Costuming: 14th c. Italian Thoughts

Sep 29, 2013 17:00

I admit that since switching personae, I've been kind of "coasting" as far as clothing goes. I've been wearing lace-front fitted dresses, and hoods, and the Standard SCAdian 14th Century accouterments. So it's not really wrong, per se, but it's not Imigla's Clothing yet.

So now I'm thinking what to do next to really create the right wardrobe. Since I have the luxury of creating it at a leisurely pace (I'm happy with the way my clothes look, I just want them to be better) I figure I can do it as right as possible, from the outside in.

So here's some preliminary thoughts, and my related Pinterest board is here if you want to play along:

* Silhouette - A very flat-chested silhouette seems to dominate Italian art of the Late Trecento, with the exception of the Menabuoi frescoes. Dunno what's up with that, but maybe he just liked boobs.

* Neckline - Almost exclusively squared, with a relatively high front and not a lot of cleavage, up to at least 1375. Rounded and lower by 1390.

* Fastening - Almost no lacing visible. Buttons on lower sleeves in some images.

* Decoration - Some interesting options. Some dresses seem almost color-blocked in interesting ways. A lot of necklines have some type of decoration. At least one dress with a wide guard around the hem. Parti-coloring.

* Heads - Hair largely braided or twisted around the crown of the head. Sometimes taped. Not a lot of veils. One woman wearing what looks like a liripipe hood flat on her head in the St. Ursula & Friends image. Two images of women wearing hoods with elbow-length mantles. A few images of women with what Eleanor le Brun suggests is an apron tied around her head.

First Steps:

- Make two different foundation undergarments: One based on the Menabuoi painting where it looks like the woman just has a sash under her breasts, and another "Bohemian Bath Babe" type based on a flat-front "La Cotte Simple" drape. See how they work.

- Learn to Dutch braid. I think I can do the hairstyles even with my hair being pretty short, but it may take practice.

After that...I don't know. I need to ponder the most likely patterning for dresses. I like the patterning suggested at The Medieval Tailor, as it would allow you to do fitting at the side-front and side-back gores as well as the sides while allowing for a seamless center front. And then...side lacing seems like it might be the thing for more fitted dresses.

What do you all think?
Previous post Next post
Up