Sep 06, 2011 03:10
ok, the first two pre-ambles on platform selection were really just to illuminate WHY I chose the 1911, for I am a firmly entrenched believer. Now let's look at what the 1911 needs to DO to be a really polished as perfect chips-are-down, power-is-out TEOTWAWKI ZPAW MutantZombieBiker-bustin blaster:
Steel or Titanium Frame:
Steel is the strongest of the three frame materials. In my opinion that really says enough for it. All 1911 Mfgs make a steel frame. It's the way the gun was designed to be and the 100 year old 1911 pistols that are still shooting are of the steel frame variety. THAT BEING SAID : you will be carrying a gun more than you will be shooting a gun, and ounces equal pounds. Titanium frames are available from Caspian and offer 75% of the strength at 37% the weight. I'd say a 75% strong 1911 MIGHT actually be strong enough. I have not yet had the chance to shoot one, but considering the popularity and success of aluminum framed 1911s, I'd say this is probably a viable alternative. If lighter weight is what you want, split the difference and get Ti, not Aluminum. I prefer a non-ramped frame because it is more common and one should be able to find/scrounge non-ramped barrels easier than ramped, which are uncommon AND come in two varieties. Despite the fact that i prefer a weapon mounted light, I would choose a NON-railed frame and have a Dawson Lightspeed Rail added, though they are now discontinued. a Railed Frame would be second choice, a plane frame third.
Carbon Steel Slide :
The slide is the highest impact part of the gun, and should be made of the strongest material possible. period. A lowered/flared ejection port is almost standard these days, but should be considered the first step in making a fully reliable 1911. Dovetail front and rear sight cuts are critical, WHICH cut, less so. Front cocking serrations are personal preference, certainly detract from the looks of the gun, but also certainly aid in manipulating the slide. I prefer them, though i prefer a much wider serration than most. relieved slide fronts, ala, Browning Hi Power have become the fad recently, and although i see the benefit in assisting purchase without serrations, and agree that it LOOKS cool, I think taking material and weight off the front of the gun is stupid. this will make recoil snappier and the area around the bushing weaker.
High Quality Barrel:
a Non-ramped, lands-and-grooves rifles barrel. Storm Lake, Schuemann, Kart, and Bar-Sto are the Barrels I recommend. I like Schuemann for some of the tricky minor features they do, but those aren't necessary for a functioning pistol.
Slide Stop:
The slide stop is probably the single most important small component. It holds the barrel to the frame via the barrel link. it must be fairly precisely fit in order to ensure a solid and consistent lock-up. The Slide Stop is also the release for the slide during reloads and malfunction clearances. I prefer a slide stop that is extended though not elongated. Shooters with smaller hands may require an elongated slide stop, which are available from Wilson. For regular sized hands, the Slide Stop I prefer is 10-8 performance, for their attention to ergonomics and very durable construction.
More Later!
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