On my second day in Taupo, I did the Tongariro Crossing. I was very lucky with good weather and decided to go for it instead of waiting a day. The town can wait, the crossing cant :P
There's a shuttle service to the start of the track and pick-up at the end, plus they have equipment for rent if you need it and make sure you get down on the other end. And you dont walk alone, since there is plenty of people starting there from the bus at 8am.
We had a bit of a cloud for the first hour, but then it disappeared and we had awesome weather for the crossing.
The facts: 18.4km, about 1000m difference in altitude, 7-9 hours
Start was at Mangatepopo road, the first hour was relatively easy going with some climbs. The landscape was pretty much Mordor and Ithilien. I'm pretty sure I saw Gollum's pool At least I think it is the one he gets caught in Ithilien - or at least a pool like it :P Then after the soda springs, the real climb starts. Stairs, stairs, more stairs. All surrounded by old lava streams.
Arriving at the saddle between Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro on hour later, the South crater starts and it is more even. For a bit. Here the track to the summit of Mt Ngauruhoe leads off, but it was too dangerous due to the snow. In summer an earlier shuttle is offered to include time for the summit. There was also snow in the south crater and plenty of mud where it was melting. On the other side of the south crater, the track goes up a ridge to the highest point of the crossing at 1886 metres. No stairs this time, but lava gravel and though the climb is not that long, it is still exhausting. This is also the "point of no return", in bad weather, now it is better to continue than to turn back. Up here the track to the Tongariro summit goes off to the left (also not to be done in snow).
The track goes down to the emerald lakes that where white with a snow and ice cover, passing the red crater. To the right, steam rises from cracks and comes up from under the ice. The bigger one of the emeral lakes was not completely covered with ice and I could get a glimpse of the colour. Just past the lakes a track to the Oturere Hut goes off, for doing the circuit. I had a short rest near the lakes, just below the ridge where there was no wind. It is dangerous to stay for long in these places, though, since poisonous gasses can build up. Then it was back to the crossing and continuing through the snow field in the central crater and up to a ridge between the crater and the blue lake (which was white with snow). Past the blue lake, it is downhill the rest of the way. In some parts the track was snow covered and only a narrow footpath on the snow, but then it opened to a wide walkway to the Ketehai Hut. From there on it continued through tussock, passing a thermal area and suddenly it goes into the bush. There's a small stream and I was tempted to put my feet in to cool them, but I didnt know how far it was to the carpark and I didnt dare to stop. It wasnt far actually and a lot of people where there already at 3pm. All were exhausted at the end, most fell asleep on the bus home.
pics of my crossing:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaoswerecat/sets/72157625112248498/ Some other backpackers from my lodge went the next day and had ice rain, fog, strong winds etc. Today the mountain is even closed, there was new snow and a bitter cold night. Just waiting at the bus stop made me wish I had bought a woolen hat.