Mapping Hungjao Road
Today’s Hongqiao Road 虹桥路 - wide, modern and traffic-ridden - is quite different from the 1930s, when it was Hungjao Road, “the one and only modern suburb in the city,” the location of wealthy foreigners’ villas. There aren’t any detailed archival maps of the area, so it is often difficult to match the old addresses and photographs with the present-day numbers and surviving buildings. Here is my second attempt at figuring out what was where on Hungjao Road. An earlier overview of the history of Hungjao Road and its development can be found here. This is a work in progress, and new info is being added daily. Most of the pictures are clickable and link to the PastVu map.
The pioneer Hungjao Road, “near Shanghai”, was on the cover of the Oriental Motor magazine in June 1920.
Hungjao Road - Hongqiao Road - 虹桥路
The numbering on Hungjao Road goes from east to west. Originally, the street did not branch out from Xujiahui, but extended west from Route Picard Destelan (now Guangyuan Road 广元路). The odd numbers were generally on the north side, but not always.
Western end (or rather, beginning) of Hungjao Road, with Nanyang Model School 南洋大学 at No. 60, Hungjao Cemetery at No. 108, Tung Wen College 东亚同文书院 at No. 100-1, and Columbia Dairy (marked Aikosha Dairy 爱光社) next to it, at No. 120.
60 Hungjao Road - Nanyang Model School 南洋大学.
100-1 Hungjao Road - Tung Wen College 同文书院. Massively damaged in 1937.
108 Hungjao Road - Hungjao (Road) Cemetery. It opened in 1926. See more images on PastVu.
Memorial Day at Hungjao Cemetery in 1946.
111 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs K. L. Egikoff. Egikoff was a Russian architect, involved in the construction of the St. Nicholas Church on Rue Corneille.
119 Hungjao Road - Ma Ling Canned Goods Co. Factory 梅林罐头食品总厂.
120 Hungjao Road - Columbia Dairy (originally Aikosha Dairy 爱光社). Its Japanese owner and founder Ryoji Ishisaki sold his company to the Americans after the Mukden Incident in 1931, and the name was changed to Columbia Dairy, but Ishisaki remained the director. The map above, dated by 1940, reflects the return to the original name during the Japanese occupation of Shanghai.
Gate of the Columbia Dairy, 120 Hungjao Road, in 1940.
Moving further west along Hungjao Road, we reach Rockhill Avenue (now West Huaihai Road 淮海西路) and Keswick Road (now Kaixuan Road 凯旋路), which branch out to the north.
Hungjao Road running east to west (right to left): Columbia Road goes northward, on the right; next is the Hungjao Cemetery. In the western part, Rockhill Avenue and Keswick Road branch out from a single point; then we see the railroad.
137 Hungjao Road - King’s Daughters Society’s Convalescent Home. Led by Miss J. V. Gregory, who had served as a nurse in the Great War, the Convalescent Home opened in summer 1923, “with a large and pleasant garden and 22 beds”. After the opening, the press described it as “a large red brick building with spacious grounds, where fresh breezes and sunshine, nourishing diet with scientific and loving care are making over pale and languid little invalids into lusty, romping children”. -- North-China Herald, 17 November 1923. The Convalescent Home accepted women and children for stays of up to three weeks. Getting to the site without a car was a problem, so there was a service of car shuttles picking up passengers from the corner of Avenue Joffre and Route Ferguson. The institution received high praise throughout the 1920s and beyond for its excellent work.
Crossing the train tracks on Hungjao Road, in 1938.
Having crossed the Shanghai-Hangchow-Ningpo railroad we enter the territory of large western villas interspersed with farmland and Chinese villages. The map below (enlargeable) shows the stretch of Hungjao Road between the railroad (right) and Chungsan Road (now West Zhongshan Road 中山西路).
130 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs R. A. Close
132 Hungjao Road - Westwood Estate. Located just west of the railroad,” the lots started to be developed in 1934.
134 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs Leonard Beswick
136 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs H. Diestel
140 Hungjao Road - Residence of Mr and Mrs Wilhelm Meller. The elegant modernist villa, built in 1936, made the news in October 1937, when the Japanese warplanes bombed Shanghai’s Western suburbs trying to damage the Shanghai-Hangchow railway. “Japanese bombers made a direct hit on the residence of Mr. Wilhelm Meller, 140 Hungjao Road, on October 14, the bomb tearing through the roof and penetrating to the ground floor.” -- NCH, 27 October 1937.
