Day 7 - Kyoto and the Shinkasen
So as I mentioned, the earthquake yesterday morning didn't affect us at all. We were probably in a taxi at the time on the way to the rail station and didn't notice or feel anything. In fact, we didn't even hear about it until the end of the day, and there's a headline in the Japan Times on it this morning.
So my topic this morning is regarding the "cute" Japanese. For anyone who has seen anime, you know how cartoon characters all have very large, doe-like eyes, much like baby puppies. And the general theme of cuteness here is pretty pervasive. In much the same way that sex sells in the US, cute sells here. It's not abnormal to see cartoon characters advertising alcohol, hangover cures, and salad dressing. There was a commercial on US TV a little while ago where Candice from Divine Design is talking about how her living room is free of "blinky flashy chirpy toys." And that's what I think of walking around in Japan. That the advertising is "blinky, flashy and chripy" in a cute non-assualtive way. And maybe that's why they do it this way. Because if a cartoon is trying to sell you something, you aren't being pushed into anything.
I mean really, can you imagine being forced into buying a product by Smurfette? Or thinking of Mickey Mouse and Bugs Bunny getting competitive about your cell phone plan? Ok, well maybe we can, but that's just because we're sick minded Americans and would derive a twisted sense of humor out of a cartoon tussle.
Day 7 started with an 8am check-out from our hotel in Tokyo. We had shipped our major luggage on to the next area (mine to Kyoto and the others to Hakata), so we each just had a small rolling carry-on to toss in the back of a cab. Once we got to Tokyo station there was a few moments of confusion, as one cab dropped off at the south entrance, and the rest at the North entrance. But we made it to the tracks just fine, lined ourselves up in true Japanese orderly fashion and waited for the train to come in.
Zoom, in comes the bullet train, and we notice Japanese women in salmon colored smocks waiting by the openings in the gate. As soon as the train stops, in they run. Through the windows we witnessed a miracle in efficiency. First the banks of seats on the train were swung around to face the other direction (the way the train goes), then one woman ran through the car pulling the headrest covers off. As the other woman sweeps the newly redirected seats while another runs through and tosses new covers onto to tops of the seats. The sweeper then velcros on the new covers before moving on to the next bank of seats. They turned the entire car over in about 7 minutes, and then let the passengers on! Right on time, the train pulls out of the station and you're off in a completely cleaned car.
The Shinkasen, or bullet train, runs throughout the country. There are different classes, the Nozomi train is the fastest and not available on our train passes. However we took a slightly slower train that probably still runs at 90 mph. The seats are like airline seats, but with twice the leg room. Let me tell you, it's the life. There's a woman with a cart that comes through to sell drinks and snacks, there's restrooms in each car, places to put your carry-ons, and big windows! We passed by Mt. Fuji at a distance, which was pretty hazy and indistinct, but I hopefully got a few pictures that show the snow cap. After about three hours we wooshed into the station in Kyoto, and eventually made our way over to the hotel.
I have to tell you, due to the esteemed history of Kyoto, I was expecting an ancient village with nothing but wood temples and preserved homes. Sadly but realistically, it's a normal modern city, with scattered old temples throughout. During WWII, Kyoto was not bombed, I believe Allied forces were saving it for a last ditch effort. If the A Bomb didn't stop the Japanese, I believe we would have bombed Kyoto, center of culture and history for Japan to tear the heart out of Japan.
After some interesting group dynamics at the hotel (we were all cranky and needed to eat) we decided to split into two groups for the afternoon. Jodi, Grant, Darnita, Janet and Joe all decided to go to a botanical garden in Kyoto, while Charles and I needed to get out of the city and into the wilderness. After looking at a few different suggested walks, we decided to head back to the station and catch a bus to Ohara. To our surprise it was about an hour and a half on a regular city bus with real stops, and thankfully air conditioning. As we started to get further out of the city, the mountains started to close around the road, and suddenly it was like we were in real Japan. After a 20 minute ride uphill and through the hills, we stopped in the tiny town of Ohara. There are several temples in the area, and we decided to go to the one on the west side, not really paying attention to any description in the guide book.
