A Bit of Brainstorming

[girlygothic]

I'm pondering developing a new class in a pre-existing series, and have been trying to figure out what I should include. Then it hit me... Some of you here in this community might have some good ideas.

Comments

[sixtyforty]

For pattern alterations, I'd include how to get rid of princess seams. Princess seams seem to pop up in a lot of costume patterns, but they aren't period.

[girlygothic]

That really depends on what time period you're talking about, and what *your* definition of princess seams is. And no, I really don't want to get into that here. (FWIW, I'm really not trying to be argumentative here. It's just that I've participated in waaaay more "princess seams are/aren't period" discussions/arguments than I ever wanted to, and I really don't care to go there again.)

But as the focus of my classes isn't about historic sewing, but just sewing...

I'm curious what you mean by "get rid of princess seams". What would you replace them with?

[sixtyforty]

Wow, I didn't intend to spark that intense of a reaction. I'm tempted to avoid this altogether because I'm not looking for confrontation.

I was thinking of the common costume patterns that novice sewers pick up at the big box fabric stores. A lot of those bodice patterns have princess seams that aren't appropriate for the time period. Yes, I know that princess seams have been in clothing for a long time, but that's not the type of seam that shows up in these patterns.

Also, since your post focused a lot on SCA, I just assumed your classes had an emphasis in garb. But since you're not teaching historic sewing, I'm puzzled as to why you included all that information if it wasn't relevant.

[_paegan_]

But since you're not teaching historic sewing, I'm puzzled as to why you included all that information if it wasn't relevant.

I just assumed so we'd know the kind of student she's dealing with for these classes. Most *new* SCA folk are more interested in having garb "right now" and just want the basics, as apposed to the interests of beginner fashion design students or even those of more settled-in SCA folk. Even the approach would be different if it were basic sewing classes for pre-teen Girl Scouts.

Not sure if this is any help

[_paegan_]

Having endured brain-damage in 2004, I found a lot I learned in my fashion courses has become fuzzy. I would SO take your course, just to re-learn the basics I've lost. Just reading *one* of your hand-outs peaked my interest.

I do remember that in my textiles coursework, we performed a "match test" on textile sample to identify what is flammable, natural or synthetic, and the smells of the fiber burning. Though I cannot say I've actually pulled out a book of matches at JoAnns or anywhere else in the past 15 years since that class.

If I were taking a basic pattern class again, I'd like to re-learn how to change the sizing of a pattern (I'm tiny, not a lot of adult patterns in children's size 14).

Re: Not sure if this is any help

[girlygothic]

Burn testing fibers is a really useful (and often fun) technique. I don't really go into it in my Understanding Fabric class (as it can be a class all on its own), but I do briefly mention it. I also let folks know where they can find the best burn test chart I've ever seen - Threads Magazine Issue #1. I apologize to them that I can't give them copies (as that would be copyright infringement), but I do suggest several ways they might be able to get their hands on a copy.

I have to admit that I've never thought about radical pattern resizing, as it's not something that affects me. But thanks for that suggestion. I don't think I'll spend too much time on it in the class (as again that's another topic that could be a class all on its own.) But I will definitely cover it in brief. And you've now given me the idea that I should definitely cover the other approach to fitting hard-to-fit bodies - customizing a sloper to match the design of patterns.

Re: Not sure if this is any help

[_paegan_]

Oh, thank you very much for your recommendation... I'll have to get my hands on a copy.

I read through more of your handouts for the classes and now I wish, more than ever, that I could attend. It's just the thing that would refresh all the fuzzy parts!

[faerieloch]

For pattern alteration:

How to shorten/lengthen patterns and how to blend the lines back together after doing so.

How to adjust for full or small bust, how to lower bust point so it's correctly placed.

How to adjust for fuller butt (both this and the bust alterations are only half-pattern adjustments, rather than adding to all seams and come up all the time!).

How to add or take away from upper back to account for broad/narrow shoulders, and how to slash and add only at the center back to account for a rolled back (we all have one these days from slouching).

[girlygothic]

Oooh, good point about the half-pattern adjustments.

[girlygothic]

Those don't really apply to pattern alteration/drafting. But I think I might add a bit about that to my class on Understanding Fabric. Thanks for the suggestion.

[rosebee]

As a prelude/introduction to pattern alteration:

The right way to measure oneself (or someone else) to get the measurements needed to choose the right pattern size.

Back-of-pattern body measurements vs finished garment measurements.

[girlygothic]

For my Understanding Patterns class I do have some pages cut from the back of a pattern catalog that show the correct placement for taking measurements. But yeah, maybe it's time I stop procrastinating about flushing that out into a more detailed handout.

[rosebee]

What the basic info in pattern envelopes & pattern catalogs never spelled out when I was starting out was Full Bust vs High Bust.

I measured my 34DD chest at the full bust (because nothing ever mentioned that there was another way I should be measuring)... then I was baffled when my knit dress wouldn't stay on my shoulders!

(I've since learned the wonders of FBAs and starting with the smaller size my shoulders/neck/upper chest needs).

[girlygothic]

FBAs?