Meller, an executive at Melchers and Co., admitted he had spread a large German flag with a swastika horizontally on his roof in response to the repeated bombing of the neighborhood. This precaution did not help him or the other German resident, doctor F. G. Phillip, whose home was also destroyed that night. “The bomb which hit Mr Meller’s house went through the roof and exploded on the ground floor. Furniture, fittings and everything in the house was wrecked.” -- The China Press, 15 October 1937.
Wilhelm Meller’s residence (140 Hungjao Road) after the Japanese bomb hit it on 14 October 1937.
Lane 147 Hungjao Road - this was a private road on the north side of Hungjao Road, just west of the Shanghai-Hangchow-Ningpo Railway line. One of the homes is seen below: No. 103 - residence of R. M. Vanderburgh. He was a director of Asia Electric Co. Fed. Inc., USA, an electric equipment business. By 1941, some of these homes were occupied by the Japanese Army. I think, this lane corresponds to today’s Lane 885 Hongqiao Road, where the only surviving historic house is No. 4, known as Yan Xishan’s residence 阎锡山别墅虹桥路885弄4号.
R. M. Vanderburgh residence, No. 103 Lane 147 Hungjao Road, in 1933. Vanderburgh was president of the Realty Investment Co., Federal Inc., USA.
151 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs Nobblins (later H. O. Bramble, S. A. Wallace, C. A. Sterney, J. M. Howle).
153 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs Ed. Jappe.
157 Hungjao Road - K. B. Hill.
159 Hungjao Road -Mr and Mrs R. V. Yarrow.
Somewhere around here we cross Chungsan Road and are moving west in the direction of Fraser Road (now Yili Road 伊犁路) and Warren Road Bridge (Gubei Road 古北路).
169 Hungjao Road -International Cemetery (now Song Qingling Memorial Park, at 宋园路21号, also equivalent to 1286 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路1286号).
This is, presumably, the International Cemetery.
175 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs B. Fraser; Bright Fraser was an American architect.
191 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs F. N. Matthews.
192 Hungjao Road -Ting Wei Yao.
200 Hungjao Road - G. E. Tucker’s residence. “Cool and airy, the Tucker residence is ideal in the summer, typical of the modern country house.” -- North-China Daily News, 18 July 1933. The present-day address is 1390 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路1390号近伊犁路. More info here.
Tucker’s residence, featured in Beautiful Homes of Shanghai in 1933.
201 Hungjao Road - Hungjao Sanatorium 虹桥疗养院. Designed by Fozhen Godfrey Ede, it opened in 1934. “The new sanatorium represents one of the latest and most up-to-date medical institutions Shanghai has yet seen. Situated far from the din and bustle of the city and surrounded by small farms and vegetable gardens on Hungjao Road, the sanatorium will be haven for the ill and those who want peace and rest.” -- The China Press, 18 June 1934. After the destruction of the buildings during the 1937 Japanese attack on Hungjao, the facility relocated to the French Concession.
Hungjao Sanitarium 虹桥疗养院 at 201 Hungjao Road. The Builder 中国建筑, 1934.
212 Hungjao Road - ‘Ewo Bungalow’, the home of Mr and Mrs J. W. Williamson. Williamson was an architect; he designed his own home, imitating a thatched cottage, and also Victor Sassoon’s house ‘Eves’ in the old English style, located further down the street. Williamson’s house, better known as the Republican Minister of Finance T. V. Soong’s one-time residence, survives at today’s 1430 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路1430号.
Palmer and Turner, Architects, drawing of J. W. Williamson’s residence at 212 Hungjao Road.
222A Hungjao Road - Granada Estate, developed by Asia Realty Co. “Twenty-two houses built in Spanish style and equipped with every modern convenience.” -- Shanghai Sunday Times, 9 December 1934. Today’s address is Lane 1440 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路1440弄.
Plan of Granada Estates, published in 1933.
230 Hungjao Road - Boy Scouts Camp.
234 Hungjao Road - residence of Percy Tilley, the architect with a long career in Shanghai. His house was damaged in autumn 1937, having had “a large shell hole through the roof.” -- The China Press, 6 November 1937.
250 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs E. F. Harris
251 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs V. Vizenzinovich, Miss I. Vizenzinovich.
252 Hungjao Road - Chinese-owned residence, which was damaged in October 1937: “the house has a shell hole about four feet in diameter through the north wall.” -- The China Press, 6 November 1937.