We wandered through the town on narrow paved sidewalks brushing right up against houses and buildings. Every available inch of flat land was turned into gardens, rice paddy's and flower beds. The skyline of the mountains was that classic jagged Japanese mountain line, and I got the sense that I had finally ARRIVED in Japan. I had touched down in Tokyo the week before, but it was in many ways much like any large city. Getting off the bus and wandering through a small town in the heart of the country made me realize I really was in Japan, and a traveler, not just a tourist.
So along the walks we go, across a small bridge an onto another sidewalk. As we started to climb the hill we hear a beep behind us and realize that we're not on a sidewalk at all, but a road about four and a half feet wide, and there's a car wanting to pass! So off to the side we go, the car passes by, and we continue up. There were several people with crafts in front of their houses to take advantage of the temple traffic, and we walked past a combination paint your own ceramics store and onsen bar (more about that later). So up to the foot of the temple we went, and paid our entrance fee. Climbing up an old stone path worn smooth by years of foot traffic, we entered into a flat space of serenity.
Jakkoin Temple is a particularly female centered temple. There are representations of the various priestesses, who now are depicted as nuns in the classic black habit white collar type outfits. Upon entering the temple area, there was a flat gravel Japanese garden with various shrubs and statues, including a very serene androgynous diety of some sort. On the left of the complex was a porchfront that you could sit on an listen to an audio reply of one of the priestesses. Further back was a beautiful boy pond with a three tiered waterfall into it. The waterfalls were created at heights and angles that make particular tones to harmonize with one another. The water came right out of a wall of rock, directly from the life of the mountain and into the pond. Running from the pond and along the front of the temple itself was a boardwalk area, so we left our shoes and socks along side and wandered along the front, and then eventually into the temple itself.
It's a bit weird to go someplace that others take very seriously in a religious way, and to be there as an observer. The temple experienced a very bad fire about 4 years ago, which destroyed the deity figure and also a holy tree outside. There is a picture inside the temple of the burned statue, and one of the Buddist nuns was there explaining. In a museum outside the main temple area there were also blown up pictures of the news story and photos of the monks and nuns watching the fire. Very very sad. However, new statutes have been constructed, and a new temple building, all of which is very beautiful now.
There's something very serene about places that brush the soul of the world. I'd be perfectly happy just sitting on one of the temple porches watching the sun filter through the Japanese maple leaves, listening to the sound of water falling, birds singing, the wind blowing through the valleys. Which I supposed is the whole point.
After wandering the temple area, we climbed back down to the street and back toward the bus station. However, we had decided to stop and try the foot spa onsen, and so went inside. We weren't quite sure how it worked, but basically you order a drink at the front cashier, and then go to the side porch room, remove your shoes, grab a towel and pick a place at the table. Pictures do better justice than words:
We had a sweet plum sake drink with ice in it, and sat around for probably about an hour letting our feet soak and just enjoying the air.
After our spa experience we walked back through town to the bus station and boarded a bus back to Kyoto. On the way north we had seen several stops that would let us access the "Philosopher's Walk," so we decided to get off the bus in North Kyoto and wander over. Turns out "wandering" on the map we had was more like trying to cross half of the city of Kyoto, but it was a nice evening around sunset, the air was still warm and we were both tired of being cooped up in hotel rooms, trains and buses. We did eventually find the Philosopher's walk, which two rows of stone pavers along a canal in the east side of the city. It butts right up to the eastern mountains in Kyoto, so on the far side are severe uphills dotted with various shrines and temples. It is apparently a favorite place for young men and women to go walking together, and we saw many couples taking in various parts of the walk.
As it was around sunset, it began to get dark and it was as if they had rolled in the sidewalks. At one point we decided to head toward a shrine (knowing it would be closed, but maybe interesting for pictures), and ended up in a hillside graveyard. Many of the "tombstones" were statues of various Buddhist deities, and most had these flat 6' tall wood slats with writing on them fanned out behind the headstone. I'll have to look it up and post a link, I have no idea right now what it was about.
