Exhaustive Wedding Entry: Giovanni & Alessandra
1. Flight there - surprisingly smooth, it reminded me how often I travel in winter, with its violently bumpy comparison. One slight exception was the short hop from Frankfurt to Milano, flown in a 737, over windrushed Alps, with a crazed Bushpilot at the stick. The relative friendliness of the Bavarian Lufthansa flight attendants was offset by the pilot who somehow felt the need to emulate a perfect howitzer parabola.
German language note: unusually, the Lufthansa crew used the word “waste,” not “Abfall” or “Müll” during their cleanup before landing.
2. Milano - landing at Linate, I was greeted by Franz and Cecillia. They hadn’t waited long, but felt the nicotine itch, so a quick excursion outside revealed a muggy Milano, and a setting sun that generally made me think of mosquitoes!
A lovely dinner with the Rivas, and we opened up the bottle of The Prisoner (“I’m not a number, I’m a free man red wine!”), and as Beppe properly pointed out, the wine was a bit “hot.” Oh well - I’m going to enjoy finding a properly balanced wine representing California for an Italian’s palate. :-)
A night of mosquito terror! If suffices to say I survived the night with fewer bites than Giovanni (unfortunately), and I killed the hungry vampire in the morning.
3. Wedding Day! Lots of last minute preparation and I helped Giovanni with his cufflinks. Unfortunately, my tie-tying skills were defeated by Giovanni’s great height - the Half-Windsor was an impossibility. Old friends of Giovanni’s were arriving, with the ominous presence of open umbrellas. The overcast skies broke out in rain…buckets of rain. The Rivas cheerfully repeated an Italian saying under these circumstances, “Esposita bagnarta, esposita fortunata!” (“A dampened bride is a lucky bride!”) The convoy set out for Giovanni & Alessandra’s church, and the pews quickly filled. I hung out with Giovanni’s friend Steve, and Steve’s long-time fiancée (whose name I forget at the mo - shame on me) - none of us Catholics, as we tried to follow along with the programme during the Mass. The weather grew particular dramatic at times, but cleared up as the ceremony moved along. Of course Alessandra was resplendent, and Giovanni was in good form too, his stress greatly reduced once the ceremonies were underway. At one point, relatives from both families walked up to summon the blessings of various saints to the wedding.
Altogether a fascinating wedding - the first traditional Italian Catholic wedding I had ever attended. It was interesting to see what rituals are held in common across the Christian faiths, and what rituals are unique to the given faction. I twigged on one of the saints summoned in the ceremony, none other than Edith Stein, a Carmelite I first learned about in Prague. [Reminder: search for film Ale recommended]
I was comforted by three parts of the wedding: that, for all its tradition, was strongly grounded in the real, and the religious home of Giovanni & Alessandra - it was very much their Church and their ceremony…it was not a fantastical over-production resulting from excessive consultation with someone else’s idea of how it should be (e.g. the wedding magazine industry); the wealth of family and friends who wouldn’t miss this day for the world, no matter the weather; and the freedom for the children during the ceremony…few things worse than a stifled child (or churches with isolated glass cabinets).
Later on, the convoys departed in light rains to a place quite beyond the city limits - to an agriturismo site, very nice, with good grub! It was a great chance to reconnect with Helen and Dimitri Kerkentzes; The food came in waves, each exceeding the last, and our table had to surrender fairly early on. Note: as tastey as the place’s meat dish was, it was no match to Nona Bruna’s recipe. [PHOTOS]
I eventually caught a ride back into town with Maximo, just as the AC Milan game began.*
*I was quite happy to see AC Milan hand Man U their derriers. Haha!
Clearly Maria and Beppe were being confronted with the empty nest, and I crashed with Franz & Aoi that night. It was great to catch up with their flatmates too.
Thankfully, I met up with Giovanni and Alessandra later, before they headed out on Friday for their honeymoon to France. Paris and Normandy as I recall.