276 Hungjao Road - Robert Dollar Co.
278 and 280 Hungjao Road. Residences of Mr & Mrs Norris G. Wood and Mr & Mrs Widmann; both these homes suffered the severe damage in 1937.
290 Hungjao Road - Institution for the Chinese Blind and Deaf. The very reputable school, which moved to this address in 1935, was severely damaged in 1937. “The school has been practically demolished by Japanese artillery fire and aerial bombing. The institution, famed throughout China as a model home for the blind, has been struck by a large number of shells while several bombs have landed on the premises. A village, located near the school, has also been destroyed... The school’s inmates were evacuated to the safety of the Settlement prior to Chinese withdrawal from Chapei, but the property destruction is so great that it will probably have to be rebuilt.” -- The China Press, 6 November 1937.
After two years of repairs the Institution returned to its address. The present-day Shanghai School for Blind Children, at 1850 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路1850号 appears to occupy the original buildings.
Blind School at 290 Hungjao Road, corresponding to today’s 1850 Hongqiao Road.
295 Hungjao Road - SMC and PWD Nursery 工务局第一苗圃. The Hungjao Road site existed since 1919; its location corresponds to the northeast corner of Hongqiao and Zhonghuan Roads. The elevation of the site was initially considered too low for the healthy growth of trees, but the tireless labor of the Park Department overcame that. By 1929, the Nursery saw some reduction in size, as Hungjao district was being built up. “The opening of Macleod Road, erection of a Telephone Sub-station, erection of the Tuberculosis Sanatorium and the leasing of land to the Shanghai Paper Hunt Club all contributed to the general reduction in Nursery land, until by January 1928 the main Nursery was reduced to approximately half the original size.” -- SMC Report for the Year 1929. By 1934, Shanghai had eight nurseries, but Hungjao Nursery remained the main site for the propagation of trees. It remained an important, if lesser-known, city park with scenic landscaping, attracting hundreds of visitors weekly: “Rose-covered archways make a pretty picture.” Bird-watchers flocked here too.
Nursery in 1934.
297 Hungjao Road - Shanghai Telephone Co. exchange. The building was damaged during the Japanese air raids in October 1937.
299 Hungjao Road - SMC Tuberculosis Sanatorium. Located at the crossing with Macleod (McLeod) Road, its alternative address was 45 Macleod Road. That road exists, partially, as Huaiyin Road 淮阴路. “The Sanatorium was opened on August 20th, 1929, and has proved of great value in the treatment of tuberculous patients on Sanatorium lines, but more has still to be done to keep the patients occupied and to engage them in some sort of productive labour. The male side has been full from the first, but there have always been a few vacancies on the female side. There was little demand for first and second class accommodation, only three such cases having been admitted for short periods only, whilst waiting transfer to a more favourable climate.” -- SMC Report for the Year 1929.
The facility on Hungjao Road, in 1929.
399 Hungjao Road - H. Wakelam’s residence.
441 Hungjao Road - residence of Mr and Mrs N. L. Sparkle.
442 Hungjao Road - W. J. Keswick’s residence. “Of the many houses recently erected in the Hungjao District, the two medium-size residences owned by W. J. Keswick, Esq., are notable examples of domestic architecture. Situated on an ideal site, some seven mow in area, the houses are well set back to the south of Hungjao Road and enjoy an uninterrupted view across the country. Designed by Messrs. Palmer and Turner, the planning of the houses has been carried out in a straightforward and simple manner...” -- Shanghai Sunday Times, 10 December, 1933.
Keswick’s residence, 442 Hungjao Road.
465 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs Lewis R. Andrews. “A charming home, designed by Palmer and Turner, for Mr. L. R. Andrews, a local broker. The popularity of Hungjao as a residential district is seen to be increasing daily and week-end cottages, as well as permanent homes, are springing up in greater numbers as time goes on.” -- Shanghai Sunday Times, 10 December 1933. “Overlooking a spacious garden the newly completed residence on Hungjao Road, is one of Shanghai’s most charming homes. The photo shows a view of the south elevation, with its generous invitation to sunshine. A wide terrace stretches below the verandah.” -- Shanghai Sunday Times, 9 December 1934.
Andrews’ residence, 465 Hungjao Road.
Spared the damage in 1937, the houses in this part of Hungjao Road were damaged during the Communist approach to Shanghai in 1949. “A number of foreign houses at Hungjao were damaged as a result of occupation by Nationalist soldiers during their pretended defense of Shanghai, and the grounds have been left strewn with land mines.” -- North-China Daily News, 4 June 1949.