After walking the entire Philosopher's Walk, we ended up in a residential area with no idea where to go. We wandered down several streets, noticing the decided lack of blaring TVs, loud conversations and screaming children. It was weirdly quiet, which usually makes American's think something is wrong or they're missing something. After making several turns we came to a shrine that had lit lanterns outside and open gates. We strolled around the area, taking pictures of some of the lanterns, and enjoying the serenity of the place.
Back out on the street we eventually found our way to a main street and followed it and the river for a while. There seemed to be more life on the other side of the river, so we crossed over and ended up in a hotel area with different shops and restaurants. The first we tried to go into wouldn't sit a party of two, but next door was a small place with a bar and grill. When I say that I mean literally a bar that you sat at, and a grill behind it that they cooked your food on. We didn't know any Japanese, and the cook really didn't know English. So when he came to take our order, he realized there was going to be a language problem. Luckily I know the word for Beer "biru" and we ordered some drinks first. Then he was able to point at the menu and show us "Cheecken" and "Pork." So we just both said "Pork" and made the OK sign with our hands. He seemed to get that, but then came back in about 5 minutes to take our order. I just shrugged my shoulders, said "Pork?" and pointed to several spots on the menu, to which he pointed and said with difficulty "Pork Japanese Hamburger." I nodded, and Charles just said "Pork" again. We were content with whatever he was going to cook us, but I think he was afraid we would order something we didn't like. We ended up with a pork meatloaf type thing which was delicious, and a dish that took thin strips of pork loin and wrapped them around the biggest green onion I've ever seen. Both were wonderful, and after another biru we paid our bill (at least numbers work the same here!) and wandered back out into the street.
Lucky for us, each hotel has a card with a map to the hotel, and directions for taxi drivers. You basically just give the card to your taxi driver and they get you home. Our taxi guy got us back with no problem, and after catching up quickly with the other group it was off to bed.
I'm glad we took the path less traveled today, because it gave us a glimpse of the true Japan, which we probably wouldn't have seen otherwise!
Pictures of the day are here: http://flickr.com/photos/11497507@N08/sets/72157605620129320/
So my topic this morning is regarding the "cute" Japanese. For anyone who has seen anime, you know how cartoon characters all have very large, doe-like eyes, much like baby puppies. And the general theme of cuteness here is pretty pervasive. In much the same way that sex sells in the US, cute sells here. It's not abnormal to see cartoon characters advertising alcohol, hangover cures, and salad dressing. There was a commercial on US TV a little while ago where Candice from Divine Design is talking about how her living room is free of "blinky flashy chirpy toys." And that's what I think of walking around in Japan. That the advertising is "blinky, flashy and chripy" in a cute non-assualtive way. And maybe that's why they do it this way. Because if a cartoon is trying to sell you something, you aren't being pushed into anything.
I mean really, can you imagine being forced into buying a product by Smurfette? Or thinking of Mickey Mouse and Bugs Bunny getting competitive about your cell phone plan? Ok, well maybe we can, but that's just because we're sick minded Americans and would derive a twisted sense of humor out of a cartoon tussle.
Day 7 started with an 8am check-out from our hotel in Tokyo. We had shipped our major luggage on to the next area (mine to Kyoto and the others to Hakata), so we each just had a small rolling carry-on to toss in the back of a cab. Once we got to Tokyo station there was a few moments of confusion, as one cab dropped off at the south entrance, and the rest at the North entrance. But we made it to the tracks just fine, lined ourselves up in true Japanese orderly fashion and waited for the train to come in.
Zoom, in comes the bullet train, and we notice Japanese women in salmon colored smocks waiting by the openings in the gate. As soon as the train stops, in they run. Through the windows we witnessed a miracle in efficiency. First the banks of seats on the train were swung around to face the other direction (the way the train goes), then one woman ran through the car pulling the headrest covers off. As the other woman sweeps the newly redirected seats while another runs through and tosses new covers onto to tops of the seats. The sweeper then velcros on the new covers before moving on to the next bank of seats. They turned the entire car over in about 7 minutes, and then let the passengers on! Right on time, the train pulls out of the station and you're off in a completely cleaned car.