4. Room 4B - Franz gave me perhaps the coolest gift I’ve yet received, the opportunity to sneak into his school and teach his students! I spent a few hours prepping, and we decided it perhaps worked best with his Geography course, that I present an argument regarding the environment, for his class of 13-14 year olds. I met up with Federico in the morning, and traipsed over to Franz’s school, checking out a few churches along the way.
The lesson: a quick overview of climate change, including the IPCC’s latest confidence rating, what that might mean for impacts (I recall using examples of the recent late snows for the Alps, the lack of rains in April in Milano, and the shocking heat deaths of 2003), then explaining the primary human emission sources in our electricity generation and transport, reviewed the alternatives to supply and demand, and the challenges of each.
The kids were great, they loved the Solio visual aid I shared around, and two girls did fantastic simultaneous translations in both directions. Some asked some interesting questions - several were surprised by how many Chinese have been forcibly resettled by the Three Gorges Dam project, others glommed on what I said about CFLs and fashion. Hey, when in Milano… ;-) It was great too when Franz glommed onto some passive solar architecture, and the classic Spanish house around a courtyard design.
That was serious fun, dare I say dangerous fun. Franz, I think you may have infected me with the pedagogical bug. :-)
I also couldn’t help reflecting later on the differences between this urban Milano school and “the typical” American school experience. For a start, there was a lot in common, youth growing into adults, awkward and arrogant. One big difference - for an urban school, Franz’s seemed well-integrated with the neighbourhood, not set apart, behind large gates…it was a building in the city, not a compound. The youth seemed comfortable in this space, not obligated or imprisoned (though this view may be skewed by the absence of those who don’t feel that comfort and have already elected to be absent). There were no metal detectors and security patrols in Franz’s school - and teachers were busy teaching, not administering rules. Sure the infrastructure was worn down, but $ for $, Euro for Euro, who has made the better investment I wonder?
5. A Tour of Churches -
Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio - Federico, who clearly has been looking at too many religious texts, was amused by the idea of how wonderfully primitive the old Goth’s Mass must have been…5 minutes tops! ;-)
A quick dip into Santa Maria presso San Satiro, I think. I saw the perspective painting, but there were several bishops’ silver busts on the altar…that first I had ever seen of that practice.
By far the church I liked the most was Basilica di San Lorenzo, a Byzantine church, identical to one that once stood in the Eastern Empire, and built beside and atop an ancient Roman colonnade. There was even a proud statue of Emperor Constantine in front of the Church. Federico and Franz explained to me that Milano was the ‘gateway city’ for Byzantium. Quite a surprise for me, really.
I’m convinced I must have walked past San Babila a few times too. Franz, did we wait near San Babila for Aoi?
Duomo Rooftop - in an odd way, seeing Milano from the Duomo’s rooftop, walking on the slightly powdery/slightly-giving marble, and seeing the mix of people on that hot roof … it reminded me a bit of Gaudi’s park in Barcelona…maybe it was just the warmth, the elevation, the public atmosphere, surrounded by Art & Culture. [PHOTOS]
I recall asking Franz and Federico how it was that Milano, with all these very different churches and very different theological beliefs kept itself from tearing itself apart. Quite a job for the Bishop, apparently.
6. Mandy’s Burgers - Before heading to the Duomo, Franz & I met up with Aoi and checked out the University of Milano, and then grabbed a bite to eat. The University’s cloistered porticos reminded me of Magdalen College, Oxford…only larger, longer, drier, and warmer. Quite pleasant, actually. Turns out, Mandy’s Burgers is it’s own Milano institution, set up as an anti-punk hang-out for self-professed squares in those heady youth culture days. I joined in the burger-eating choices and found a genuinely good inauthentic hamburger…instead of crappy American sesame bun, they used quality ciabatta, matched to quality mustard, and a patty with more meat than fat. Altogether, a really nice meat sandwich. :-)
7. Flight Out - Thankfully I convinced Maria not to send any meats with me, and my only difficulty came with the bag of Arborio Giovanni handed me and I brought through German X-rays in my carry-on (but I explained it easily enough to the German security guy). The flight itself was delayed taking off from Linate by an hour, apparently from a cascade of delays in the heavy rain. Frankfurt itself was baking, and at altitude I recharged my Solio quickly. A bit of confusion, a panic, a rush, but I just made it aboard my original connection to London.
