Since I've declared it Close Enough, I thought I'd produce a little review of the pattern I used to make my corset:
TV110: 1880 Late Victorian Corset.
Imma use the DFWCG standard review format since I'll be posting it there when I have pictures
Summary details:
Reviewer: Me
Reviewer's Rating: 4/5 stars
Price: $13.00
Store:
Truly VictorianMaker: Truly Victorian
Category: Victorian
Liked:
The sizing was easy to figure out, even using non-corseted measurements.
The making up was very fast.
I didn't have to fiddle about with gussets.
Disliked:
I did have to do some math to figure out my size from non-corseted measurements (this is more of a personal thing--I don't like math to begin with).
It can be very easy to mix up pattern pieces or sew them wrong way around (this is why I only give it 4 out of 5).
Reviewer's description and text:
This pattern is based on an actual pattern published in an 1886 magazine. I chose it over the Laughing Moon because it kind of bridges between the two eras I am interested in (Natural Form and Belle Epoch), and it doesn't have gussets. All the shaping is in the seams. There is also an active forum at the TV website where you can find very good help should you need it.
The sizing on the envelope assumes you already have corseted measurements. However, Heather (who owns Truly Victorian and creates the patterns) does provide instructions on how to figure out your corset size from your non-corseted measurements. It is actually very easy to do, basically subtracting from your waist how ever much you want reduced. But as I said above, I don't like math.
The pattern pieces are printed with all sizes together, so it is easy to combine sizes should you need to. I highly recommend investing in a roll of tracing paper to trace off the pieces you need, rather than cutting into the pattern sheets. It makes merging sizes so much easier, and your patterns will last much longer. When cutting out the fabric, don't do what I did and forget to mark the top and bottom of each piece. The pieces have notches to guide which side connects to which, but you can't rely on them lining up when you've altered them. I ended up having to take apart a couple of panels because I sewed one upside down. Otherwise, the construction is very easy, and I could have gotten the majority of it done in one or two evenings. The seams are finished in such a way that they become boning channels, and the pattern recommends when and where to place additional channels. I did deviate from the pattern in that it calls for a busk in front and lacing in the back. I chose to have mine lace in front and back to accommodate for fluctuations in weight and ease of getting into the thing. Other than that I constructed it just as the pattern called for. I did not need to lengthen or shorten it, and using Heather's instructions for figuring out the correct sizes for each part of my body I did not need to do any additional fitting. I used a printed cotton canvas for the outer layer and china twill for the inner, and heavy duty cable ties for boning (which worked for me as I didn't end up with any highly curved seams. This may not work for someone with a more extreme difference in measurements).
In summary, it was very easy to construct and I like the shape that it gives me. I will definitely use this pattern again.