The Shinkasen, or bullet train, runs throughout the country. There are different classes, the Nozomi train is the fastest and not available on our train passes. However we took a slightly slower train that probably still runs at 90 mph. The seats are like airline seats, but with twice the leg room. Let me tell you, it's the life. There's a woman with a cart that comes through to sell drinks and snacks, there's restrooms in each car, places to put your carry-ons, and big windows! We passed by Mt. Fuji at a distance, which was pretty hazy and indistinct, but I hopefully got a few pictures that show the snow cap. After about three hours we wooshed into the station in Kyoto, and eventually made our way over to the hotel.
I have to tell you, due to the esteemed history of Kyoto, I was expecting an ancient village with nothing but wood temples and preserved homes. Sadly but realistically, it's a normal modern city, with scattered old temples throughout. During WWII, Kyoto was not bombed, I believe Allied forces were saving it for a last ditch effort. If the A Bomb didn't stop the Japanese, I believe we would have bombed Kyoto, center of culture and history for Japan to tear the heart out of Japan.
After some interesting group dynamics at the hotel (we were all cranky and needed to eat) we decided to split into two groups for the afternoon. Jodi, Grant, Darnita, Janet and Joe all decided to go to a botanical garden in Kyoto, while Charles and I needed to get out of the city and into the wilderness. After looking at a few different suggested walks, we decided to head back to the station and catch a bus to Ohara. To our surprise it was about an hour and a half on a regular city bus with real stops, and thankfully air conditioning. As we started to get further out of the city, the mountains started to close around the road, and suddenly it was like we were in real Japan. After a 20 minute ride uphill and through the hills, we stopped in the tiny town of Ohara. There are several temples in the area, and we decided to go to the one on the west side, not really paying attention to any description in the guide book.
We wandered through the town on narrow paved sidewalks brushing right up against houses and buildings. Every available inch of flat land was turned into gardens, rice paddy's and flower beds. The skyline of the mountains was that classic jagged Japanese mountain line, and I got the sense that I had finally ARRIVED in Japan. I had touched down in Tokyo the week before, but it was in many ways much like any large city. Getting off the bus and wandering through a small town in the heart of the country made me realize I really was in Japan, and a traveler, not just a tourist.
So along the walks we go, across a small bridge an onto another sidewalk. As we started to climb the hill we hear a beep behind us and realize that we're not on a sidewalk at all, but a road about four and a half feet wide, and there's a car wanting to pass! So off to the side we go, the car passes by, and we continue up. There were several people with crafts in front of their houses to take advantage of the temple traffic, and we walked past a combination paint your own ceramics store and onsen bar (more about that later). So up to the foot of the temple we went, and paid our entrance fee. Climbing up an old stone path worn smooth by years of foot traffic, we entered into a flat space of serenity.
Jakkoin Temple is a particularly female centered temple. There are representations of the various priestesses, who now are depicted as nuns in the classic black habit white collar type outfits. Upon entering the temple area, there was a flat gravel Japanese garden with various shrubs and statues, including a very serene androgynous diety of some sort. On the left of the complex was a porchfront that you could sit on an listen to an audio reply of one of the priestesses. Further back was a beautiful boy pond with a three tiered waterfall into it. The waterfalls were created at heights and angles that make particular tones to harmonize with one another. The water came right out of a wall of rock, directly from the life of the mountain and into the pond. Running from the pond and along the front of the temple itself was a boardwalk area, so we left our shoes and socks along side and wandered along the front, and then eventually into the temple itself.
It's a bit weird to go someplace that others take very seriously in a religious way, and to be there as an observer. The temple experienced a very bad fire about 4 years ago, which destroyed the deity figure and also a holy tree outside. There is a picture inside the temple of the burned statue, and one of the Buddist nuns was there explaining. In a museum outside the main temple area there were also blown up pictures of the news story and photos of the monks and nuns watching the fire. Very very sad. However, new statutes have been constructed, and a new temple building, all of which is very beautiful now.