One thing I learned from the pleasant Lufthansa crew, they do not know the word “Mimosa” at all. Apparently it’s “orange und sekt” for them. I was pleased to use as much German as I did though. My seat neighbour was an Irishman in light summer clothes, disgusted by the freezing rainfall in Firenze, where he was on business, and wouldn’t be making it back home until evening. I told him the perfect revenge on his coworkers would be to tell them to go to sunny California’s San Francisco in June with shorts and flip-flops. ;-)
8. London - Quick arrival, early even. Met up with Geneva, and had a pleasant Underground ride in. Next time, I really should buy an Oyster card for debiting convenience. Generally, fun in sunny summer-like London walking about, checking out the British Museum, and meeting up with pre-ankle-destruction Liz. I even got in some shopping near a train-vibrating supermarket and acquired my flapjack, HobNob, and Jaffa Cake supply. Friend gathering, Japanese noodly fun^, and meeting Lal before the Ghost in the Shell - Stand Alone Complex: Solid State Society film was viewed. A chilly return to G’s flat, I was reminded again how friggin’ cold the UK is. ;-) Next morning, G & Z introduced me to Borough Market, I can’t believe I had never been there before! I even bowed to the unavoidable temptations of free-range breakfast sausage sandwich.* Liz, however, couldn’t resist the temptations of sleep.
^ Seafood Ramen RATING: Compared with the Japanese noodle soups I can get in San Francisco, I have to rate London’s offering at a minimum of Rn-222. Not a Po-210, and definitely not Pu-239. ;-)
*Zara suggested a new dietary classification: Novo Reformist Flexitarian - for those who are nominally vegetarian, but will eat something novel and new at least once.
Once more the rush, and next time, I should spend more time.
---
EDIT: Wedding photos uploaded
German language note: unusually, the Lufthansa crew used the word “waste,” not “Abfall” or “Müll” during their cleanup before landing.
2. Milano - landing at Linate, I was greeted by Franz and Cecillia. They hadn’t waited long, but felt the nicotine itch, so a quick excursion outside revealed a muggy Milano, and a setting sun that generally made me think of mosquitoes!
A lovely dinner with the Rivas, and we opened up the bottle of The Prisoner (“I’m not a number, I’m a free man red wine!”), and as Beppe properly pointed out, the wine was a bit “hot.” Oh well - I’m going to enjoy finding a properly balanced wine representing California for an Italian’s palate. :-)
A night of mosquito terror! If suffices to say I survived the night with fewer bites than Giovanni (unfortunately), and I killed the hungry vampire in the morning.
3. Wedding Day! Lots of last minute preparation and I helped Giovanni with his cufflinks. Unfortunately, my tie-tying skills were defeated by Giovanni’s great height - the Half-Windsor was an impossibility. Old friends of Giovanni’s were arriving, with the ominous presence of open umbrellas. The overcast skies broke out in rain…buckets of rain. The Rivas cheerfully repeated an Italian saying under these circumstances, “Esposita bagnarta, esposita fortunata!” (“A dampened bride is a lucky bride!”) The convoy set out for Giovanni & Alessandra’s church, and the pews quickly filled. I hung out with Giovanni’s friend Steve, and Steve’s long-time fiancée (whose name I forget at the mo - shame on me) - none of us Catholics, as we tried to follow along with the programme during the Mass. The weather grew particular dramatic at times, but cleared up as the ceremony moved along. Of course Alessandra was resplendent, and Giovanni was in good form too, his stress greatly reduced once the ceremonies were underway. At one point, relatives from both families walked up to summon the blessings of various saints to the wedding.
