable.
Wednesday I went to Erebuni - the ancient city - and Tsitsernakaberd - the Genocide Memorial and Museum, with the tour group from D.C. It was actually really nice to be back with a group again after a couple lonely days. Erebuni was interesting, mostly because they have so much and know so much about this ancient city that was around even before Rome and Greece. What is odd and troubling, though, is that they've built up on the ruins to look more like ruins. It's really strange - the actual walls that they've excavated are only a few feet high, but they've built walls on top to be a couple meters high as well as partially reconstructed columned halls and frescos - but all to look like ruins. Who knows.
Then we went to the Genocide Memorial. It's quite a moving place and a difficult place for me to be. I bought really nice tulips (they were gorgeous - I have no idea what kind, but I took pictures because I loved them so much. :)) to bring for the memorial. First we went to the museum, and it was interesting to see this group of non-Armenians that I was with learn about this tragedy and react to it. I also said hello to the Sepastatsi dirt - it's pretty amazing that they have that.
Then we walked to the memorial. They were just clearing away the massive amounts of flowers from last week's April 24 commemoration. It was really nice to see that - one of my life ambitions is to be in Armenia on April 24 to see the people going to the monument and the pile of flowers. So I guess it was fulfilled in part yesterday.
After the morning's tour (the group continued on for a city tour, which I really don't need), I headed home. I had plans that had to get nixed, so I took myself on some errands and then to an early dinner at Jazzve. Pifer, you would have been so happy - I asked for our "hats banir hats - DAK." It was hysterical. Then I spent the evening looking over some of my new architectural books.
Today was a long day (and this is getting to be a long entry, so I'll try to sum up!). I have a driver, Hamlet, for some of my longer trips, and today we went - with my guide Mary - all over the place. We were supposed to do this trip in 2 days, but I altered my schedule so I can go to Etchmiadzin tomorrow to see Father Ktrij who will take me to see what they do concerning architecture there. Anyways, today we went to Dilijan to see the monasteries of Haghartsin and Goshavank, then we went to the Sevan peninsula. The wind was absolutely insane, I'm surprised we weren't blown off the steps (which I HATE! The things I do for architecture...). It's 240 rail-less steps up the side of a rocky hill to the churches. You could see the bad weather rolling in over the lake, so I knew we'd be in trouble for the way down.
On the way down, just 15 minutes later, it started raining... AND HAILING!!!!... HAIL WENT IN MY EAR!!!... the moment we started down the steps. A little boy held our arms to help steady us. I was soaking wet and windblown when we came down... Not fun. We had some tea and bakhlava in the new cafe at the bottom before heading to Noraduz. I'd never been to Noraduz before, so it was really interesting. They have a field of about 2,000 khatchkars - it's so amazing. Each one has a story and is completely unique. If the weather hadn't followed us across the lake (it followed us all the way back to Yerevan...), I would have tried to spend more time there. After Noraduz we went to Tsakhadzor to see the Kecharis Monastery, which was really great since it was restored not too long ago. They have plaques everywhere talking about the restoration, and the priest, Der Koryun, was also very knowledgeable. The facade and walls are covered with small numbers, which they used to reconstruct the wall. I'll have to ask about it when I talk to some specialists later in my trip.
Now I'm back and exhausted - it was a 9 hour day and we saw so much. I'm glad I had a guide though - it was a last minute decision and a good one. She was really great and told me about all the things I'll see on my whole trip, so when I don't have a guide I'll still know a little bit. Now I'm hungry and my ears are plugged from going up and down in elevation all day. The popping isn't working anymore - it'll just have to happen gradually... I think I'm also fighting off a cold, so I'm glad my mom packed Vitamin C and some Zycam in my meds. They've been very helpful - thanks Mom. :)
The next few days should be nice. Tomorrow I'm off to Etchmiadzin and then to Yerevan State University to meet their faculty. Then I should see the Hematology Institute as well as Karen Milam, a friend from U-M who just arrived here to do Habitat! Saturday is a free day - Vernissage is on the list. Then Sunday I'm back to Etchmiadzin with the group for Badarak. I guess they've asked to have an audience with Vehapar, so we'll see if that happens...
I miss all of you! Keep in touch. Less than 2 weeks til I get home - yay! :)
I've had quite the busy few days. After I last posted (Monday), I walked outside (still soaked from my walk to the internet cafe) to see sunny weather. It figures... I walked to Birthright to say hello to the folks in the office there, who had also arranged for me to meet several people. Mikayel arranged for me to meet Sarhat, a PhD in architecture who knows absolutely everyone in architecture and restoration in Armenia. Sevan had arranged for me to meet Joe Levonian (it turns out Joe is Peace Corps Jill's ex-boyfriend... That'll only mean something to a few of you, but it's definitely worth mentioning. Armenia is so ridiculously small...) to see the Children's Hematology Institute, which the Hye Hop sponsored this year. They helped me make those contacts then sent me on my merry way. I also went book shopping on Republic Square and picked up some great books on Armenian architecture. I think I'll spend my special spending money on books rather than a rug... But we'll see.
In order to relive past experiences, I decided to have a late lunch at Square One. I was so excited for a milkshake, fries, etc., but was unfortunately sorely disappointed. Maybe I was so hungry for food from home last year that it didn't matter, but I was so sad after my lunch because we really enjoyed it last summer (Pifer was OBSESSED - and still is - with the tuna baguette).
