(no subject)
today, the surf was insane. i could have been severly injured; but i wasn't. so i'm good
except for the broken leash and fin, and screwed up rail.
so my dad, steven, cameron, me and ian went to ventura. probably the best surf i've ever been out in. 6-10 feet. like this
and this
those are the ones i took of random guys after i almost died. anyway
i caught this 9 footer [according to ian, who was looking down on me from the peak of the wave].
it was the size of about this one
and as he was was getting over the crest, he lost his board. so as i'm flying by, his board comes out and almost hits me, so i grab it and am holding it while i'm surfing on the best wave of my life. obviously i had to let it go as i kept going, and when it did, it fell and hit the back of my board, throwing me off. my leash snapped and took a fin with it. so i had to swim 100 yards into the bay, where my board is getting thrashed into the rocks by ginormous waves. eh, it was fun
going again after church tomorrow. yesss
--ian-->
except for the broken leash and fin, and screwed up rail.
so my dad, steven, cameron, me and ian went to ventura. probably the best surf i've ever been out in. 6-10 feet. like this
and this
those are the ones i took of random guys after i almost died. anyway
i caught this 9 footer [according to ian, who was looking down on me from the peak of the wave].
it was the size of about this one
and as he was was getting over the crest, he lost his board. so as i'm flying by, his board comes out and almost hits me, so i grab it and am holding it while i'm surfing on the best wave of my life. obviously i had to let it go as i kept going, and when it did, it fell and hit the back of my board, throwing me off. my leash snapped and took a fin with it. so i had to swim 100 yards into the bay, where my board is getting thrashed into the rocks by ginormous waves. eh, it was fun
going again after church tomorrow. yesss
--ian-->