Mera Uthar
Mera, at 6476m (21, 247ft) is the tallest peak in Nepal that you can go for with a 'Peak Climbing' permit, and not the more costly 'Expedition' permit. Though it was easy to get up, the view from the top was unlike anything I'd ever seen.
Probably the best thing about the climb was the trek to base camp, a walk that takes you though the uninhabited Hinku Valley. Uninhabited valleys are something of a rarity in central Asia.
Uninhabited Hinku Valley.
To access the lowlands of the Hinku there's a 15,000 ft pass called the Zatr Og that you've got to climb. This little avalanche saved a bit of time on the way down.
Caroline and I drop into the valley.
Oh, Caroline. She's another mountain enthusiast from Nova Scotia. We met in Tengboche as she was on her way down from Everest Base Camp, I on my way up. We hit it off really well and decided to go climb Mera; I put off the Everest thing till later.
Caroline and I found it necessary to hire a porter, as the trek to base camp took 6 days and there was a bit of gear to deal with. He was named Lachoo (Lao-Tzu? we argue over the phoneticization)...
Though he didn't know much about climbing, in fact had to be belayed all the time, fell into a crevasse once not on belay, and in all scarcely would have passed Roskelly's Shoelace Test....he was strong and powerfully good-natured, and it was good to have him along. We had interesting gesture-sations.
I said it was because we needed to move quickly and I wanted to help out. She said it was because their terrific strength made me feel insecure. In either case, both in the larger group we began with and then later with only Caroline and Lao-Tzu, I tried to help the porters as much as possible. Here's coming down from Zatr Og.
It is for a westerner an awkward way to carry 35kg. Up is fine, but anything requiring precise movement is difficult, and a steep, slippery downhill could properly be called hell. You notice that the older porters have ox-like necks from the strain.
The last shelter (Khare) in the Hinku. The climbing face of Mera is behind; base camp is a few hours walk to the left along the ridge in the foreground.
Here Caroline takes a rest on the glacier above base camp.
Do you see why I just wanted to cry? All the time, step by step on this boring glacier to the false summit, and down from the false summit, and over the col around base camp, my tele skis were gathering dust in a soggy basement 7,000 miles away. Mera would be a really, really nice skiing mountain.
From the summit, look into the world's most populous nation.
And the world's second most populous nation. Don't look very populated, do they?
Sometimes, when the trundling rocks are too small, you have to take matters into your own hands.
As I think I've mentioned, the climb was not an interesting one. Caroline and I agreed; but for the view and the chance to get near 6500m, there isn't any real draw. But I was pleased with the experience. Any time in the mountains is a good time, and as someone looking to bigger things--Denali would be tight when my fingers are better, and I hear that Cho Oyo, 8100m, is terrific skiing--it was just delicious to see that body handled the altitude well. Summiting a week into the trek, on what is commonly called the 'HAPE/HACE suicide itinerary', I felt nothing more than a little breathless. I even slept like a baby (when allowed) at our high camp at 18,500. So it was welcome news all the way.
The last pictures are: Caroline fixed line, summit, pass between central and north summits, and the flats above high camp