Altogether a fascinating wedding - the first traditional Italian Catholic wedding I had ever attended. It was interesting to see what rituals are held in common across the Christian faiths, and what rituals are unique to the given faction. I twigged on one of the saints summoned in the ceremony, none other than Edith Stein, a Carmelite I first learned about in Prague. [Reminder: search for film Ale recommended]
I was comforted by three parts of the wedding: that, for all its tradition, was strongly grounded in the real, and the religious home of Giovanni & Alessandra - it was very much their Church and their ceremony…it was not a fantastical over-production resulting from excessive consultation with someone else’s idea of how it should be (e.g. the wedding magazine industry); the wealth of family and friends who wouldn’t miss this day for the world, no matter the weather; and the freedom for the children during the ceremony…few things worse than a stifled child (or churches with isolated glass cabinets).
Later on, the convoys departed in light rains to a place quite beyond the city limits - to an agriturismo site, very nice, with good grub! It was a great chance to reconnect with Helen and Dimitri Kerkentzes; The food came in waves, each exceeding the last, and our table had to surrender fairly early on. Note: as tastey as the place’s meat dish was, it was no match to Nona Bruna’s recipe. [PHOTOS]
I eventually caught a ride back into town with Maximo, just as the AC Milan game began.*
*I was quite happy to see AC Milan hand Man U their derriers. Haha!
Clearly Maria and Beppe were being confronted with the empty nest, and I crashed with Franz & Aoi that night. It was great to catch up with their flatmates too.
Thankfully, I met up with Giovanni and Alessandra later, before they headed out on Friday for their honeymoon to France. Paris and Normandy as I recall.
4. Room 4B - Franz gave me perhaps the coolest gift I’ve yet received, the opportunity to sneak into his school and teach his students! I spent a few hours prepping, and we decided it perhaps worked best with his Geography course, that I present an argument regarding the environment, for his class of 13-14 year olds. I met up with Federico in the morning, and traipsed over to Franz’s school, checking out a few churches along the way.
The lesson: a quick overview of climate change, including the IPCC’s latest confidence rating, what that might mean for impacts (I recall using examples of the recent late snows for the Alps, the lack of rains in April in Milano, and the shocking heat deaths of 2003), then explaining the primary human emission sources in our electricity generation and transport, reviewed the alternatives to supply and demand, and the challenges of each.
The kids were great, they loved the Solio visual aid I shared around, and two girls did fantastic simultaneous translations in both directions. Some asked some interesting questions - several were surprised by how many Chinese have been forcibly resettled by the Three Gorges Dam project, others glommed on what I said about CFLs and fashion. Hey, when in Milano… ;-) It was great too when Franz glommed onto some passive solar architecture, and the classic Spanish house around a courtyard design.
That was serious fun, dare I say dangerous fun. Franz, I think you may have infected me with the pedagogical bug. :-)
I also couldn’t help reflecting later on the differences between this urban Milano school and “the typical” American school experience. For a start, there was a lot in common, youth growing into adults, awkward and arrogant. One big difference - for an urban school, Franz’s seemed well-integrated with the neighbourhood, not set apart, behind large gates…it was a building in the city, not a compound. The youth seemed comfortable in this space, not obligated or imprisoned (though this view may be skewed by the absence of those who don’t feel that comfort and have already elected to be absent). There were no metal detectors and security patrols in Franz’s school - and teachers were busy teaching, not administering rules. Sure the infrastructure was worn down, but $ for $, Euro for Euro, who has made the better investment I wonder?
5. A Tour of Churches -
Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio - Federico, who clearly has been looking at too many religious texts, was amused by the idea of how wonderfully primitive the old Goth’s Mass must have been…5 minutes tops! ;-)
A quick dip into Santa Maria presso San Satiro, I think. I saw the perspective painting, but there were several bishops’ silver busts on the altar…that first I had ever seen of that practice.
