Simonetta. La Prima Donna della Moda Italiana: ana

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Simonetta. La Prima Donna della Moda Italiana

May 13, 2012 02:28

Яркая, роскошная, с гордым профилем, примадонна итальянской моды Симонетта Колонна ди Чезаро ( Simonetta Colonna di Cesaró) не скрывает своего возраста. Напротив, донна Симонетта несет свои девяносто, как носили когда-то римские модницы придуманные ей невесомые меховые пелеринки - легко и непринужденно.

Впитавшая атмосферу элегантности и космополитизма с детства, она стала олицетворением экзотического послевоенного шика. Потомственная аристократка, Симонетта выбрала путь, полный приключений и не боялась идти на риск. Отвага и решительность всегда помогали ей и в творчестве, и в личной жизни. Еще студенткой мятежная Симонетта попала в тюрьму за антифашисткую деятельность. Освободившись в 1944 году, она немедленно занялась строительством карьеры в моде: открыла собственное ателье на виа Грегориана в Риме (в семейном дворце) и устроила первый показ четырнадцати моделей. В разоренном войной городе не было ни тканей, ни ниток для швейных машин, так что новоиспеченный модельер показала коллекцию, созданную из фартуков, кухонных полотенец, лент, тесемок и соломки. В 1949-м ее вещи уже продаются в Америке, в сети Bergdorf Goodman, для которой Симонетта вскоре создает отдельную линию. В США, красавица и заслужила титул «гламурной графини». История ее жизни, ее портреты и фотографии, эскизы моделей - все это заполнило страницы журналов, оценивших столь невероятное соединение красоты, ума, предприимчивости и таланта. Коллекциям Симонетты неизменно сопутствовал успех, потому что они воплощали образ подлинно шикарной женщины и полностью соответствовали личности своей создательницы.

Simonetta wearing a self-designed silk black coat with big, upturned collar, photo by Clifford Coffin, 1951

"You cannot be completely comfortable when you are chic - you need a good corset, well-fitting shoes with high heels, a neat hairdo."

Simonetta by Norman Parkinson, 1952

"The best way to conceal defects is to emphasize them. If you have a big bust, drape it instead of trying to flatten it down, then no one knows which is you and which is dress. If you have big hips, wear a wide skirt. If you have a big mouth paint it to look bigger and it will be an arresting feature."

Simonetta

Теория моды №8 (2008). Текст: Любовь Попова

Simonetta - Roma. Cocktail dress in black crepe-chiffon: the back is pleated to creat a cape, 1958.

SIMONETTA COLONNA DI CESARÒ

Simonetta and Fabiani, Paris, 1962

Simonetta, New-York, 1963

Ruben Toledo Drawing for the Simonetta Exhibition at Palazzo Pitti.

LIFE 20 August 1951

Woman's Home Companion, 1956

Simonetta Visconti in posa sulla scaletta dell'aereo della Paa.

Simonetta Colonna di Cesarò trying a dress for Theo Graham, 1961, photo Leombuno Bodi

Donna Simonetta con il marito, il sarto Fabiani

Celebrating the inauguration of Maison Simonetta e Fabiani in Paris, 1961

Simonetta with her family

Simonetta, wearing one of her designs, with her son Bardo, 1956

Simonetta in her home at Rue de Mondovi, Paris, 1963

Dress by Simonetta, photo by Regina Relang, 1957

Chiffon blouson dress by Simonetta, photo by William Klein, Rome, Vogue 1958

Dorian Leigh in a Formal Gown by Simonetta (1952)

Dorian Leigh models a black evening gown with beaded waist by Simonetta (right)

Model Dorian Leigh wears a Simonetta Visconti evening gown on a Rome balcony. 1952.

Debutante Elizabeth Guest in a sleeveless, printed organdy dress by Simonetta, sitting in a meadow with flowers in her hand

Model in puffy shorts with big-collared shirt and wide leather girdle by Simonetta, photo by Mark Shaw in Portofino, Italy 1955

Dorothea wearing Simonetta, photo by William Klein, 1962

Dresses by Simonetta, photo by Regina Relang, 1958

Florence Grinda stands on mod furniture wearing an asymetrical wrap pajama jumpsuit in the Simonetta Paris

Elsa in black corduroy bathing suit by Simonetta featuring bloomer pants, photo by Mark Shaw in Portofino for LIFE, Jan. 1955

Elsa in Simonetta's shirred tunic worn over brief pants, photo by Mark Shaw in Portofino for LIFE, Jan. 1955

Elsa Martinelli in playsuit by Simonetta, photo by Mark Shaw in Portofino, Italy for LIFE, Jan. 1955

Ivy Nicolson indossa un abito di Simonetta e Fabiani, 1955

Mirella is wearing a black organza trapeze trimmed in ruffles by Simonetta, photo by William Klein, Vogue US 1965

Model by Simonetta,1961

Model is wearing a creation by Simonetta and photographed by Saul Leiter.

Models Wearing Suit by Simonetta and Fabiani

The dress was designed by Italian fashion designers Simonetta and Fabiani for their 1963 winter collection.

Simone (in an elegant linen suit by Simonetta) with members of Roman wrestling team, photo by William Klein, Rome, 1960

Simone (wearing Simonetta) with director Federico Fellini, photo by William Klein, Rome, 1960

Simone D'Aillencourt in a dress by Fabiani, photo by William Klein, Rome 1962

Simone in dress by Fabiani, photo by William Klein, Rome, 1960

William Klein. Foro Romano, Dorothy Mc Gowan in un abito di Fabiani, 1957.

Sondra Peterson in design by Simonetta e Fabiani, Sept. 1962

Benedetta Barzini in a purple-green plaid high waisted dress with short matching jacket by Fabiani for Feder, photo by Bert Stern for Vogue 1967

Benedetta in Fabiani's white tent coat, flaring from narrow shoulders, photo by Henry Clarke for Vogue, 1968

Creation by the Fabiani Fashion House

Flower print double-skirt dress by Fabiani and circle print dress by Emilio Schuberth, Italian designers, Burda Moden, Feb. 1960

Ivy Nicholson in coat by Fabiani, photo by Pasquale De Antonis for Belezza (magazine), 1955

Model in Fabiani's bag dress is entering Harry's Bar in Paris, photo by Mark Shaw, 1957

Model is wearing a creation by Fabiani and photographed by Saul Leiter.

Veruschka in Fabiani's Russian-inspired ensemble, photo by Henry Clarke for Vogue UK, 1966

A red panelled cocktail dress from Italian designer Fabiani. The model is pictured posing precariously in front of the Pirelli building, Mark Kauffman, 1961