The second wave of destruction, in 1949. Andrews’ residence, at No. 465, is on the left.
480 Hungjao Road - the residence of Mr and Mrs H. E. Arnhold. This Tudor villa stands at today’s 2310 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路2310号). It is frequently associated with Victor Sassoon and named Rubicon Garden, but I believe this is a mistake. Here is how the Shanghai press welcomed its construction in 1933: “This charming house has been erected on the south side of Hungjao Road, near the corner of Rubicon Road, for H. E. Arnhold, Esq., and has just been completed and occupied. The design was by Algar and Co.. A view of the north side where the main entrance is situated, is seen inset.” -- Shanghai Sunday Times, 10 December 1933.
501 Hungjao Road - Hungjao Golf Club.
The Club House at Hungjao, in 1933.
Trophies from 1935.
514 Hungjao Road - H. S. Lindsay’s exotic residence, designed by Spence, Robinson and Partners.
H. S. Lindsay’s residence, at 514 Hungjao Road, was proximate to Hungjao Golf Course (now Shanghai Zoo).
535 Hungjao Road - Victor Sassoon’s residence Eves. The building survives at today’s 2310 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路2310号.
Victor Sassoon’s Eves residence, 535 Hungjao Road.
553 Hungjao Road - E. A. Nottingham’s residence.
574 Hungjao Road - T. V. Zar Stone Works (opposite SMC Cemetery)
Advertisement for T. V. Zar Stone Works, in All About Shanghai (1935).
The French machine gun post outside T. V. Zar Stone Works, on Hungjao Road. North-China Daily News, 11 November 1937.
578 Hungjao Road - John H. Liddell’s residence. His earlier home, on Avenue Haig, was converted to the Cathedral Girls’ School in 1930. Liddell’s Hungjao Road house featured in the Beautiful Homes of Shanghai in 1933: “Though only a relatively short distance from the heart of Shanghai, the Liddell garden is as quiet as the rural districts. The miniature lake is particularly placid.” -- North-China Daily News, 4 June, 1933.
Liddell’s house, 578 Hungjao Road
580 Hungjao Road - A. W. Burkill’s residence. Designed and built in 1925 by Stewardson, Spence and Watson, the house was sold in 1932 to become Wusi (Husi) Country Club.
A. W. Burkill’s residence around the time of its construction in 1925.
An outdoor party at Husi Country Club in 1934.
595 Hungjao Road - Mr and Mrs W. C. Gomersall (later renumbered 1488 Hongqiao Road 虹桥路1488号):
Gomersall residence, 595 Hungjao Road; the photo comes the Facebook group.
600 Hungjao Road - ‘The Limit,’ the residence of Mr and Mrs W. J. Hawkings:
The Limit in 1933.
There was a faux Chinese-style house next door to the Hawkings’ bungalow, where their in-laws lived.
The Limit, 600 Hungjao Road.
The resilience and good humor of the owners of “The Limit” became legendary. In anticipation of a major battle between the Communists and Nationalists in spring 1949, circa 150 American and British families left Hungjao, but the Hawkings’ refused to move and braved the warfare that raged around them. Both houses survive, right next to the Hongqiao airfield, at 迎宾三路298号. More about ‘The Limit’ in the following entry.
The Hawkings’ house featured in Life magazine in 1949.
Hungjao Road ended at the Hungjao Airport.
Hungjao Airport in 1949.
For reasons I am still struggling to identify, the next number on Hungjao Road was not at its western end, near the airport, but much closer to the downtown, at the southwest corner of Chungsan Road (West Zhongshan Road now). This is:
1172 Hungjao Road - Holly Heath. This elite complex of villas, developed in 1933-1934 by Realty Investment Co, was “built and equipped on the most modern and comfortable lines, but set in the midst of a residential park in company with other homes and gardens, where the fresh country air will be a welcome change after the working hours spent in the city, and where the quiet nights will help to soothe nerves frayed by friction in the business of getting a living.” The total area of the development was more than a hundred mow, each lot being a little more than 3 mow, or half-an-acre (2,000 sq m).
You have to drive to get here. The Chennault couple is in the picture.
The most famous and best photographed residence in Holly Heath is General Claire P. Chennault’s home, one of the few homes to survive to this day. Now its address is 1350 West Zhongshan Road 美华村中山西路1350号.
The Holly Heath development emerged in 1933. PastVu.
Claire P. Chennault’s residence in Holly Heath, photographed in 1947. For more photos of the house and its inhabitants follow the link above.
...to be continued