By far the church I liked the most was Basilica di San Lorenzo, a Byzantine church, identical to one that once stood in the Eastern Empire, and built beside and atop an ancient Roman colonnade. There was even a proud statue of Emperor Constantine in front of the Church. Federico and Franz explained to me that Milano was the ‘gateway city’ for Byzantium. Quite a surprise for me, really.
I’m convinced I must have walked past San Babila a few times too. Franz, did we wait near San Babila for Aoi?
Duomo Rooftop - in an odd way, seeing Milano from the Duomo’s rooftop, walking on the slightly powdery/slightly-giving marble, and seeing the mix of people on that hot roof … it reminded me a bit of Gaudi’s park in Barcelona…maybe it was just the warmth, the elevation, the public atmosphere, surrounded by Art & Culture. [PHOTOS]
I recall asking Franz and Federico how it was that Milano, with all these very different churches and very different theological beliefs kept itself from tearing itself apart. Quite a job for the Bishop, apparently.
6. Mandy’s Burgers - Before heading to the Duomo, Franz & I met up with Aoi and checked out the University of Milano, and then grabbed a bite to eat. The University’s cloistered porticos reminded me of Magdalen College, Oxford…only larger, longer, drier, and warmer. Quite pleasant, actually. Turns out, Mandy’s Burgers is it’s own Milano institution, set up as an anti-punk hang-out for self-professed squares in those heady youth culture days. I joined in the burger-eating choices and found a genuinely good inauthentic hamburger…instead of crappy American sesame bun, they used quality ciabatta, matched to quality mustard, and a patty with more meat than fat. Altogether, a really nice meat sandwich. :-)
7. Flight Out - Thankfully I convinced Maria not to send any meats with me, and my only difficulty came with the bag of Arborio Giovanni handed me and I brought through German X-rays in my carry-on (but I explained it easily enough to the German security guy). The flight itself was delayed taking off from Linate by an hour, apparently from a cascade of delays in the heavy rain. Frankfurt itself was baking, and at altitude I recharged my Solio quickly. A bit of confusion, a panic, a rush, but I just made it aboard my original connection to London.
One thing I learned from the pleasant Lufthansa crew, they do not know the word “Mimosa” at all. Apparently it’s “orange und sekt” for them. I was pleased to use as much German as I did though. My seat neighbour was an Irishman in light summer clothes, disgusted by the freezing rainfall in Firenze, where he was on business, and wouldn’t be making it back home until evening. I told him the perfect revenge on his coworkers would be to tell them to go to sunny California’s San Francisco in June with shorts and flip-flops. ;-)
8. London - Quick arrival, early even. Met up with Geneva, and had a pleasant Underground ride in. Next time, I really should buy an Oyster card for debiting convenience. Generally, fun in sunny summer-like London walking about, checking out the British Museum, and meeting up with pre-ankle-destruction Liz. I even got in some shopping near a train-vibrating supermarket and acquired my flapjack, HobNob, and Jaffa Cake supply. Friend gathering, Japanese noodly fun^, and meeting Lal before the Ghost in the Shell - Stand Alone Complex: Solid State Society film was viewed. A chilly return to G’s flat, I was reminded again how friggin’ cold the UK is. ;-) Next morning, G & Z introduced me to Borough Market, I can’t believe I had never been there before! I even bowed to the unavoidable temptations of free-range breakfast sausage sandwich.* Liz, however, couldn’t resist the temptations of sleep.
^ Seafood Ramen RATING: Compared with the Japanese noodle soups I can get in San Francisco, I have to rate London’s offering at a minimum of Rn-222. Not a Po-210, and definitely not Pu-239. ;-)
*Zara suggested a new dietary classification: Novo Reformist Flexitarian - for those who are nominally vegetarian, but will eat something novel and new at least once.
Once more the rush, and next time, I should spend more time.
---
EDIT: Wedding photos uploaded