Anyways, Tuesday I was all excited to spend the day at the museum, but apparently it was a worker's holiday so it was closed, which ruined the plans for the bulk of my day. But, I did enjoy a nice walk to the Cascade since the view of Ararat was perfectly clear, and I also enjoyed a sprinkled donut from YumYum's - at least that was still as good as I remember! I walked down Mashtots back to the main square, and then strolled back up towards my apartment. I caught a lunch of french toast at Artbridge (which also lived up to the memory!!!) and actually later went back to the same cafe to meet with Sarhat, the arch. PhD. He gave me so many contacts of architects and other organizations - it's sort of overwhelming! I'm just at the surface, but there's a ridiculous amount of people who do restoration work and also tons of info for me to discover. Anyways, he'll take me to the university's department of restoration and preservation of historical monuments on Friday. He's a young guy who finished his PhD on urban redevelopment in Shushi a couple years ago - really knowledgeable.
Wednesday I went to Erebuni - the ancient city - and Tsitsernakaberd - the Genocide Memorial and Museum, with the tour group from D.C. It was actually really nice to be back with a group again after a couple lonely days. Erebuni was interesting, mostly because they have so much and know so much about this ancient city that was around even before Rome and Greece. What is odd and troubling, though, is that they've built up on the ruins to look more like ruins. It's really strange - the actual walls that they've excavated are only a few feet high, but they've built walls on top to be a couple meters high as well as partially reconstructed columned halls and frescos - but all to look like ruins. Who knows.
Then we went to the Genocide Memorial. It's quite a moving place and a difficult place for me to be. I bought really nice tulips (they were gorgeous - I have no idea what kind, but I took pictures because I loved them so much. :)) to bring for the memorial. First we went to the museum, and it was interesting to see this group of non-Armenians that I was with learn about this tragedy and react to it. I also said hello to the Sepastatsi dirt - it's pretty amazing that they have that.
Then we walked to the memorial. They were just clearing away the massive amounts of flowers from last week's April 24 commemoration. It was really nice to see that - one of my life ambitions is to be in Armenia on April 24 to see the people going to the monument and the pile of flowers. So I guess it was fulfilled in part yesterday.
After the morning's tour (the group continued on for a city tour, which I really don't need), I headed home. I had plans that had to get nixed, so I took myself on some errands and then to an early dinner at Jazzve. Pifer, you would have been so happy - I asked for our "hats banir hats - DAK." It was hysterical. Then I spent the evening looking over some of my new architectural books.
Today was a long day (and this is getting to be a long entry, so I'll try to sum up!). I have a driver, Hamlet, for some of my longer trips, and today we went - with my guide Mary - all over the place. We were supposed to do this trip in 2 days, but I altered my schedule so I can go to Etchmiadzin tomorrow to see Father Ktrij who will take me to see what they do concerning architecture there. Anyways, today we went to Dilijan to see the monasteries of Haghartsin and Goshavank, then we went to the Sevan peninsula. The wind was absolutely insane, I'm surprised we weren't blown off the steps (which I HATE! The things I do for architecture...). It's 240 rail-less steps up the side of a rocky hill to the churches. You could see the bad weather rolling in over the lake, so I knew we'd be in trouble for the way down.
On the way down, just 15 minutes later, it started raining... AND HAILING!!!!... HAIL WENT IN MY EAR!!!... the moment we started down the steps. A little boy held our arms to help steady us. I was soaking wet and windblown when we came down... Not fun. We had some tea and bakhlava in the new cafe at the bottom before heading to Noraduz. I'd never been to Noraduz before, so it was really interesting. They have a field of about 2,000 khatchkars - it's so amazing. Each one has a story and is completely unique. If the weather hadn't followed us across the lake (it followed us all the way back to Yerevan...), I would have tried to spend more time there. After Noraduz we went to Tsakhadzor to see the Kecharis Monastery, which was really great since it was restored not too long ago. They have plaques everywhere talking about the restoration, and the priest, Der Koryun, was also very knowledgeable. The facade and walls are covered with small numbers, which they used to reconstruct the wall. I'll have to ask about it when I talk to some specialists later in my trip.
Now I'm back and exhausted - it was a 9 hour day and we saw so much. I'm glad I had a guide though - it was a last minute decision and a good one. She was really great and told me about all the things I'll see on my whole trip, so when I don't have a guide I'll still know a little bit. Now I'm hungry and my ears are plugged from going up and down in elevation all day. The popping isn't working anymore - it'll just have to happen gradually... I think I'm also fighting off a cold, so I'm glad my mom packed Vitamin C and some Zycam in my meds. They've been very helpful - thanks Mom. :)
The next few days should be nice. Tomorrow I'm off to Etchmiadzin and then to Yerevan State University to meet their faculty. Then I should see the Hematology Institute as well as Karen Milam, a friend from U-M who just arrived here to do Habitat! Saturday is a free day - Vernissage is on the list. Then Sunday I'm back to Etchmiadzin with the group for Badarak. I guess they've asked to have an audience with Vehapar, so we'll see if that happens...
I miss all of you! Keep in touch. Less than 2 weeks til I get home - yay! :)