There's something very serene about places that brush the soul of the world. I'd be perfectly happy just sitting on one of the temple porches watching the sun filter through the Japanese maple leaves, listening to the sound of water falling, birds singing, the wind blowing through the valleys. Which I supposed is the whole point.
After wandering the temple area, we climbed back down to the street and back toward the bus station. However, we had decided to stop and try the foot spa onsen, and so went inside. We weren't quite sure how it worked, but basically you order a drink at the front cashier, and then go to the side porch room, remove your shoes, grab a towel and pick a place at the table. Pictures do better justice than words:
We had a sweet plum sake drink with ice in it, and sat around for probably about an hour letting our feet soak and just enjoying the air.
After our spa experience we walked back through town to the bus station and boarded a bus back to Kyoto. On the way north we had seen several stops that would let us access the "Philosopher's Walk," so we decided to get off the bus in North Kyoto and wander over. Turns out "wandering" on the map we had was more like trying to cross half of the city of Kyoto, but it was a nice evening around sunset, the air was still warm and we were both tired of being cooped up in hotel rooms, trains and buses. We did eventually find the Philosopher's walk, which two rows of stone pavers along a canal in the east side of the city. It butts right up to the eastern mountains in Kyoto, so on the far side are severe uphills dotted with various shrines and temples. It is apparently a favorite place for young men and women to go walking together, and we saw many couples taking in various parts of the walk.
As it was around sunset, it began to get dark and it was as if they had rolled in the sidewalks. At one point we decided to head toward a shrine (knowing it would be closed, but maybe interesting for pictures), and ended up in a hillside graveyard. Many of the "tombstones" were statues of various Buddhist deities, and most had these flat 6' tall wood slats with writing on them fanned out behind the headstone. I'll have to look it up and post a link, I have no idea right now what it was about.
After walking the entire Philosopher's Walk, we ended up in a residential area with no idea where to go. We wandered down several streets, noticing the decided lack of blaring TVs, loud conversations and screaming children. It was weirdly quiet, which usually makes American's think something is wrong or they're missing something. After making several turns we came to a shrine that had lit lanterns outside and open gates. We strolled around the area, taking pictures of some of the lanterns, and enjoying the serenity of the place.
Back out on the street we eventually found our way to a main street and followed it and the river for a while. There seemed to be more life on the other side of the river, so we crossed over and ended up in a hotel area with different shops and restaurants. The first we tried to go into wouldn't sit a party of two, but next door was a small place with a bar and grill. When I say that I mean literally a bar that you sat at, and a grill behind it that they cooked your food on. We didn't know any Japanese, and the cook really didn't know English. So when he came to take our order, he realized there was going to be a language problem. Luckily I know the word for Beer "biru" and we ordered some drinks first. Then he was able to point at the menu and show us "Cheecken" and "Pork." So we just both said "Pork" and made the OK sign with our hands. He seemed to get that, but then came back in about 5 minutes to take our order. I just shrugged my shoulders, said "Pork?" and pointed to several spots on the menu, to which he pointed and said with difficulty "Pork Japanese Hamburger." I nodded, and Charles just said "Pork" again. We were content with whatever he was going to cook us, but I think he was afraid we would order something we didn't like. We ended up with a pork meatloaf type thing which was delicious, and a dish that took thin strips of pork loin and wrapped them around the biggest green onion I've ever seen. Both were wonderful, and after another biru we paid our bill (at least numbers work the same here!) and wandered back out into the street.
Lucky for us, each hotel has a card with a map to the hotel, and directions for taxi drivers. You basically just give the card to your taxi driver and they get you home. Our taxi guy got us back with no problem, and after catching up quickly with the other group it was off to bed.
I'm glad we took the path less traveled today, because it gave us a glimpse of the true Japan, which we probably wouldn't have seen otherwise!
Pictures of the day are here: http://flickr.com/photos/11497507@N08/sets/72157605620129320/